not since I changed the front wheels to fix the drifting left.Have you had it back up on the scales since?
Ah I seenot since I changed the front wheels to fix the drifting left.
I'm currently making a set of scale pad levellers so I can quickly and accurately level the scales rather than just stack bits of wood/tiles
then rebalance her
Invest in a 12mm drill bit... and a 10,2mm drill bit to go with that M12 tapmarked the cuts along the tubes
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all tubes cut and filed
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clamped the pieces onto a flat block to ensure all the frames are level and square
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frames all tacked
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finish welding the frame joints
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drilled the 10mm holes
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don't have a 12mm drill for the thread so tapped it to m12
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fit the nuts to the coach bolts
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screw the bolts onto the frame
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tacked in place
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after welding the nuts, the thread will be slightly stiff from distortion so I remove the bolts and retap the threads to realign it
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4 scale levellers made, just need to cut and weld the plates onto them to finish
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and this is how they'll be stored within the platform scales box
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bad or not, it worked.Still bad engineering practice... although on thin metal you can get away with it...
when I'm adjusting the springs during balancing on these scales/levellers, the corner that I'm accessing is gonna be jacked up or on axle stands anyway for removing the wheel to access the springs and unload the spring seat to make adjustments easierPlease also use axle stands or wheels or something if you are going to be under the car while its on those
4kg/mm... is 224lb/in and 3kg/mm is 168lb/in springs. That's what I'd consider a medium setup. You could go up to 300lb/in max on the front and 250lb/in rear for track days.Maybe I could try out the bad tyres initially, see if they're stable enough. If its too unstable then I'd have to swap to the good set and reconfigure.
Currently on the original softest setting 4/3kg f/r springs.
Good old 'pots'. They give back very complex raw data. And can somewhat be a minefield of informationas mentioned in ur thread, I tried stiffening the front coil at castle combe with 6kg/mm or 336lb/in but resulted in more exit power-understeer.
Its now currently on 4/3kg f/r and will test the damper settings from soft to hard.
can't affor or bothered to buy another stiffer rear spring yet unless it's really needed.
if only I could fit some suspension travel sensors and write a datalog program to rec it for detailed analysis.
ah interesting. something to research into implementing. soon perhaps if I could create a 3D visualiser to see what the suspension is actually doing at a specific time and position on the track.Good old 'pots'. They give back very complex raw data. And can somewhat be a minefield of information
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That's 4 linear suspension potentiometers (only 2 on screen) with an evo4 data logger. On a leisurely daily drive on an apparent smooth road. Measuring damper speed, g-force lateral and longitudinal and height
I'd say above 300lb/in you experienced understeer, earlier braking and reduced turn in?
Increase preload on your rears to determine if a stiffer spring would be necessary
The pots give you that information in those series of graphs.ah interesting. something to research into implementing. soon perhaps if I could create a 3D visualiser to see what the suspension is actually doing at a specific time and position on the track.
tis abit like a detailed virtual action replay u see on Rfactor or gran turismo or racing games.
turn in is fine and I usually trail brake to further help it but its mid-exit where it was understeering.
increasing rear preload would just poke the rear higher up won't it?
Looking at it again a compromise of both would be bestindeed lowering the RR/FL or increasing the RL woulda balanced the CW but the rear springs a pita to adjust and was at the cba state.
the springs r more less setup for the good set of tyres so once I pop those on it'll be balanced.
yep the laser aligner is for checking all the wheels r pointing dead straightDid you make the wheel adaptors for measuring toe in/out?
yeah its really just set up for the fresh tyres.Looking at it again a compromise of both would be best
But as you say its setup for your fresh tyres
Depends if you're in a cba mood again
yep the laser aligner is for checking all the wheels r pointing dead straight
making the unidirectional swivel plate
making the laser alignment blocks
how the laser is calibrated
illustration of alignment method
and actually aligning the wheels