New water pump and overheating problem.

Mrthc

Mrthc

Hello everibody.
that's my first problem .
today i' ve changed a water pump and i put the coolant regularly (flush the Rad and saw rusty water going out)and make e little trip.
After a few km i saw the arrow in the Red level so i've stopped the car, opened the wood and saw coolant leaking from the expansion tank .
Upper hose (means that the thermostat work, right?) was hot insted the below was cold.
Maybe i ve to tighten more the water pump belt?
If possible that my rad ha clogged?
Why the coolant goes out from the expansion tank?
Sorry for my English and i hope you'll understand what i wrote.
Ciao

Sent from my SM-J500FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Sounds like an air lock in the cooling system..............Run the engine on tick over, with the rad cap off and wait till air bubbles stop appearing in the header tank. Top up coolant, replace rad cap and try again....
 
Why was the water pump replaced, was it leaking? Also does the lower part of the radiator get hot?
 
Just got an airlock matey. Let it idle with the cap off and help it out by squeezing the pipes burping the air out. Took about 10 minutes if that last weekend from completely empty on my 1.0


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RYB said:
Just got an airlock matey. Let it idle with the cap off and help it out by squeezing the pipes burping the air out. Took about 10 minutes if that last weekend from completely empty on my 1.0


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I' ve just done but still having the Lower hose and rad cold.


Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
When the upper hose ha hot does it means that is working?
Doesn'it?
I have a thermostat inside .
I' ve changed it 2 years ago with the thermostat housing.

Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
If the engine is overheating, and coolant is leaking out of the expansion tank, that usually points to a leaking head gasket/cracked cylinder head unfortunately mate
 
I'd perhaps try flushing the radiator, you could do this in the car by disconnecting both radiator hoses and putting a garden hose or similar in the top and running water through see what comes out. If you don't get much this way remove the radiator and try putting the hose in the bottom, shake it about as it might be blocked and filled with crud. If you can get it to flow easily and clear that's good if not you may need a new radiator. If it flows easily from the start and there's not much crud it the problem may be elsewhere.

Fill with water until you get it running ok as it will save buying coolant all the time unless it's going to freeze overnight or something.
 
Thank you Fuzzy hair-man i really want to di that.
Morning i'll do.
I have put the garden hose from the top but when i'll remove the rad i try on the Lower hole.
First time some water and rust cane out.
Let see tomorrow.
I want to change the termostat too because i tought that dont open fully.

Thanks for the support.


Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
sounds like rust debris from a corroded steel coolant return pipe behind the engine has blocked the radiator (hot upper pipe, stone cold lower pipe, overheating).
coolant or bubbles continuously gushing over the expansion tank, especially when revving, could be blown HG (letting exhaust force coolant out of the system) as a result of warpage from overheating.
rad fan always on and gauge always red because the sensors in the head say the circulating coolant is HOT and the rad ain't cooling it.

my advise is
-drain coolant,
-disconnect both upper & lower pipes,
-remove the radiator, tilt upside down and flush it backwards to unclog it till the water gushes out freely. peep inside the top hose port to check inside the radiator is clear. look through the outside fins against the sky and check most of the core is clear/unblocked.
-remove the thermostat and check it opens/closes at 82C



-while your there, remove both temperature sensors and test their ohms/degC are within this graph
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-119#post-704079

-flush the block with a garden hose in the thermostat housing and draining out the coolant return pipe
-reassemble, fill with coolant
-leave cap open, start engine
-bleed system by squeezing the top hose to shake out bubbles, keep the radiator brimmed, transfer excess to the reservoir if needed, till the thermostat fully opens at 82C and the fan engages twice. close cap and keep reservoir at max level.
 
pollyp said:
flush the block with a garden hose in the thermostat housing and draining out the coolant return pipe
Click to expand...

Hi Pollyp

When you say "fash the block..." you mean after i reinstall the rad and all the hoses whitout the thermostat and flush like that, it's correct?
Or just put the water on the bloch ( termostat housing ) without reinstall nothing?
I hope you understand what i mean.
Grazie.
PS I read one of your post about your TurboMicra...You are such a genius . Complimenti.
 
Mrthc said:
Hi Pollyp

When you say "fash the block..." you mean after i reinstall the rad and all the hoses whitout the thermostat and flush like that, it's correct?
Or just put the water on the bloch ( termostat housing ) without reinstall nothing?
I hope you understand what i mean.
Grazie.
PS I read one of your post about your TurboMicra...You are such a genius . Complimenti.
Click to expand...

aye leave out the thermostat cos that only opens at 88C,
fit the empty thermostat housing, top pipe, bottom pipe,
flush water down the top pipe > through engine > out the lower pipe.

reverse flush the radiator upside down separately.

reinstall & bleed.

:) thanks, my turbo micra's blog (kasandra) is quite a long read and a long journey. glad you like it
 
pollyp said:
aye leave out the thermostat cos that only opens at 88C,
fit the empty thermostat housing, top pipe, bottom pipe,
flush water down the top pipe > through engine > out the lower pipe.

reverse flush the radiator upside down separately.

reinstall & bleed.

:) thanks, my turbo micra's blog (kasandra) is quite a long read and a long journey. glad you like it
Click to expand...

This job must be done with the engine off or on?
Another think: i've to remove completly the coolant sensor (both) or i can measure the ohm without removing them?

Nice name Kasandra or Cassandra in Italian ( remember me a movie's name "Kasandra crossing" and of course a Greek mythological figure)
 
Mrthc said:
This job must be done with the engine off or on?
Another think: i've to remove completly the coolant sensor (both) or i can measure the ohm without removing them?

Nice name Kasandra or Cassandra in Italian ( remember me a movie's name "Kasandra crossing" and of course a Greek mythological figure)
Click to expand...

flush cooling system with the engine off and cool.

sensors need to be removed so you can submerge them in a container of hot water to compare their resistance with the thermometer reading of water whilst cooling down.

her reg plate was KSG so the nearest name I thought of from the acronym was Kasandra, although as you said the proper spelling is Cassandra but I just stuck with the K. tis a luvely name (it's also the name of the girlfriend in Waynes World, where I first heard of it lol)
 
Hello everibody.
May i put this one instead the old one?
It's quite different and the New one came with the gasket.

Another think is :
How can i remove the radiator?
I pull out the fan but i can't find any bolts. ..
0cd349ea1a14e2374cf80478fc8a1cb1.jpg
4a11a89cc5b7b486f6d201910b4a111f.jpg
2038f48dea094f2e71d60b9dca1dc99e.jpg


Sent from my SM-J500FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
check the copper back of the wax casing is stamped 82C and you'd need to cut that excess sprung disc off the backside so it clears the thermostat housing.

https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-95#post-633626

radiator is held by that top panel. remove all the bolts attached to this top panel such as 4 bolts at the top, unbolt the bonnet latch and the middle support beam, unbolt the shield panel to the left of the radiator. then simply lift the top panel up off the rad
 
d2461566a057e864499464991e758dda.jpg

I'm confused.
I did't see those 4 bolts in the rad.
I have , like in the picture, 2 "rubbed surround" and no bolts at all.
Now is raining so I stopped the job.
I remove the 2 sensors but i don't know i can / what i have to measure.
volt or/and resistance?
Boooohhhhh.....

Sent from my SM-J500FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
theres 2 bolts either side of them mounts, can see of them me self in the pic,

did ya even look at the link i posted o_O
 
Thanks Andy.
I felt stupid when was looking for the top bolts. ..
Now the next "challenge" will be try to understand how measure the 2 sensors whit the tester the Volt and Amphere.
I saw the Polly's post but i don't know how to do.
There is a sort of tutorial?
Grazie a tutti.

Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
pollyp said:
sounds like rust debris from a corroded steel coolant return pipe behind the engine has blocked the radiator (hot upper pipe, stone cold lower pipe, overheating).
coolant or bubbles continuously gushing over the expansion tank, especially when revving, could be blown HG (letting exhaust force coolant out of the system) as a result of warpage from overheating.
rad fan always on and gauge always red because the sensors in the head say the circulating coolant is HOT and the rad ain't cooling it.

my advise is
-drain coolant,
-disconnect both upper & lower pipes,
-remove the radiator, tilt upside down and flush it backwards to unclog it till the water gushes out freely. peep inside the top hose port to check inside the radiator is clear. look through the outside fins against the sky and check most of the core is clear/unblocked.
-remove the thermostat and check it opens/closes at 82C



-while your there, remove both temperature sensors and test their ohms/degC are within this graph
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-119#post-704079

-flush the block with a garden hose in the thermostat housing and draining out the coolant return pipe
-reassemble, fill with coolant
-leave cap open, start engine
-bleed system by squeezing the top hose to shake out bubbles, keep the radiator brimmed, transfer excess to the reservoir if needed, till the thermostat fully opens at 82C and the fan engages twice. close cap and keep reservoir at max level.
Click to expand...

I have tried to measure the ohm (20k) about the 2 sensors.
I start whit the first ( the small one) whit 7.80 cold and decreasing with hot water.
The Big one start 1.72 and decrease with hot water.
Is correct?

Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
frank said:
the single wire one just goes to the gauge, the 2 wire one is the ecu one, 2500 ohms @ 20deg c, and 300 ohms @ 80deg c
Click to expand...
Probably i make a mistake when i took the measure.
Something wrong with it...


Inviato dal mio SM-J500FN utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Hello guys.
I do it.
Thank you for your support and help.
The responsable was the thermostat ( put New one 82 deegres) and now the rad is ok ( is "hot" all over the surface) and the fan kick in and after a minute turn off.
Ps i have just the idle low how show in the picture.
How can i improve till 750 rpm?
ffdef29e30ffc351a0e07259828439d6.jpg


Sent from my SM-J500FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Mrthc said:
Hello guys.
I do it.
Thank you for your support and help.
The responsable was the thermostat ( put New one 82 deegres) and now the rad is ok ( is "hot" all over the surface) and the fan kick in and after a minute turn off.
Ps i have just the idle low how show in the picture.
How can i improve till 750 rpm?
ffdef29e30ffc351a0e07259828439d6.jpg


Sent from my SM-J500FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Click to expand...

37920[1].jpg


looking at the rear left of the throttle body under the airbox is the black allen key bleed screw. assuming the distributor timing is original and still synced with the crank,
warmup engine, loosen allen to bleed air/raise idle, tighten to lower idle.
 
Hello guys.
Today i've tried to improve the idle .
When i put the key loosen allen to raise idle nothing happened.
Looking better i saw black allen key that was " disintegrate ".
Plastic?
What may l do?
It's still possible " working" on it or not?
Thanks...


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pollyp said:
it looks like there's a slot feature across the face of it so maybe see if a big flat-head short screwdriver can fit & turn it?
Click to expand...
As soon is possible i'll check.
The problem is that now ( the thirst 3 pic was before the job) is worth so i have to look if the slot still there.
Thanks.

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Mrthc said:
As soon is possible i'll check.
The problem is that now ( the thirst 3 pic was before the job) is worth so i have to look if the slot still there.
Thanks.

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Click to expand...

remember it's plastic so don't force/break it.
if it's quite seized, you may have to remove the TB for better access, work at removing that plastic screw, replace if needed, clean & relube thread, refit, retune
 
Mrthc said:
Can you use a synonymous for sized ( i'm not sure to understand)
What is the meaning about seized?
Is possible to buy only the bleed screw?


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Click to expand...

I'd first clean out all of that corrosion/dirt out of the visible hole with wd40/wirebrush cos it can obstruct the screw and maybe why it rounded off.
if the allen hole is very rounded, you can try tapping in a slightly larger Torx key to bite & grab into the plastic screw or use a flat-head that fits onto the slot head.

once removed, if the screw head is damaged you could either cut a new flat-head slot on the screw with a dremel, get a spare screw from the scrapyard or dealership (expensive), or replace the throttle body as a last resort.
 

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