Patriotic Micra Blog

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Paul Smith

Paul Smith

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Paul Smith

Paul Smith

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If i'm totally honest i'm not sure how much came off that head, I took it in and asked 1.5mm so i had some left if the future ever needed it, but when i went to collect the head he'd taken everything off of it. So i was worried but it seems ok so far but i've not driven more than 200metres in her. She idles really well smooth and sounds nice.
 

frank

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that little square plinth is just over 1mm below the headface paul so if the plinth was machined too by 1/2 a mm, then 1.5mm skim eh

 

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Low Rider

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Oooh, progress, cool!

Out of interest, what's with the second exhaust valve on cylinder number one? Looks like it's got a big recess in it....

Picture 9 shows exhaust valve marks on pistons 1 & 4, did you have a valve piston clash at some point Paul?
 
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Paul Smith

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The valve was replaced some time ago as i bent it with a dodgey gear change from 4th to 3rd. it was meant to go in to fifth but a fast gear change and a slip caused months of pain lol.

As for the valve markings in the pistons i thought maybe i had but as i was cleaning them up there were markings on all the pistons in the same places. If they have all collided at some point i've been exceptionally lucky.
 

Low Rider

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Ah i see, I would say you've been lucky then as there are no marks there on stock pistons ;) hehe

We'll see performance figures in about a month when we hike up the compression, so perhaps we can compare, (we'll still be on a standard head though) ;)
 
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Paul Smith

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Ok a bit miffed now, she is back together modified the air box slightly fitted it all nice tight started her runs, revs and idles like a dream.

Now the nightmare - She is blowing dirty dark smoke which i kind of expected as she is running rich, but she is also blowing the dreaded blue smoke. I thought it'd burn off as we put a dribble with the pistons as you do to stop any scoring on the initial start up but its not clearing. I have tried a few times now including tonight where I stood out there for about 30 mins gently easing her up to arround 3.5k rpm but it showed no sign of letting up. Any suggestions as I'm at the stage where I really do not want to take the engine apart again GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.:down:
 
Ok a bit miffed now, she is back together modified the air box slightly fitted it all nice tight started her runs, revs and idles like a dream.

Now the nightmare - She is blowing dirty dark smoke which i kind of expected as she is running rich, but she is also blowing the dreaded blue smoke. I thought it'd burn off as we put a dribble with the pistons as you do to stop any scoring on the initial start up but its not clearing. I have tried a few times now including tonight where I stood out there for about 30 mins gently easing her up to arround 3.5k rpm but it showed no sign of letting up. Any suggestions as I'm at the stage where I really do not want to take the engine apart again GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.:down:

interesting what is that black stuff on the last photo on the mating surface? as replied to your question thread it could be dodgy valve stem seals or something. it does happen. although don't it rip the head off it might not be that :laugh:. either way if you have had the head done by the pro's you can get it sorted for free if it is that (Y)
 
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Paul Smith

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Black stuff on the mating surface, where abouts I can't see any?

True the head could possibly be done for free however the company that did the head is in scotland and the head was off the car when they did this so still a ######, I could possibly use the tool and change the oil stem sills from the top, but need a guaranteed way to check this.
 
yeah i think you can do them this way ive only ever needed to do them while the heads off tho cause i usually clean everything ect at the same time. you will need to fire compressed air into the bore to stop the valves dropping down. although you probably know that :laugh:

the shaded area on the last pic it might be just me or the pic or something but it looks like black stuff on the mating surface. :confused:
 

Low Rider

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Ah i see, I would say you've been lucky then as there are no marks there on stock pistons ;) hehe

We'll see performance figures in about a month when we hike up the compression, so perhaps we can compare, (we'll still be on a standard head though) ;)

Just a quick shot, what we have should be identical to your setup Paul with the only exception that we have mounted the bodies the other way up in order to allow easy balance adjustments on car via the linkages.
 

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My newly built duratec used to smoke ( blue) was the running in process as bores got glazed. Was told that had run it to gently and only drove it hard after I had changed the oil to proper oil then this was too late. Hope you get it sorted soon. Love the idea of throttle bodies or carbs. Airbox looks really effective. I have the standard version for standard injection. With the fan on the rollers pointed at the filter, was a 10 bhp difference in power when removing filter altogether and sucking hot air from the engine bay
 
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Paul Smith

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Will perform a wet test this morning now i'm on leave from work, and start to eliminate some things. Although there is no sign of any compression issues through the range. What I have got to remember as well is this car has sat stripped, knocked about, built up, lined up but has not run since about January so i should expect some issues. To be honest i'd like to try a bit of a test drive to see if a little momentum starts to clear her but i am not to sure if that'll be a good idea really. lol.

Low Rider, that engine is looking good and a good idea with the bodies what tool do you use to balance the bodies?

Thank you for everyones help so far
 

Low Rider

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That's how it was earlier in the week, it's due to be stripped down next week.

We use a set of Davida vacuum gauges to set them up on the car, http://www.rsworkshopequipment.co.uk/assets/images/products/vacuumGauge-1.jpg. Although I think that option will be a little hard for you since I can only see one vacuum point installed on your inlet manifold. You cannot see it in our pic but we have one vacuum point on each inlet runner which are coupled together and linked to the fuel pressure regulator.

Makes thinks SOOO simple and quick to do, you just plum in each vacuum point and adjust as necessary. Takes around 5mins to set up the car.
 
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Paul Smith

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Cool, your bodies are light my motorbike carbs you can adjust seperately, but your right my bodies only have the one pipe. I have seen volkswagon use a thing called a "snail" to adjust theres i'll use one of those.

I have done a compression test and tried a few different setups.

Cyl 1 - 17 psi
Cyl 2 - 17 psi
Cyl 3 - 17 psi
Cyl 4 - 17.5 psi

I swapped the plugs out for some others i had around which were bosch super 4's and as a result the smoke has all but a very tiny occassional amount cleared. I believe the last plugs which were NGK BCP7ES plugs are breaking down and are running to hot. What I need to do is decide what plugs i am going to need and purchase those.
 

Low Rider

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Yeah most people use a syncrometer but we don't have enough room between the inlets and the bulkhead to fit one in, we can also see all cylinders at once which is handy with the throttle linkages Jenvey use, where final tightening on the adjusters can effect other cylinders, so it's handy to be able to see vacuum in real time.

Compression results look good, interesting re: the plugs. We use the BKR7E-11 that Matt sells....however even they are still a touch hot, so we may opt for something colder when we hike up the compression. Will see how things turn out on the dyno and after a plug inspection...
 
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Paul Smith

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HaHa today was the day she lives and returns to the road

MOT'd
Taxed
Insured

Do some miles in her then rolling road here we come
 

Low Rider

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Cool, you're doing better than I am. Still waiting for pistons rings that are on back order :(
 
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Paul Smith

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Hi

A bit of time since the last update. I have had a few issues to say the least. She smoked a little but after a good blat she started to smoke a lot, i'm talking full scale clouds out the back which led me to the conclusion something wasn't quite right lol.
So after a few days of deliberation I came to the conclusion i didn't have massive amounts of time to strip her back again so decided to rip the lump out and drop another one in for the time being. This would allow me the chance to keep using her whilst i stripped the other one back.
I purchased a 1275cc cg13 and dropped her in with no major difficulties. I had to swap the fly wheel clutch and gear box over due to the sensors for the omex. Swapped the bodies on to the new lump and in she went. I haven't had chance to strip the other lump back yet but i am a little worried its a cracked block but we will see.

The new engine is running nicely although a bit rich which is a mapping issue, but already i am getting itchy fingers about putting my awesome head and cams on. This new engine although a smaller CC actually is feeling a better engine than the 1348cc? This could be a development issue by nissan but either way we will see how this new engine continues to pan out.

The engine swap took me about 16 hrs all in which may sound a lot for some of you but i had to do this around college and 2 jobs lol so i was actaully impressed with my self lol
 

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