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My rusty Micra K10 Super S

OP
OP
Horci
The front is ready for the MOT :)
Needed to change the tie rods, sterring and drive shaft boots.
And the BWAs is ready too, painted to bronze :)




 
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OP
OP
Horci
On Friday the car passed the MOT, so it is on the road again :)
I have to work a lot of with it, but now the exterior is ready (the rear wing and the beams still missing ... coming soon).



The BWAs have new color, I like it, especially with the red bolts.






I have to change the muffler tip, because the factory one is disgusting :(



Some strenghtening :)


In the rear too :)


After a year I bought it, the car got a new chance to life.
 
OP
OP
Horci
The winter and the darkness is coming, so the lights came back. v2.0, now seems much better, and I can adjust them in bigger ranges.





Oh ... the rear wing is back too, with a third stop lamp inside



sorry, my phone's camera was dirty :(
 
OP
OP
Horci
In the weekend I fitted again a little bit of Mitsubishi to my Micra :)

I took apart the spare set SuperS seats, and made 2 good from 4. Only the passanger side pillows was useable with the cloths. Springs changed too. As the seats was in pieces, I installed Galant OEM seat heating :)

 

HASAN

micrarri power!!
Just looked through your blog and wow! I dont know what to say....perhaps I should peek into the K10 section more often! :) Great car and what a journey you've had with it! Thanks for sharing! Im sure every car enthusiast can appreciate the amount of hard work you've put into this car!! Great job buddy!:D
 
OP
OP
Horci
Thanks for the good words, I really appreciate it :) Still have to work with it, but now the car is in every day use, looking good, but 1 year ago it was a piece of #### :) Now it starts, idling good, turns great, the engine is strong (as it can :p), consumption is really good too. So I statisfied :)
 
OP
OP
Horci
Since I haven't wrote anything, here is a progress report :) :
Fortunately, the car easily passed the winter season, without any carb problems, or any other issues. It worked as it should :D, so I gave him a suprise washing, before the winter tires gone to the top of the shelf :)



After that, my friend made me a full incorrodible exhaust system, 44mm inside diameter to the rear muffler, and there narrows back to 40mm, two simple pass through mufflers. The car almost don't have any noise :)

Some pics:
 
OP
OP
Horci
Havent been there for a while, because nothing serious happened about the car.
As the summer is there, had some little meets, with friends:





And a video, from an amateur slalom:

And to have a meaning this post, I almost have a donor car (only a part of the price paid). 1.3 SuperS


Planning to swap the engine, brakes, suspension (with swaybar), full climate, power windows. The plans is in my head, hope I can sort any of them :D
 
OP
OP
Horci
The donor car arrived.

It is a nice thing: SuperS, 4 disc brakes, climate, electric windows, central lock, and of course a CG13DE. I'm going to install all of these features to my K10 ... somehow :D

The first project is the brakes.
The K11 had a solid disk in front (D'OH, my K10 has vented), and caliper cant support the 19mm thick discs, so i will put them to the trash. I will change only the hubs, and install Mitsubishi calipers and discs (because they have in stock). 238mm vented, same parameters as the K11 brakes had to be.

Question:

My K10 (MA12 engined) driveshaft outer joint's parameters:
Teeth number outside 23
Teeth number inside: 19

K11 SuperS (CG13) driveshaft outer joint's parameters:
Teeth number outside: 23
Teeth number inside: 22

I cannot interchange them, but will my driveshaft fit for the K11 hub?

The rear discs seems to be easily fit ... :)
 
OP
OP
Horci
In the weekend I tried to set up the front brakes.
Hopefully the hub fits to the driveshaft, but the K10 trailing arm ball joint is different from the K11 ones. It is smaller, so the hub will not fit perfectly. No problem, I can change the ball joints, but the biggest thing is: K11 hub geometry is different form K10 one, with the K11 hub my wheel will go 2cm backwards. It will worn the driveshafts, and the suspension geometry will extremely bad. The caster angle will be almost zero ...
If I change the whole trailing arm to the K11 one, the traction will be 2-3cms narrower, as I measured. The driveshaft will not fit again.

Anybody have a good solution for this problem? Sorry I dont have pics now ...
 

jamieccc

Ex. Club Member
are you fitting the whole cg injection system also? if so id be very interested to see loads of pics on what you have done
 
OP
OP
Horci
are you fitting the whole cg injection system also? if so id be very interested to see loads of pics on what you have done
Yes. I have to sort out the cabling, and install a fuel pump.
But now, the brake project in progress :)
 

jamieccc

Ex. Club Member
What fuel pump are you using? What kind of btake setup are you going for? 100nx? almera?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
Horci
What fuel pump are you using? What kind of btake setup are you going for? 100nx? almera?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm thinking about external one, instead of cut a hole to my tank. For cost effective solution, i going to borrow used Ford or Merc pump. It will feed the 1.3 well. If i have problems (99% I will) in the corners, I have to make a puffer tank solution ... somehow.

About the brakes. To the front, I will use Mitsubishi 92-96 Colt/Lancer brakes. Those will easily fit to my 13" wheels. 238mm vented. I have few calipers in stock, so there will be no problem with the parts support, and the whole stuff was pricefree :D
The rear ones will be K11 stock rear disc brake. 240mm solid disc. It will fit directly to the K10 (and K11 is the same) rear hub, only need to make a custom caliper support, directly bolted to the place of the drum brake.

I will see should I change the brake main cylinder. I think I should, but the K11 one is barely different, so I think I will use Mitsubishi one, with laser cutted adapter.
 
OP
OP
Horci
Rear disc brake progress:

Well prepared work conditions is important :)


So, first the whole drum brake have to remove.
As I wrote above, the K10 and K11 rear hub is the same, so there will be no problem with the shaft.



After the whole drum brake wall was out, I had to make a template for the mounting. Now it is screwed to the rear susension :)



And the assembled pic:
Only the half of the caliper is still prepared, but enough for measuring.



The next step will be a proper drawing from this thing, Had to send to laser cut it. I have to manufacture an additional brake line, and maybe a new a hand brake cable (but i hope I can use an existing one)
 
OP
OP
Horci
The guy in a Fabia forgot what the red light means :( He crashed me from the side. Hopefully only my nose hurt when I broke the side window with my head, but nothing all.
The well made chassis, and the strenghtenings saved my wife and me.

I'm working on the reborn. Too much work, and love (and potential of course with the CG13 and good brakes) in the car, I will not let it go.
 

MaxK11C

#Mallards
Moderator
Social Brand Manager
No disrespect to your skills, but surely that cant be safe to put back on the road?
 
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