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My GSX

alexv

Club Member (Trial)
hmmmm i suppose the 1.3 conversion is going to get done very very soon ey, beating me to it.
(you can let me know how its done then!!!) but is that not a facelift k11, will the box fit or are you going with the whole drive system, hubs and all?
are they bike carbs that it will be running or am i mistaken?
 
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Alex - Yeah, I've gone for the whole CG13 front end, box, shafts, hubs, bottom arms and ARB, just have to see if it fits now!
And yes they're bike carbs, quite a lot bigger than they looked in the ebay picture too!

Frank - It's gotta, it's my daily!

Mark - not quite, got a bit of fab to go first before I even drop the motor on mine.

Todays progress (Y)

Inspired by a picture in bigchief36s DET mini thread, when I got the engine I also got myself a manifold and downpipe off a Rover 25.
So here's a 'how I dunnit'
Cut off the original flange
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Make a new CG flange out of 10mm plate
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Chop the outside 2 pipes about to make them fit the CG port spacing and attach to flange
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Remove downpipe flanges and modify downpipes to follow the sump shape, weld inner and outer pipes to manifold
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And add accumulator and stainless flexi that's been kicking around in the garage
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Bolt back onto engine
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I've got the day off work tomorrow so I'll be off to the scrappy again in the morning to get a K10 distributor to experiment with, to see if I can avoid having to run the original ECU and transponder just to run the ignition.
Also need some bits of hose to join the carbs to the inlet manifold that I'm making.
 
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Noddie - Cheers dude

Curtis - I looked at the pictures of the frankspeed manifold and whilst that looks like an excellent solution, it would mean retaining the primary cat or at least the body of it. As mine is going in a pre-cat car I thought I'd give the modified 25 one a go.

Update time(Y)

Over the past 2 weeks I have been mostly pondering the stumbling blocks to me getting this in my car and running.
Number 1 was the distributor. I went and bought another K10 dizzy so I could sort that side of things without disabling my car.
I immediately discovered 2 things:
1. the K10 dizzy is 6mm smaller diameter where it it fits in the head.
2. the K10 dizzy is female slot drive whereas the K11 is male slot drive.
I've thought long and hard about how to get round this and have formulated a plan.
I'm having a collar machined up at the moment to locate the dizzy in the head. Annoyingly, I'm perfectly capable of knocking one up myself but can't get access to a lathe outside my working hours so I've had to farm it out to an old boy I know. I'm waiting on a phone call to say it's ready.
I'm gonna get round the drive issue by chopping the end off the K11 spindle and having it TIG'd onto the (cut down) K10 dizzy.

I have also had to buy another set of (smaller) bike carbs as the 1st ones I bought are miles too big and the spacing far too wide. Replacement carbs turned up yesterday morning, since then they've been cleaned, all the jets blown through, all the linkages lubed and the diaphram covers and link bar repainted. I've finished cutting out the inlet manifold flange, die grinder splinters a plenty:doh: just waiting on the appropriately sized bits of pipe to arrive, which hopefully will be with me Tuesday.

I've cleaned and painted a lot of bits and fitted them, welded up the heated manifold take off pipes, and fitted the clutch and gearbox.
How about some pics?
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Brackets to get rid of the aircon and power steering pumps
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Mate even donated an old samco hose (Y)
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Now I need your help folks :blush:
Has anyone got a pre 98 cg13 5speed mechanical speedo drive that they are willing to part with? The 'box has got an electric sender unit which isn't interchangeable with the K10 mechanical one. My other option would've been butchering the electronic speedo into the K10 binnacle, but having dismantled the K11 one I'd have to put the whole binnacle in and the Haynes Book of Lies hasn't got the correct wiring diagram for the electric speedo:(
 

frank

Club Member
lookin good BiAS (Y)
the analogue speedo drive is 93 onwards for 1.3 eh, and if the dizzy drive set-up falls through i,v pretty much sussed the basic wiring for the ecu, mine runs ok with the injectors, tps and maf disconnected (but you get different spark advance curves) :)
 
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Thanks guys,
More progress (Y)
Picked up the collar Monday night, seen here in situ
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Took the dizzy to work Tuesday, guy that was meant to be doing it forgot to do it. Nevermind as SWMBO picked up the special order exhaust bends for me from the local factors. Came home all excited expecting to be building my inlet manifold only to find that they'd ordered the wrong size. Spent the evening in the garage rebuilding the garage computer instead.

Today was better, got the bends ordered through work, they'll be here tomorrow. :grinning: Guy at work did the dizzy :grinning:
My hybrid dizzy
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Now all I needed to do was make the section for the dizzy to bolt to.
The spacer needs to be 20mm thick, I'd only got 10mm so 2 bits were welded together and angle grindered into the right shape, hole drilled for mounting bolt.
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Welded onto the collar, welds smoothed, hole drilled and tapped to hold the dizzy into it, painted and fitted(Y)
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Well pleased with that. Inlet manifold tomorrow (Y)
 

Robb

Site Supporter
Just backtracked a bit, that manifold is amazing! Im just amazed as it looks like its been designed with the a/c pump in mind.

Very nice and with bike carbs this will be a beast :)
 
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Cheers guys :)

MORE PROGRESS!! :D

Thursday at work brought some very interestingly shaped 38mm bends, it looks like they are 45mm bends with the ends shrunk down to 38mm.
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This put paid to my original idea for the manifold as I wanted to keep the carbs quite close to the head. After much deliberation I finally made the cuts, then tickled them about with the soft pad on the grinder to get them to sit as right as possible, finally welding them on at about 11pm. Had to have a trial fit to see if I'd got the manifold right.................Success! :D
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Today I took it to work and spent my breaks welding and die grinding the inside into a nicer, curvier shape (round pipes, weird cloud shaped ports)
When I got home I got to work adding the take off for the servo, which I cut out of the spare K10 manifold I had, and buzzed it in
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Then I got on with the take off for the vacuum advance and the balancing take offs. The piece of pipe I'd had set aside for this turned out to be made of some kind of odd alloy, which of course I only discovered when I tried to weld it in into manifold.
Looking around the garage the only suitably sized pipes were the vacuum take offs on the spare K10 and surplus K11 manifolds, some deft cutting and welding later I have all the take off I need.
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Cut down 16 allen cap bolts to the right length for the manifolds and 10 stainless button head bolts for the rocker cover.
Fitted the rocker cover, plugs and leads while the paint was drying on the inlet. Discovered that I'll need another No2 lead as No3 lead isn't long enough to reach the K10 cap, all the other leads fit though so that's a bonus :).
Fitted the inlet, carbs and plumbed up the vacuum advance. Then fitted the rubber caps to the balancing take offs.
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More soon!(Y)
 
OP
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Cheers Folks! I'm all over it like a rash!

More Progress! (Y)

After spending a great day up at Area 52 yesterday, I got the garage sorted out so that there was space for my car in there.
This morning 24vster and myself dropped the coolant and removed the rad out on the road, so we wouldn't have to work in a puddle all day. With the car in the garage work commenced on getting the very tired MA12 and all the front hubs, wishbones and driveshafts out......
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With all the excess stuff out of the way we got the K11 hubs, wishbones and track rod ends on. Of course I don't seem to have taken any photos of them but the only thing that didn't fit was the K11 ARB which is gonna take some more thought once the exhaust and gear linkage are sorted.
After a trial fit it became clear that:
a) - The K11 driveshafts are the same length as the K10 ones, this isn't so great as the diff on the CG13 'box is wider so some cutting and shutting is gonna be needed.
b) - To get the engine and box sitting where I want them I'm gonna have to do some mount fabrication.

So............
N/S mount is modified and O/S mount comes off
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Engine and 'box back in to mark where the mount needs top be moved to
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Marked and ready to cut
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Meanwhile 24vster decides that he can't cope with seeing these unpleasantnesses in the headlight wiring anymore..........
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So he removes them, solders and heatshrinks them on both sides
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Then I can get on with modifying the mount so that it fits in its new position, and finally welding it in
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Finally it sits in the hole supported by its own mounts for the first time............
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If you look closely you can see that a trial fit of the front steady sees it bolted up and at a bit of a funny angle. The bush at the top end of this has a lot of (designed in) movement, so a modified bar and mount............
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............ see the whole lot line up properly and with less flapping around.
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Just the rear mount to do now.

More soon!
 

superls

K10 Tuner
dam looks like your going to beat me to the first k10/cg hybrid on the road.

very good work tho maste, some really detailed stuff and i am planning a similar mod to the dizzy and youve just confirmed that all is good and it works.

my conversion is a bit different to yours tho, as im keeping the k10 'box for now and then hopefully moving to the cg10 pre 98 'box so i can keep my driveshafts gear linkage, front and rear and passanger mount.

my engine is going to be a special cg10 engine with a bit more go tho. ;)
 
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Cheers guys (Y)

BaM! MoRe PrOgReSs!!!

Last night I cracked into the rear engine mount as soon as I got back from work, K10 rear section spliced into a chunk of the K11 crossmember......
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........and fitted :)
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K11 Gear linkage steady bar chopped......................
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.....and welded (twice 'cos I got the measurements wrong :p )
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I also modified the rear where the mount attaches and drilled the floor to take the K11 mount.
When it got too late for noisy stuff I tried the driveshafts, because I've shifted the engine and box over I only need to cut and shut the short shaft, the long shaft fits! :cool:
I also measured the exhaust and the driveshaft so that today at work I could order the bits and pieces to do the exhaust and get hold of the the old boy that did the distributor adaptor to knock me up a collar for the driveshaft.
This evening straight after work 24vster and I went down to South Brent with one of the chopper guys from work to borrow his carb balancer, ready for when we get it running :cool:
Once home it was straight out into the garage again, first job was to do the selector rod for the gear linkage (again twice due to my inability to work a tape measure properly :blush: )
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I now have gears! :cool:
Had a bit of a play with the exhaust and then tried the radiator, this was when we discovered that the freshly modified front mount now occupied the space where the bottom hose outlet sits. Off it comes to have the offset moved into the bar, giving the bottom hose room to fit once more............
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............however upon refitting the radiator it became apparent that there is insufficient space between the engine side of the mount and the blades of the fan........
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.........Nevermind, that'll be a job for tomorrow evening.
Once it had got too late for noise we got the driveshaft stripped down ready for the cut and played around with the hoses.
More soon!
 
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Thursday night progress then:

First thing on the agenda was to sort out the front mount that fouled on the fan, sorted :)
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Exhaust done, probably not the ideal set up but I don't want it to drown out the carb noise and I can't afford to build a new rear section from scratch. Probably best to give it a bit of back pressure too.
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............and fitted
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Pictures of the descaling and painting job 24vster very kindly did on the K11 calipers for me last night, cheers mate :cool:
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When it got too late for noise again I knocked up the throttle cable using the K10 one and a Merc Vito rear door catch cable, just got to modify the bracket on the carbs to take the adjuster and it can be adjusted to suit.
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Still got to get a choke cable and plumb up the fuel and water.
Got the driveshaft collar from the machinist this evening too. The driveshaft is cut and coming to work with me tomorrow to be welded up so that'll be that sorted apart from the reassembly. (Y)

More soon!
 

superls

K10 Tuner
i dont know what carbs your using, or how the position of them is different to mine but i used the k10 throttle cable on its own and it was fine.
 
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superls - it might be because I've moved the engine over, the K10 cable probably would've fitted as was but it was a bit of a tight stretch so I made the new one.

Went out last night so no work got done last night, today however has been very productive!

Reassembled the front suspension and brakes, here's the nearside in all it's glory, this combination is a cut'n'shut K11 driveshaft, hub carrier, hub, brakes and bottom arms on a K10. And best of all? It works! (Y)
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Moved onto the plumbing next, after playing about with the hoses the time came to fill it back up with water.............and it leaked like a sieve from the back of the thermostat housing :( Further investigation revealed that the area that the bottom bolt goes into had broken off from the rest of the housing. Various expletives were swung immediately into action but when that approach seemed unlikely to solve the problem we resorted to plan b: Go down to the factors and purchase some jbweld (had to go down there to get a choke cable anyway so 2 birds one stone and all that)
On my return I got busy sticking the piece back in. Although the 'kwik' version of jbweld sets in 4 minutes, it takes somewhat longer to reach the concrete like consistency needed. With every ounce of self control I have I busied myself sorting out the fuel side of the plumbing whilst 24vster and the captain fitted the new (preowned) speedo cable, fuel pump relay and wiring.
By the time that had been done the jbweld had gone off enough to allow reassembly, and after much crossing of fingers the cooling system was refilled. Success again! No water leak!
The fuel pump was temporarily cable tied into the corner of the 'bay (it'll be fitted properly when the running gear comes back out for painting and prettying) and the battery tray and battery were put back in.
Ready to go :cool:
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Then came the moment of truth, would it start?































No, because in a moment of retardedness I put the supply and feed pipes onto the fuel pump the wrong way round
Once this had been identified, and I had been suitably pilloried for doing it we had another go...................................
And it started! :D :D (Y)
Whilst setting the timing it became apparent that the fuel was leaking out of the seals were the fuel pipe joins to the carbs, but it ran!
Off came the carbs again for some more dismantling, a further trip to Halfrauds for a box of assorted o-rings and some refitting saw it running again. Whilst balancing the carbs we noticed that at tickover the fuel pressure was too high for the float valves to stay shut meaning that we were again losing fuel, except this time out of the overflows.
Not having a fuel pressure regulator to hand meant resorting to the ghetto 'mole grips on the fuel pipe' method of fuel pressure regulation.
Got a video! :D


Got it running somewhere near right and got on with bleeding the brakes up, putting oil in the gearbox, refitting wheels, bumper and bonnet, moved the Datsun out of the way and took it out for a test drive. :cool:
It needs some more work doing on the carbs to get it to run right but it feels loads perkier than it did before and nothing knocks or rattles.
I just can't explain how over the moon I am that it actually runs! So stoked (Y)
More soon!
 
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Cleaning, don't you just love it?

frank - cheers dude :grinning:

superls - it's a '97 ZX9R pump, was hoping that the pressure cut would be a bit lower.

More progress!

Last instalment left off on Saturday night, it was running but felt starved at over 3k.
So back at HQ we downloaded the CBR600 HBOL and sussed out what size jets were in the other set of carbs that I bought first.
The ones on the car had 105 main jets in, the others had 120s in, along with larger slow running jets and emulsion tubes. These were removed and cleaned ready for Sundays escapades.
Sundays first job was to remove the carbs and swap the jets and emulsion tubes. This done they were refitted, balanced and a series of test drives were done ;)
Vast improvement! Starved feeling moved to 5.5 to 6K. More power at the bottom too, still feels torquey and pulls from low revs in top gear :D I've ordered a couple of drills to take the old jets out to 130 and 140 to see what effect this will have on the power.
This done and with the car still sat out on the road I cleared up the garage in readiness for the pretty up. By 11pm Sunday evening the engine bay looks like this:
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Today I started welding up the area behind the wiper motor......
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.........and started welding up the excess holes in the inner wings and chassis legs..........
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After dinner SWMBO got kitted out in an old pair of my overalls and got busy cleaning and degreasing the engine bay :grinning:
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.........whilst I got on with stripping and cleaning all the bits I'd taken off, taking a few reference pics along the way to aid reassembly
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SWMBO had finished the engine bay..............
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............and got stuck in cleaning bits with me :grinning:
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Meaning that by close of play this evening we had this pile of bits ready to paint/fit :D
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More soon!
 
OP
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It's so pretty!

sed5000 - cheers dude (Y)

Today, after a rainy ride over to my mates on SWMBOs moped to get some scotch pads and some 400 discs, I got to work getting some filler on the welding and flatting it all down.
Took a short break to fit a towbar to a friends Audi during which my mate turned up and started masking and getting some primer on. After dinner we were straight back out there, here's Charli putting the first coat of basecoat on
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Second coat of basecoat
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Ist coat of topcoat
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And partially demasked after the second top coat!:grinning:
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So stoked, thank you so much Charli, you're a ######ing star! (Y)
 

imp124

Buy & Sell Member
this is really looking good, not only is it a good project that is often talked about but never done, but you also have the full 'blog story' to go with it :)

Hope to see another update soon!

Steve

P.S. what plans do you have for the car-b-q ?? :)
 
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More stuff to clean, more stuff to paint!

imp124 - Steve, your wish is my command :grinning:

nexussteve - At the moment I'm gonna say yes, This weekend should see the carbs set up (hopefully) then I'm gonna try and do a cheeky rolling road sesh to find out for sure. It feels a heap better already with the bigger slow running jets in it pulls really strongly from low revs and the noise makes me grin like a loony :p

PrOgReSs!

Yesterday was mainly spent realising just what a small proportion of the engine bay stuff I'd actually cleaned up! So lots more cleaning, painting, threading loom and brake lines all whilst trying not to scratch the paint. I think that could be why I don't usually 'do' shiny, reassembly has been such a slow process.
Close of play yesterday
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Today saw more of the same, 7pm:
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Yesterday I'd been to Sainsburys to buy some tea strainers, erm I mean air filters. This evening it was time to make them fit. Take 4 potential air filters......................
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...................and rework into something that'll stop leaves/stones/nuts and bolts/small children being sucked into the carbs
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Then put the engine back in, Close of play tonight, nearly plumbed :D
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Damn postal strike means it looks like it'll be Saturday before my re-jetting drills turn up, Nevermind, more soon!
 

Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
told you dealer new! :D lol you gonna be shinying up the outside with that colour? its looking dreamy!
bet you cant wait till you get some road beneath ya!
 
Fantastic build, I've really enjoyed seeing the progress.

BUT please lose the gauze, they neither filter the air or help the flow. Get some proper filters on there as soon as possible.
 

frank

Club Member
i think the filters will be fine (a big surface area, and i ran my super s with no filter at all for a couple of years :wasntme:)
better still, now run 4 pipes through the bulkhead exiting behind the dash :cool: (then buy a motorbike intercom for you and any passengers lol)
 
i think the filters will be fine (a big surface area, and i ran my super s with no filter at all for a couple of years :wasntme:)
better still, now run 4 pipes through the bulkhead exiting behind the dash :cool: (then buy a motorbike intercom for you and any passengers lol)

Ha Ha! love it!
fantastic work mate, looks show and shine tastic!:D
 

Shero

Ex. Club Member
this is in fast car, the pics pretty small, but its only in the "next mont" bit, so mite be some bigger pics.

Oh aye and, well done mate, u shure dont p-iss about. :D
 
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