photo of left side engine when battery is removed k12

#1
Hey anyone be so helpful in showing me a photo of the engine from the left side below the battery on RHD k12. When I removed my battery today I find something odd.
Want to compare what I see in my engine bay only have forgotten to take the picture when reinstalling a recharged battery eventually when I get chance I will edit this with a photo of what I'm looking at its very low in the engine bay and I have looked around on the net for something that could explain without any joy so far.
 
#2
This is where im looking it says in the haynes manual that this is a gearbox filler/level plug.
As you can see its not there.
My question now is where could i find one of these online. Or should i get one salvage?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#3
You will be pleased to know that it is NOT somewhere to screw a filler plug in, but just a blind tapped hole, probably used to secure to a fixture during the machining of the casting. You do however appear to be missing a gearbox breather pipe.......
I just checked mine , see the picture below...
 
#7
Okay so I ordered the part 32197N directly from Nissan. Thinking it would be the complete kit. Picked it up yesterday and its 32007N.
This is okay cause going to get a proper rad hose of about 10 to 13 mm
Once its installed should be okay to run through some puddles without flooding the gearbox :D

(edit) this part wont even fit properly so I have had to find something what will fit properly awaiting the barbed hose fitting should be neater than this that was ment to be the whole set of parts in kit form.
bv.jpg
 
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#8
Back to the battery. Looking at solar trickle charger for keeping the battery topped up does anyone know if this will need to be ODB or would the cigar lighter connector be of use
 
#9
Hey again I'm trying to find out where the fuse may be for the rear heated window.
Below is the in cabin fuse box.
The light does not illuminate and the window does not clear.
P_20181025_115334.jpg
P_20181025_115155.jpg
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#10
Well the good news is that I can tell you exactly where the heated rear screen fuse is.................the bad news is that they (2 fuses 45 & 46) are in the 'intelligent' power distribution module (along with all of the lighting fuses :eek:) underneath the N/S headlight which is a real bastard to get to. You have to totally remove the headlight then unclip the module under it then lift and invert it (with all the cables still connected) to get at the fuses....:mad:
 
#11
Will wait until I need to remove the headlight for something really important then Hopefully it will be really windy like when I removed the battery.:LOL: Probably a good idea for me to test to see if there is any voltage at the window end first. (y)
 
#13
So I'm looking at this item next as part of the heated rear windscreen my question is about the two lower buttons Heated screen / Air-con. Are they supposed to be just lights or buttons?
They don't seem to press but the rear windscreen one is listed as a button in the Haynes manual.
Would fitting another unit in place for this item be plug and play.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#19
:D My face when I start and my face when their is no result at end of each days tests:mad:
Finally found a guide that may help with this. This may also be of help to other who experience this problem in the future.

Repair-a-Rear-Window-Defroster

fixing-a-heated-rear-window
If you have no light on the dash when you depress the heated rear window switch then the problem is nothing to do with the physical state of the element on the window, but to do with the power distribution to it........
 
#20
There is no light as yet on the dash and the buttons are fix won't press in.
A.c. Lights up only.
I'm fixing the tab on wind screen atm. Because it was not connected fully on drivers side that appears to be the positive wire.

I do think that it might be the fuse but have to have the tab in place and order mini fuses before taking a look at the fuse box.
Just seems like a good idea to have the tab in place first. So waiting for a decent type of solder that will hold it in place.

Thanks for letting me know the fuse size
 
#21
Okay so I tried again today. After soldering the tab back in place. Removed battery then looked at the buttons. Both were sticking.
So I pulled them back and then when I press them now they turn on. However still stick.
No need for the fuses or removing the headlight now.
Still need to see the demister in action.

Would I need to find the part number via the console panel. When replacing this item.
Found one on eBay for reasonable price
Just not sure if they will connect.
Removing the unit seemed tricky so I have left it in place for now.
 
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#22
Managed to finally get the breather pipe into place. Just forgot to take a picture.
Sadly it is not an original or stock part.
However it is a cool first mod. Will upload a shot in the new year sometime.
 
#24
Next one would be the inside door handles/armrest. They look so dented on the drivers side. passenger one is almost like new still.
I am thinking about a re cover on both.
Finding the right fabric or material for a door handle/armrest is on my to do list.
Not sure why a hard plastic was not used that's what's on most modern vehicles.
Was originally going to wrap them. Then got the idea grip in windy conditions might not be desirable.
Any how I will consider making a blog to show how to upholster for those suffering from dents or scratches.
Hopefully the community won't be too offended with recycled materials.
 
#25
Hey anyone know if fog lights can fit on this bumper the style that are in the bottom center grille. The other option would be a wire grill.
cut.jpg
 
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#26
Can anyone shed some light on info about this part.
My concern is that the the air duct has tape over it nearest the airbox I'm assuming this part may be broken going to take a picture tomorrow.
Plan is to replace with an original part if one can be purchased.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#27
They all do that, bloody poor design. The bayonet action that is supposed to hold it in is not man enough due to the weight of the expansion chamber/silencer in the duct. I redesigned mine to improve the air flow and prevent this constant disconnection. see HERE
 
#30
Yea I already am aware that's why I been searching for a original part because I want to try and keep everything stock if possible.
I'm sure that your redesigned air duct works a lot better than the one I have installed at present haha :LOL:
For me power loss wouldn't be of interest or extra noise and not looking to increase power any as it pulls well.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#31
Yea I already am aware that's why I been searching for a original part because I want to try and keep everything stock if possible
The reason that the tape is there is because the design of the original part(s) is not fit for purpose. The filter tray which the air inlet spigot goes into has a bayonet slot in it to retain the spigot. With two plastic parts that are subjected to vibration and movement as the engine rocks on the mounts even brand new matching parts will not last long before they keep on disconnecting, due also to the weight of the resonant chamber in the inlet hose, hence the tape to hold them together.........My solution replaces the offending joint with an easily disconnected clamped one and at the same time improves the potential airflow, and still looks like it might be an OEM supply.....
 
#33
Alrighty, So I'm trying to figure out how to get a look at inside the gear shifter. I know its under the boot but how can I access a view. Reason there is side to side play which I am rather disappointed with (my hopes are that I can some how tighten something up and get Rid of the side to side play)??
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2773006345294.png

On nissan4u calls this item the console box (first image)
Edit -
I have googled for more info on this. Don't seem to find all that much helpful notes. Other than a diagram or two..
Would be real cool if it was just a simple bushing or some cable needs replacing.

Here is a link showing the side to side wobble
this link may be handy I'm going to check this tomorrow and see if these are secure properly or not
 
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#34
Hey anyone know if fog lights can fit on this bumper the style that are in the bottom center grille. The other option would be a wire grill.
View attachment 60754
I fitted mine as it came without. You need a bracket for each side and the outer trim clips into the brackets. The end part of the grill area of the bumper has to be completely cut away for installation. The wires are usually already there for the bulbs,but the stalks have to be early (2002-2005) k12 ones,or wire in a universal switch as I did
peuf_20140801_7.jpeg
IMG_20160703_161935316.jpeg


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#35
I fitted mine as it came without. You need a bracket for each side and the outer trim clips into the brackets. The end part of the grill area of the bumper has to be completely cut away for installation. The wires are usually already there for the bulbs,but the stalks have to be early (2002-2005) k12 ones,or wire in a universal switch as I did View attachment 62328 View attachment 62329

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Have looked at Drl led fogs instead. To fit in between the grill slots and ones with indicators circuitry they probably don't last very long.

Your fogs look good btw. When I find some cheepy Clio ones. I will be banging some of those on for sure

Today I'm just touching up the stone chips best I can. Will see how that goes should be okay all I know is I got frost bite in my hand

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#36
Yeah the bolt in DRLs are a bit touch and go. Out of 12 I had 6 left working withing a few months. Sadly that car is long gone. I sold the fog lights and brackets and covers to Abi Whitty. She may still have them if you search her on Facebook.

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#38
Yeah the bolt in DRLs are a bit touch and go. Out of 12 I had 6 left working withing a few months. Sadly that car is long gone. I sold the fog lights and brackets and covers to Abi Whitty. She may still have them if you search her on Facebook.

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Will have a look later on and ask thanks for letting me know mate

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#40
Wanting to replace the alloy wheels with steel set. Does anyone know if they would fit with out any modification.
My hopes are for a 14 to 15 set.





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The base models came with 14" steel wheels. Clio,Megan and scenic ones are a direct fit if you can't find k12 ones. K11 ones won't fit,neither will Almera ones of any year.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#43
Wanting to replace the alloy wheels with steel set. Does anyone know if they would fit with out any modification.
My hopes are for a 14 to 15 set.





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Yea I was looking at 14" ones mostly and noticed 15" then thought the tyres might be too much for the wheel well on those.

Thanks for letting me know the spare is 14" so that makes sense those would be compatible. View attachment 62402

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Well my K12 came with 16" x 6J wheels, with 185-50-16 tyres as standard


so fitting in the wheel well of a K12 is no problem, and with a bit of ingenuity a full size spare can be fitted in the spare wheel well....see HERE
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#44
Spare is: NISSAN MICRA 1.2 K12 - SPARE WHEEL AND TYRE 105/70/14



My Micra has 205-50-16, rim width 7.5, with lowering springs. No problems.

Couldn't wait to get rid of that Mika, apart from the obvious potential handling problems, the mismatch of 16" wheels and a 14" spare will really bugger up the ABS sensing, if it was fitted on the car, so hence the acquisition of a matching 16" alloy as a spare......
 
#45
Couldn't wait to get rid of that Mika, apart from the obvious potential handling problems, the mismatch of 16" wheels and a 14" spare will really bugger up the ABS sensing, if it was fitted on the car, so hence the acquisition of a matching 16" alloy as a spare......
Very true John! With 'odd' size tire your dash will light up like Christmas three, ABS, traction control and brake warning indicators are on.

I have had, three flats with Harley's during 1994-2018, two flats with Camaro during 1996-2018 and zero with Micra during 2014-present, so far.

And instructions tell: DO NOT exceed 80km/h-50ml/h with temp spare.
Space saver spare is like manual 'Limp Mode' for vehicle...

With my flat history, I personally feel that I don't have need for full size spare, or I have been just lucky...?! :unsure:
 
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#46
What I ment to say was.
I'm going to use them so I don't need to keep the car on stands as I paint the rest of my wheels. Also that I might run them permanently or as least as winter wheels.

Space saver spare wheels lost in translation maybe ?

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
#50
What do you guys think about smoked rear light clusters. I may try the tinted wrap if they look any good.


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Aesthetically they look great :cool:, BUT I'm not in favour of anything that reduces light output and visibility of something that is primarily a safety feature. The same goes for tinting headlights and don't get me started on the OEM design fad of putting tiny LED direction indicators right next to headlights, so that they cant be easily seen when the head light is on, or at the rear burying them in the centre of a light cluster so that again their illumination is obscured by high intensity brake lights that surround them:mad:. The latter wouldn't be quite so bad if people actually used the indicators BEFORE starting to brake for the manouver:rolleyes:............
 
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