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My rusty Micra K10 Super S

#1
Greetings from Hungary !

I wanted to buy a cheap modest car for go to work, and I found this :) The good points was it started immediatley, mechanically seemd OK, but the chassis was as rusty as any japanese car in his age. As this is a 3 door car, I need to replace only 3 doors (plus a fuel refill door) :)
The engine is good despite I drained tar from the oil pan. Somebody missed few oil changes before. The belts ok, but I need to replace them too. The exhaust had a big hole, needed to weld, but now it is OK.

The bad points aside from the chassis is the electronics.
Here is the few things what don't work:
- horn
- rear wiper + washer
- front washer
- back up lights (oh, anybody have a working switch? :))
- rear fog lights

The solved things:
- fuel meter
- stop lamp
- headlamps
- radio
- speedo

I installed BWA Racing 6x13" rims, with 175/60 A539.
Have to do a lot of things with it but now its running :) The suspension is worn, i'm going to replace the old brushes with polyurethane.

Here is a few pics from the thing:







I have to lower it a little bit :)







Yes, this is a hole :)





In my future plans I'm going to install Mitsubishi Sigma front fog lights (just a little modification in the bumper), and cut a Fiat Sceicento leather roof to improve the leaky sunroof. I'm going to make a Tropic version :D

The fog lights:


Oh, the car was cheap, I bought it only for 260 euro (Ł 221) :) Maybe it worth it ;) I'm going to refurnish it slowly, and keep in alive :)
 
#2
Welcome to the site Horci ;)
I love your wheels...very 80's :p
I hope you are able to sort the issues...she'll be a real beauty ^_^
 
#5
Update:

I have a big probem with the car. A week ago I had to refurbish the carburetor, because the car lost the idle, stared to make huge black smoke, the consumption climbed up to 13l/100km. So I changed everything in the carb, now It is OK, but an other problem appeared. The petrol is black. Black in the filter, black in the carb too. After I sucked out a litte sample and burned it, only oil remained.
The question is: how could be the petrol full of oil? I checked the fuel pump, it is sh*t, I need to replace, but I never had oil consumption.
The oily petrol not burning well, the car is weak, I have no idle, under 1500rpm the engine stalls. I can not use it :(
Anybondy have a clue, how can I solve the problem?
 
#8
I hope it is not related to the current problem, but anybody know the factory jet sizes for the 1.2 DCZ 306 carb? I have to be sure everything is factory default. I think too much "specialist" worked on this car before.

An other question. How can I check the ECC is working properly? There is somewhere a diag connector, I seen in the handbook.
 
#11
I ithink 1.0 and 1.2 are the same, only the jets different. My catalog gives DCZ 306 carb for the MA12S. But, I found the numbers in this forums :)

MA10 Main JET
Primary - 94
Secondary - 130

MA12s Main JET without Catalytic converter
Primary - 93
Secondary - 130

MA12s Main JET with Catalytic converter
Primary - 91
Secondary - 130
 
#13
In the morning I replaced the fuel pump, the filter, and drained the fuel tank, replaced with fresh petrol.
It was great in 2°C and 30km/h wind :)
Now seems OK, the idle is almost good, the gas reaction came back. I hope it will be ok now, onday morning it have to take me tor my workplace :)
I didn't tought that the fuel pump is that expensive. It was Ł48 :( This is the biggest expense what I spent for this sh*t :D
 
#14
Hi !
Its me again :)

Yesterday, I bought this:


Its an almost rust free 1.2 LX with canvas top (and a SuperS rear spoiler, so I have two of them :D) My original chassis is not totally unwarranteble, but needs a lot of work:



So, thats why I got a donor :) It needs attention too, but working, and a good base for a canvas top SuperS :)




A little bit mossy :)


Ugly, but original, and automatic :)




Underneath:
rear sway bar:

Rusty brake line:


Progress coming soon :)
 
#16
Little progress from the weekend:

The silver one took apart, to start its long-long way to renewal.

Proper engine removal: :)




The door, the fender and the door sill is hopeless, thats why I could turn the whole thing to this side ... and of course the rear suspension didn't want to came off so I needed some place to cut the bolts.

The rusty brake line is "just" a rusty fuel line, so not a big problem, but still I have to change it.


An interesting thing about 23years of expert bodywork:



There will be a lot of work:



The whole front and the rear suspension came off, every bushing will be polyurethane, new ball joints, rubbers, etc ...

About the engine, I thinking about make the MA12 to multi point injection, it will be a lot of work, everything still in my head, but the stuff for it is in my warehouse, so it will work ... somehow :p

More progress coming soon :)
 
#18
Too easy :D And I want to keep the original engine (and its number), because the swap is not allowed in my country and I couln't pass the MOT test.
I have a fast car, with swapped engine (Mitsubishi Colt with EVO2 4G63T swap, FWD LSD, and so on :)) and I bought this thing to be cheap, and take me everywhere with no problem, just like a work car.

The injection plan: Mitsubishi 4G13 full ECI Multi system. I need to make a custom intake, insert the distributor, and everything is done :) with the EPROM ECU I can flash into everyting I want, maybe I could be more economy :)

Just to talk about the CG13 conversion. If I do the swap, can I use the MA12 tranny with everyting (drive shafts, gear linkage)? So I have to only change the engine itself, and I can bolt it to the transmission? Flywheel, starter, clutch can be interesting :)
 

mas12555

Rare parts nerd #JDM
#19
Too easy :D And I want to keep the original engine (and its number), because the swap is not allowed in my country and I couln't pass the MOT test.
I have a fast car, with swapped engine (Mitsubishi Colt with EVO2 4G63T swap, FWD LSD, and so on :)) and I bought this thing to be cheap, and take me everywhere with no problem, just like a work car.

The injection plan: Mitsubishi 4G13 full ECI Multi system. I need to make a custom intake, insert the distributor, and everything is done :) with the EPROM ECU I can flash into everyting I want, maybe I could be more economy :)

Just to talk about the CG13 conversion. If I do the swap, can I use the MA12 tranny with everyting (drive shafts, gear linkage)? So I have to only change the engine itself, and I can bolt it to the transmission? Flywheel, starter, clutch can be interesting :)
use a flywheel from an early cg10 mate then you can bolt the cg13 to a MA12 gearbox using a K10 clutch.
CG13 also lines up with all the engine mounts except the drivers side (passenger side for a left hand drive) you just need to take the mount off and move it forward.
 
#20
The front bumper finished, so I took my friday afternoon with the car :)


Mitsubishi Sigma foglights installed, looking great I think :p Needs to do a lot of work with the shapes during the painting, but now it works :)






The grill is still on the way with tow driving lights :)
 
#22
Sure. But you have to cut almost the whole bottom of the fender (the part where it connects with the front skirt). I will make to it an other connection in the other car, but now seems stable. Other thing, you need to cut the two towing things :)
 
#26
Thank you :) This car is still seems like it came from a scrapyard, but slowly improving :)
The lights now working:

I need a bigger generator :)


Meanwhile, my stickers arrived :) Both for the SuperS and for my Colt.

 
#34
Progress from the weekend:

Few weeks ago I found an advert, a guy wanted a few small parts for his car He needed a good working carburetor, a small plate which holds the clutch cable to the tranny, and a complete air filter housing. Accidently I had all of the parts, so called him, talked about it, and he said , after 8 years the car layed in his barn, his son wanted to race with it in the local amateur slalom races. He said he don't like to pay for it, so I can take everything whats need for my car, beacuse he know the car will scratched during the races. So I went to him, and look at the car. Accidently I was it is a silver SuperS, it had every original small bits, with the spoilers (all the bolt covers). We made a deal, I took him what needed, and I can take everything what I want. Fortunately my donor car is a silver one, so I took off from it the complete doors, the interior (dashboard, carpets, plastics) bumpers, lights, fenders, and changed everything with the silver SuperS :D

When I arrived:










After the change:


The stuff :):












The restoration made a huge leap forward, and I can take the black, worn things to spare :)

The BWAs are on the way too, to be much nicer :)


More progress sooon :)
 
#36
On friday the lowering springs completed, so yesterday I went to be messy ... again :)

In the front the standard spring lowered 40mm.
The rear ones came from 92-96 Lancer :) The spring diameter is the same, so I could install it to the damper, the main advantage is the spring is thicker with 1mm, so the rear of the car is stiffer now. The top have to modify to fit the plate, and the lenght of course.


From top te below:
standard rear spring
lowered rear 2x
lowered front

Seems ok, but still is steelies :(




After that, I repaired the electronic headlight adjuster, it was a block of rust, but now it works again :) Now I need to adjust the lights for the new ride height.
 
#39
Not really. I only seen 3 super. One is mine (which is almost a half because of the rust), the other one was the silver (that is now seems like an ordinary slx :D) and an other black seen twice 20km away from my home, parking in front of a nice old house. The car was always nice and tidy, might be an old guy's car :)
 
#43
In the weekend I was working again on my car :) As the MOT expired, and I didn't want to renew it to this car, I broke the black. I think it was good idea, because it was hopeless and extremely dangerous (I didn't knew it, until the carpets came out)

It was rusty? I dont think so :p


By this view, not seems bad, but ...

The left side of the car was once repaired, it wasn't bad, not enough :)


I almost fall out of the car? :)



From the rear seat, I could inspect the tire thread :p



This is the strut, what I repaired during the winter, because the absorber came into the car :)



This is the other side. I think only a half of a year would left for it.



The rear seat belt mounting point, and surroundings. Not so safety :(



The right side doorstep, once changed. It wasn't a professional work :)



holes ...







An other nice thing: The front arm. It is safety too :(



and this is the end for it:



The rear brake lines almost melted in my hands, it was hopless too.
Two cars broke, now, it is time to make a good one :)

More progress soon :p
 
#47
I havent made a picture, but when I hit the left doorstep near the B pillar, the whole chassis broke into two pieces. From left doorstep, to right doorstep :) Piece of cake :) And I used the car that way, and didn't seemd bad, it turned really good.
The silver chassis, is in mint condition, the rear arches changed, and the doorsteps too (and every little rusty part changed with new metal :p). It is stiff as it should, or better :)

The fuel consuption was really good, thats why the weight loss :p

About the sunroof, I only have the glass from it, but is different from the british ones. There are installed by local dealers (as far as I can remeber german made)
 
#50
At the weekend, the whole suspension become ready, so the car is rolling again :)







The driver can choose a steering wheel :)


Handbrake service :)



New corrosion protection, there will be no problem with it for a few years (I hope :) ).



A month old vegetation :)



And, what I said before ... The difference between SuperS and a regular 1.2 hub. The SuperS have vented disks, and the arm is, which connects the rack is shorter.

 
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