MY MICRA EATS !!!!!!

bought a micra about a week ago and stuff aint right with it tbh i thought id pay extra for one in good nick and tbh i was ripped bad !

its a 1 litre auto and its not even doing 35-40 miles to a tenner tbh i even thought i may have had a fuel leak turns out not anyone know y its running so bad
 
sorry was ment to say sometimes i use kick down but most of time im a grandad driver ( quite unbelievable someone thats 20 LOL )

not too sure about the service im gonna start there i think

Max i had a good look i even nicked me grandads magnefyer (no jokes ) and tbh nuffin
 

superls

K10 Tuner
using your rough figures

£10 petrol at £1.40 per litre 7.142 litres or 1.58 gallons
40 miles on 1.58 gallons is 25MPG

1 litre auto i wouldnt expect much more than low 30's
so with these cold mornings letting the car tickover to warm up? 25 might be a bit low but might be about right?
 

MaxK11C

Micraless
Moderator
Social Brand Manager
Max i had a good look i even nicked me grandads magnefyer (no jokes ) and tbh nuffin
Might not be able to see it - I've heard of holes so small, that the fluid evaporates before it hits the ground! But if you're sure, I'll beleive ya :p.
 
if your car has over 60 k on the clock, the often cause is the faulty oxygen sensor (Lambda) on top of the exahust manifold. A new one usually fixes MPG problems. Proper fliud change is mandatory if you want this car to run nicely.
 
if your car has over 60 k on the clock, the often cause is the faulty oxygen sensor (Lambda) on top of the exahust manifold. A new one usually fixes MPG problems. Proper fliud change is mandatory if you want this car to run nicely.

Hi Muniek,

I have a 1.4 SE+ with 184K on the clock. In this cold weather, it barely makes 30-31 MPG. According to the owner's manual it should be making 48 MPG on city driving and 56 on motorways. The MAF is not the original one, but one of those Ebay one I got for £30.

The questions is, will a universal LAMBDA sensor work or does have to be an original? The original one cost over £100 while the universal one is only £30.

What about potentiometer? does have any bearing in the fuel economy?

Regards
 
universal works fine, as long as it will be a 3 wire one - save your cash :) Don't touch anything else for now. Should fix your MPG. Also warming up the engine by driving not standing still will heat the motor quicker thus lower consumption.
 
universal works fine, as long as it will be a 3 wire one - save your cash :) Don't touch anything else for now. Should fix your MPG. Also warming up the engine by driving not standing still will heat the motor quicker thus lower consumption.

Very many thanks Muniek,

Regarding warming up the engine, based on my observation, where I drive cold, although the engine warms up quicker time-wise, but the overall fuel consumption is higher as well! Whereas, if the engine is warmed before driving, despite taking a bit longer time-sie, the fuel consumption is much lower!

I have done 98 miles for 14 liters of fuel with engine warmed before driving, 70 miles for 13.4 litters with driving cold!

I might be wrong but that is the actual figures!

Regards
 

skymera

Brutal Honesty
Hazara said:
Hi Muniek,

I have a 1.4 SE+ with 184K on the clock. In this cold weather, it barely makes 30-31 MPG. According to the owner's manual it should be making 48 MPG on city driving and 56 on motorways. The MAF is not the original one, but one of those Ebay one I got for £30.

The questions is, will a universal LAMBDA sensor work or does have to be an original? The original one cost over £100 while the universal one is only £30.

What about potentiometer? does have any bearing in the fuel economy?

Regards

Ebay mafs are known to be garbage.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Forum Runner
 
not MAF, we are talking only about Lambda - different thing. I also noticed that the car warms much quicker with the new lambda installed. Just do it, you will not regret it.
 
The issue with warming the car in a stand still in cold conditions (-1 to - infinty) is the lack of oil pressure at starup. Oil really needs to flow, and in a standstill the pressure is always lower - thus slowly damaging the internals (crank bearings and lower end of engine)
 
before you buy it, check under the hood how many wires it has they are easily distinguishable. The sensor is connected to exhaust manifold (first exhaust part near the engine. A single probe (sensor goes into it). |count the wires, order a proper one, replace according to colors and solve your problem. :)
 
Before you go changing the lambda sensor (which is quite possibly faulty, i wont deny that) i would personally check condition of the plugs and air filter, easier to do a good service first and compare your mpg. Lambda sensors on the micra exhaust manifolds DO NOT come out very easily....trust me, i have thrown manifolds away because they just will not budge even with all the equipment i have at my disposal!!! Do the obvious things first, dont get caught out and throw money and time at something before doing the basics. A dirty air filter, poor sparks plugs with have a big impact on mpg and, to a certain degree, the grade/quality of oil in the engine will too. Check for little things like binding brakes, incorrect tyre pressures etc

I would not pay too much heed to mpg figures given in owners books either. These are calculated in ideal world conditions and generally are a load of b*llocks. Automatic gearboxes are a killer on small cc engines no matter how good those engines are (and the cg engines would certainly be the best of the bunch that way)
 
tbh guys ive been thinking and it got me from barnsley to castleford and back on £15 my 1979 vauxhall viva cost £25 and it was a 1.3 super charged

also found my exhaust is blowing plus needs a service which im going to get on with one of the cats ( been told theres 2 ) now doesnt exist as it has sort of blown out (rattles)
had a few other problem to deal with so short on cash atm
 
Before you go changing the lambda sensor (which is quite possibly faulty, i wont deny that) i would personally check condition of the plugs and air filter, easier to do a good service first and compare your mpg. Lambda sensors on the micra exhaust manifolds DO NOT come out very easily....trust me, i have thrown manifolds away because they just will not budge even with all the equipment i have at my disposal!!! Do the obvious things first, dont get caught out and throw money and time at something before doing the basics. A dirty air filter, poor sparks plugs with have a big impact on mpg and, to a certain degree, the grade/quality of oil in the engine will too. Check for little things like binding brakes, incorrect tyre pressures etc

I would not pay too much heed to mpg figures given in owners books either. These are calculated in ideal world conditions and generally are a load of b*llocks. Automatic gearboxes are a killer on small cc engines no matter how good those engines are (and the cg engines would certainly be the best of the bunch that way)

Thank you very much Lord Lucan,

The car had been serviced in October, so the plugs and Air filter are okay. The brake caliper was jammed and replaced it in November. Tyre pressure are 33 front and 31 rear. However, Since changing the brake caliper and track rode end I did not do tracking.

The latest reading from the code reader are as follows:

Timing Advace= 14.
Intake Air=35
MAF 2.1 g/s
Vacuum=29.9 (the code reader also labels it as boost)
Throttle position=7.8 (last night at when stated from cold it was 8.2)
RPM = 720 (when at operating temperature and around 1400 when start from cold)


Regards
 

frank

Club Member
Thank you very much Lord Lucan,

The car had been serviced in October, so the plugs and Air filter are okay. The brake caliper was jammed and replaced it in November. Tyre pressure are 33 front and 31 rear. However, Since changing the brake caliper and track rode end I did not do tracking.

The latest reading from the code reader are as follows:

Timing Advace= 14.
Intake Air=35
MAF 2.1 g/s
Vacuum=29.9
Throttle position=7.8 (last night at when stated from cold it was 8.2)
RPM = 720 (when at operating temperature and around 1400 when start from cold)


Regards
thats a clever code reader :rolleyes: tyre pressures have a marked effect on mpg hazara, i run 40/35 personally
 

frank

Club Member
I run 30/30

I found anything over 32 made the car feel twitchy on motorways?

I'll try a bit higher today before work
i think twitchy at speed is usually tracking scott (too close to zero) and higher pressures usually just result in a slightly harsher ride :)
 
thats a clever code reader :rolleyes: tyre pressures have a marked effect on mpg hazara, i run 40/35 personally
Thanks Frank, good to hear from you,

I did not get the point "thats a clever code reader"! Can you please elaborate?

BTW, I wanted your opinion on the use of Almera MAF as discussed by StevenJJ here and he mentions you. Can you please advise on that as well?

Regards
 
k11,s dont have a map sensor hazara, so i dont know how its able to read a vacuum value

I used Torque and it is labeled as Boost when not reading but it read live data is changed to vacuum. I don't know what they are actually. Bebfore it was 22.?? Somehow it is 29.9 now. I just put the readings there if some one notice any malfunction.

Would you please advise me on that?
Regards
 
Hazara, those values don't mean anything really. If you wish you need to look for error codes. To be honest 184k miles is a high mileage and I bet the lambda is still the original Bosch one. If it is, replace it, don't worry about MAF. The condition of the exhuast will also matter (if you have any craks for example). My .02 based on recent observations on my micra.
 
Thanks Muniek,
The milage is 84k not 184.
However, I noticed something else. Whenever I touch spark plug coil to make sure they are not loose, the MPG get worst. I have touch them again to make it normal. I think there is something with either spark plugs or coils. I could locate dizzy cup yet. Haynes manual dose not mention it at all.

Regads
 
no, leave the heatshield on mate, and the coilpack lambda,s are 4 wire ones eh
Thanks a bunch frank,

Is there any chance that anything go wrong? what precautions should I take?
I have ordered a universal one from this site which is not arrived yet. Its a 4 wire one as well, but I don't know the colour coding though. I beleave I have cut the old connector and solder at end of the new one! Soldering is not a big deal but the colour doing is!


Reagards
 
yes yours are the same colours :)
Thanks frank,

The white wires are confusing bits! I presume they are no difference which round they are connected!!

no, leave the heatshield on mate, and the coilpack lambda,s are 4 wire ones eh

I have looked it again and it is not accessible without removing the heatshield!. unless the open ended spanner is one those tubular one! Since there normal open -ended one like this one, can not be used there!

I have the picture but can not upload.
Regards
 

frank

Club Member
the whites are the heater wires eh (shared supply)
and good luck getting those rusty heatshield bolts out then :)
 
the whites are the heater wires eh (shared supply)
and good luck getting those rusty heatshield bolts out then :)
Very many thanks Frank,

Couple of questions please:

1. Do I need to grease threads before installing?
2. Will DW40 do as penetrating oil to loosen the rusted nuts, or is it a different one? Where can I get from?
3. Is there a chance on breaking the nuts on heathenish?

Regards
 

frank

Club Member
1. if you want to
2. it may help
3. the heatshield nuts are usually rusted away to a smaller size (hammer a 9mm socket on maybe) and they tend to snap
but i still say you dont need to remove it personally, here,s a coilpack one showing the lambda cutout at the bottom, you should be able to get the spanner underneath it surely ?

P3270749.JPG
 
1. if you want to
2. it may help
3. the heatshield nuts are usually rusted away to a smaller size (hammer a 9mm socket on maybe) and they tend to snap
but i still say you dont need to remove it personally, here,s a coilpack one showing the lambda cutout at the bottom, you should be able to get the spanner underneath it surely ?

View attachment 22149
Very many thanks frank,

There is no way to open it without removing the heat-shield. I have recorded with mobile phone and uploaded on YouTube for you to advise me what to do please. (Sorry for voice/commentary which is not very clear!)

Regards
 

frank

Club Member
Very many thanks frank,

There is no way to open it without removing the heat-shield. I have recorded with mobile phone and uploaded on YouTube for you to advise me what to do please. (Sorry for voice/commentary which is not very clear!)

Regards
you would be able to swing a spanner without all that aircon crap there, all i can say is good luck :)
 
you would be able to swing a spanner without all that aircon crap there, all i can say is good luck :)
Thanks frank

Space between top (heat-shield) and bottom (I don't know what that is maybe the cat) is limited less then the head of spanner.

What happens if the nuts snip?

Regars
 

frank

Club Member
Thanks frank

Space between top (heat-shield) and bottom (I don't know what that is maybe the cat) is limited less then the head of spanner.

What happens if the nuts snip?

Regars
its only a bit of tin mate, you can just pry it forward a bit and slide the spanner in from the left, but i doubt if you will get the spanner in, with those pipes in the way.
if the bolts shear off just bin the heatshield, loads of members run theirs without one fitted
 
Top