New Throttle Body

Today Im going to fit a new Throttle Body as the car is still running rough and nearly cut out again on the better half yesterday, I have an ordinary Gasket that was supplied with the part and also a "Therma - Tec gasket that is supposed to reduce the heat transfer into the TB. I bought the Nissan Consult but the software that came with it freezes my Laptop so is no good at all, So Ive no idea how I will set the TB up if its not pre calibrated, any ideas will be most welcome...
 
have you tried this steve ?
i think you only have to set the tps voltage
Ive not frank,, Im not too good techie wise, Ive just had a look and it says I need to have some net thing or something...lol, I want to re set the timing aswell but have no tacho, Ive read a bit about Nissan Data Scan ? $51 from America but as I say Im not techie minded. What I have found is a very small screw lodged in a groove near the TB, I think its out of the tps as I can only see one screw holding it in... Ive never been near it, Maybe the young RAC guy did something to it and dropped it... How is the voltage set without Consult ... these cars are weird to work on...lol..
 

frank

Club Member
i think the .net thing was for old windows 98 or whatever steve, i found it very easy to use
and the tps voltages can be set with a volt meter .5 closed and 4.5 wot iirc
 
i think the .net thing was for old windows 98 or whatever steve, i found it very easy to use
and the tps voltages can be set with a volt meter .5 closed and 4.5 wot iirc
Ive just downloaded it ... its a very small screen and from what I can make out its USA timing.. I think lol... oh dear ... I will have a play with it just to see if it sorts itself out so I can understand it... this being Old is rubbish :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

frank

Club Member
the idle screw is the black plastic allenkey on the rear corner steve, it simply bypasses the throttleplate
but if you turn it too far the idle control valve goes off its scale and the engine can stall
the idle screw ideally needs to be set so that the idle control valve functions sortof between 20% and 80% if you see what i mean
 
the idle screw is the black plastic allenkey on the rear corner steve, it simply bypasses the throttleplate
but if you turn it too far the idle control valve goes off its scale and the engine can stall
the idle screw ideally needs to be set so that the idle control valve functions sortof between 20% and 80% if you see what i mean
I think Im with you on that, I hope its pre set, Im having trouble connecting ECU Talk to my lappy. non of the com ports are connecting, mind you Im not hooked up to the car, does your Consult cable connect ok as they have a special one in the pictures @ $115 ???? .. no thanks.
 
yes my ebay cable worked fine mate, iirc it was com port 3 ? there might be some threads on here
That port is the only one that reacts then fails.. will it only work when connected to the car... Im about to go out and try it..... Told you I was rubbish with techie stuff ... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: .... wont connect..
 
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heh :) is the car running steve ?
Yes Frank, I tried with just the ignition on then with the engine running and still no connection, when I do the paper clip test I get 55 so the plug seems to be ok... Ive even tried 2 obd2 scanners that I have with a patch cable... nothing on them but I didnt expect there to be, I have one dedicated to Mercedes that I may try... you never know.... Im losing the will.. lol... brandy will be out later...
 
that software it might only work with old windows o/s,s steve, there were a few freewares when i had mine
Thats the one I bought Frank Im looking at Nissan Data Scan just now and the cables are ok with their programme, So I may risk a Few £££ and buy it, its $51... their cables are $250+ Seeing as its had a New Dizzy, Plugs, Leads, Fuel Filter and now a new TB & Fuel Pump to go in £40 ish isnt that bad really...
 
conzult works on windows 10 apparently
Thats what I have, when I put the disc in yesterday it kept freezing my Laptop to the extent I had to unplug it and remove the battery to get it going again then do a reset thingy... strange, It did the same on our other one aswell so I think the disc is goosed..
 
you might need an old lappy with xp on it eh
I have Tower with basic windows on, My original Idea was to install into my Tablet or get my mate who repairs Computers to do it as he is a wizard, but I have to shield and he wouldnt come for it because of that fact... I think I will risk getting the Nissan Data Scan one and keep my fingers crossed that the cable does in fact work with it as they claim...wont know till I try... Ive not touched a spanner yet...:unsure::unsure::unsure:
 
Could anyone tell me if the 2 green lights on the Consult connector light up when its connected, mine dont but the red one does and the programme reads the temp but nothing else, I am wondering if I have a faulty connector, I bought the Nissan Data Scan 1 but the cable is from another firm but supported by the programme
 
Ive just had a read Frank but its not telling me anything, Ive emailed NDS to ask them and also if it was the Android version I should have bought, I have a feeling the cable may be faulty as its not connected to anything apart from showing a red light... they only cost a few quid but its the time waiting... I will end up with a shed full of cables at this rate... lol..
 
Ive just managed to get the Nissan Data Scan to work on my Laptop, It appears I had downloaded the drivers etc but not installed them. I thought the lead was faulty so ordered a Consult lead from Horsham Developments that works with NDS and ECUtalk, that was before I found out the drivers were not installed and the lead has been posted, a dear do at £75 incl postage but its the proper lead after all and easier to get on the socket. Im going to print and laminate the NDS Manual and put it in a ring binder as Im not techie minded at all. I put the dashboard on the screen lots of dials. The tacho was jumping from 550 rpm to over 6500 rpm on Idle, the Timing fluctuated from +10 to + 45 I think it was, The Injectors were all over the place with whatever it was reading. I will do another check when the new lead comes and write the numbers down, I have a brand New TB and Fuel Pump to fit, I may just do the injectors anyway.... now to do some reading of the manual when Ive printed it. My other half had better keep this Micra for many more years after all of this ... I could have bought another with what Ive spent .... Its been brilliant up this point...
 
Ive fitted the new TB and it runs rough do I need to do the thing with the key and accelerator peddle or could it be the timing is way out as I mentioned before, it fired up first turn of the key idled faster than normal but when I pressed the peddle it ran rough.. any help would be great...
 
I had a look at the old TB yesterday and noticed this little lot on the pictures, now the only person that was near there when it wouldnt fire up was the very young RAC Lad ???? I wonder what he thought, Ive re aligned the marks and Im going to take off the new TB and put this back on and see what happens ... fingers crossed that all I need to do is set the timing ... its doing my head in ..
 

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Well this Micra has me well and truly beaten, I cant get the idle down no matter what I try so therefore cant set the timing. I managed once to settle it down a bit but the timing was on tdc and holding steady, then it started to really suck in air and ran like a bag of nuts and bolts in a washing machine. I tried to back it off the drive but as soon as I touched the accelerator it stalled. Ive noticed that the accelerator cable is slacker on the new TB than it was on the old one, Ive not moved the the front nut as I put tape in front of it and slackened the rear nut nearest the front of the car, its as if the cam set up needs to go further round to take up the slack and may reduce the idle speed, the setup of the cam looks a little different to my old TB set up. I am at a total loss now as to what to do, even the diagnostics cut off when the engine starts to run erratic, My old multi meter was analog so Ive just bought a digital one to get better readings. Im thinking of doing the solder repair to my old TB to see if that helps is lead free solder the right one to use ..... doing my old head in this car.... Ive read so much that Im getting confused... any help in simple terms would be very much appreciated..
 

frank

Club Member
are you aware that the ecu uses the timing to stabilise the idle if the idle control valve is knackered steve ?
if it tries to stall the ecu advances the timing when not in base idle mode
 
are you aware that the ecu uses the timing to stabilise the idle if the idle control valve is knackered steve ?
if it tries to stall the ecu advances the timing when not in base idle mode
No I wasnt Frank, the Idle control valve is the black one with an allen key opening ..???
 

frank

Club Member
the valve is on the front (3 wires ?)
and the manual idle screw is that allenkey
thats why you need to be in base mode, to over-ride the ignition timing from moving
 
you should get a stable idle by adjusting that allen screw mate, after blipping the throttle a few times
I will give it another try when we have a warmer day, Engine up to temp I assume, Im going to read back over my other post as I seem to recall you saying I should have some readings off the tps, cant recall what they were but can it be adjusted to get those readings, like I said Ive read so much Im confusing myself ... Ive restored 2 Mercs over the past few years and a bloody Micra is doing my head in ... lol.. Thanks for help mate...
 

frank

Club Member
I will give it another try when we have a warmer day, Engine up to temp I assume, Im going to read back over my other post as I seem to recall you saying I should have some readings off the tps, cant recall what they were but can it be adjusted to get those readings, like I said Ive read so much Im confusing myself ... Ive restored 2 Mercs over the past few years and a bloody Micra is doing my head in ... lol.. Thanks for help mate...
yes you need hot coolant flowing through the little green waxstat at the back of the t/b mate
removing the tps just puts the ecu into a basic limp mode to safely drive the car home, same with removing the maf
 
yes you need hot coolant flowing through the little green waxstat at the back of the t/b mate
removing the tps just puts the ecu into a basic limp mode to safely drive the car home, same with removing the maf
Thanks Mate, I will let you know how I get on... just need a warmer day for these old bones ... lol
 
If you have datascan you can put the ecu in timing mode (Active test, click start under base idle adjust). No need to disconnect the TPS then. But the engine needs to be warm. Adjust the rpm to 650-700 and check if the timing is 15 degrees. And check the TPS. Datascan should show closed TPS in the data display and open when you tough the pedal.

Also check the waxstat. The plunger should be out further when cold and should move back in when the engine is warm. When cold it causes the throttlevalve to stay open a bit.
 
If you have datascan you can put the ecu in timing mode (Active test, click start under base idle adjust). No need to disconnect the TPS then. But the engine needs to be warm. Adjust the rpm to 650-700 and check if the timing is 15 degrees. And check the TPS. Datascan should show closed TPS in the data display and open when you tough the pedal.

Also check the waxstat. The plunger should be out further when cold and should move back in when the engine is warm. When cold it causes the throttlevalve to stay open a bit.
Thanks Maarten, NDS takes a bit of working out for me at times.. much appreciated ..
 
Im Back !!! . after being put on my back for a few months with Covid Im going to have another go at sorting this Micra out, I will send off for a load of TB Gaskets as I know it will be coming off a few times with my luck. If I cant sort it out its up for grabs with a new dizzy complete with leads, fuel filter fitted, fuel pump still boxed new Throttle body as its doing my head in and I doubt the Old TB was the problem as there was no spark from the Dizzy but the RAC kid messed with the TB and this is where I am ...
 
Hi Steve
Sounds like a right ordeal, these vehicles are sent to try us!
Not that I can offer any tech advice to this thread, but if you have the old orignal throttle body off re-soldering is easy, a bit more difficult in situ and maybe clean the MAF sensor inside as well?
In my old (preface lift) red one I did a direct TB swap out and it was ok, though as you say yours is brand new.
Where did you get the new throttle body, is it one of those ones on ebay from Taiwan?
The thing with that young RAC bloke, I suspect he probably been bought up on electronics of moderns vehicles, where's it could of not been the TB in the first place?!
 
Hi Steve
Sounds like a right ordeal, these vehicles are sent to try us!
Not that I can offer any tech advice to this thread, but if you have the old orignal throttle body off re-soldering is easy, a bit more difficult in situ and maybe clean the MAF sensor inside as well?
In my old (preface lift) red one I did a direct TB swap out and it was ok, though as you say yours is brand new.
Where did you get the new throttle body, is it one of those ones on ebay from Taiwan?
The thing with that young RAC bloke, I suspect he probably been bought up on electronics of moderns vehicles, where's it could of not been the TB in the first place?!
I got the TB & the Dizzy from a Brit firm down south called Motortronic in Essex on 10th Jan, they were very helpful as I didnt realise that the TB for an auto is different for a manual, so they corrected my order £167 free postage, The RAC lad had messed with TPS I only found out after finding a screw lodged in a little nook, I know it was never there as I look after that little car, I will have another go but set the timing manually on the pully`s, check No1 piston is at the top of its stroke then go from there ...
 
I got the TB & the Dizzy from a Brit firm down south called Motortronic in Essex on 10th Jan, they were very helpful as I didnt realise that the TB for an auto is different for a manual, so they corrected my order £167 free postage, The RAC lad had messed with TPS I only found out after finding a screw lodged in a little nook, I know it was never there as I look after that little car, I will have another go but set the timing manually on the pully`s, check No1 piston is at the top of its stroke then go from there ...
Ok I have heard of Motortronic, though I thought they were in West London?
I am not sure what the difference is on the manual and auto TB's, but they are listed as different, as remember that when hunted around for my old TB 2nd hand.
Hope the setting of the timing proves fruitful.
 
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