Need help from everyone measurements

[Robert Whelan]

Hi everyone

I need measurements of the links on the rear axle. I need to know centre to centre lenghts of the panrod, and the other links can't remember there name.

It will be benefit the whole community if i'm able to get these measurements.

all will come appartent in a couple of months.

thanks

p.s if anyone has some spare links lying about, could you post them to me if i pay the postage??

 

[frank]

i make it 290mm for the inner tie-rods robert, 425mm for the outer tie-rods, and nearly 820mm for the p/rod
i,m tempted to fit a k10 axle on mine, with the k10 coilovers, or a lightweight other jap one
(ours are way over-engineered imo, and needlessly heavy :glare

 

[Low Rider]

I stripped my rear axle down last year to it's bare essentials when I was on a powdercoating binge. Ground off all the unnecessary brackets and when I picked it up I was actually surprised how light it was when everything on it was removed. The calipers, hubs and discs weight a fair bit.

You probably have one laying around somewhere Frank how much does the rear axle weight all told?

 

[Robert Whelan]

don't think about swaping axles just yet frank i'll have a surprises up my sleeve, including some light weight components to cut weight down.

Also can i ask what thickness the bushes are so widest part of the bush that sits against the chassis, internal metal pipe.

What size metec bolts do the rear axles have M8 or M10

 

[Low Rider]

don't think about swaping axles just yet frank i'll have a surprises up my sleeve, including some light weight components to cut weight down.

Also can i ask what thickness the bushes are so widest part of the bush that sits against the chassis, internal metal pipe.

What size metec bolts do the rear axles have M8 or M10

Depends on which bolts you mean. The trailing arms are M12 from memory and I highly reccommend high tensile 80T/sq.in A4 stainless bolts to aid future disassembly, (much more expensive that plated CS, but worth it in the long run). Not 100% sure on the damper points, someone with a car to hand can clarify 100%

 

[frank]

Depends on which bolts you mean. The trailing arms are M12 from memory and I highly reccommend high tensile 80T/sq.in A4 stainless bolts to aid future disassembly, (much more expensive that plated CS, but worth it in the long run). Not 100% sure on the damper points, someone with a car to hand can clarify 100%

http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13406&stc=1&d=1250693665

yes, they,re all m12,s, (fine, like the wheelstuds) and i get the width of the bushes to 48mm
you can shed 2kg off the drums btw :wasntme:

 

[1275]

What did you use on them drums?

Guess you could also get someone to turn them down a bit.

 

[frank]

What did you use on them drums?

Guess you could also get someone to turn them down a bit.

disc cutter and a grinder
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13407&stc=1&d=1250697097

 

[Low Rider]

Any noticeable difference in performance frank? I wouldn't like to take too much off for circuit time, a good bit of thermal mass is sometimes a benefit........why I went to discs. I once got the drum so hot they stopped working all together

Mind you I think the later type drums are a bit more skinny.....

 

[frank]

Any noticeable difference in performance frank? ..

these ones are on my misses,s low rider (mine were done last year) and i,ve been grinding chunks of metal off my engine/gearbox mounts, seats and anything i can find lately (and even drilled holes in my scissorjack ) (they will all add up and make a collective difference eventually eh :grinning