Micra will not start. U1000/U1001

Hi all,

New to the forum. Joined because I'm having a nightmare of a time fixing my Micra.. Lengthy post, sorry.

Car decided to intermittently not start (turn over) one day. Go on/off a few times with key and eventually would start. This then got worse to the point where it was more common it wouldn't start. It then started to discharge the battery overnight. (I did notice a few times it sounded like the boot lock was clicking away to itself)
Now we are at a point where it refuses to turn over at all.

On plugging in my diagnostic reader the IPDM returned a code of U1000. and the engine (I presume ECU) a code of U1001.

So far I have done a multitude of things to rectify but had no joy.
New battery just in case the old one is knackered.
Left key on in the on position for ten or so minutes hoping it is immobiliser. (key in car light on the dash goes off)
Removed earth points I can see. cleaned up and put copper grease on bolt and put back.
Removed and re-seated cables to see if there is a dry joint.
removed and re-seated all fuses and relays (also checked all fuses with a multi meter)
Checked relays on a relay tester all test ok.

I then got to the point of looking at buying parts for it.
New ignition switch (new from Nissan)
Replaced relays in the IPDM for ECM, Starter and Ignition (new from Nissan)
I then found a used IPDM on eBay. (read online they do not need to be coded in) So I bought it... This where the story gets interesting. After clearing the codes for the ECU and IPDM (the U1000 and U1001) those codes no longer return... But it still does not start.
Of course I have no way of knowing if this used IPDM was a working one but for the price I thought it was worth a gamble.

I have bridged the starter and it does spin and turn the engine over so I know that is ok. And in the Diagnostic reader on live data I can see ignition switch registers as going on. But on trying to crank the signal for (starter relay request) this just has 'off' and shows no sign of sending a signal to the relay.

I'm sure I've tried other things and forgotten what they are now. But this is the most of it.

It does seem to me the issue is getting a start signal to the starter motor relay.. I would welcome any suggestions... I have run out of ideas.

I have toyed with the idea of bypassing the IPDM and running a wire to the starter relay. I'd rather not if I can help it but I'm running out of ideas.

Many thanks in advance.
Rob
 
OP
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Hiya, I'm in Milton Keynes.
I have been having another go at it and I think I've made some progress. I decided to trace all the ignition switch wires and check continuity to ensure there are no signal issues. All tested ok. I then decided to test the switch. I found all the pins had continuity at various points of the key position.... This is apart from the 'S' pin. My guess this is starter?! This connects to a white wire in the IPDM. Checking with multimeter I couldn't find any power/signal going to this wire. I unplugged the starter relay to find it went to a pin on there.... So, with a fuse inline I bridged the white wire to the positive on the battery (ignition switched on) and the engine fired right up.... I done this a few more times to be sure and went every time.
I now feel I've just been very unlucky. The fault was probably the IPDM or the relays and the ignition switch I replaced is also faulty. I have another ignition switch on order that will hopefully be here tomorrow.
 
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ok, so a new ignition switch sorted it for a day or two. It now will not start again but slightly different issue. It will crank over but not fire..
I'm not with the car but hoping it isn't the IPDM again!
Will be plugging in my diagnostic again tonight I'm sure!
 
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No. NATS has never been an issue during any of this. I in fact tested this theory.

With the now spare ignition switch I plugged it into the loom with no key anywhere near the ignition. Powered switch on and NATS light was flashing rapidly. Put key in ignition and NATS light goes off. I'm 100% this isn't immobiliser related.
But thank you for the suggestion.
 
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Plugged in Diag and no fault codes in any ECUs... Cranked and it started first time. I then done this again another ten or so times and no issues... I've no idea what is going on with it.
 

huttojb

Club Member
EPS System Guru
This doesn’t look like an eps issue but infact a wiring mechanical issue? Did you resolve?

Jason.
 
is the nats light flashing ?
Hey frank, in another post you said that if the nats light is solid it indicates a key fault. However if the nats light flashes rapidly when trying to start then it indicates an electric/mechanical fault.

Where would you start to look to diagnose the electric/mechanical fault for a flashing immobiliser? I know 100% the key is perfectly good. Any ideas Thanks
 

frank

Club Member
Hey frank, in another post you said that if the nats light is solid it indicates a key fault. However if the nats light flashes rapidly when trying to start then it indicates an electric/mechanical fault.

Where would you start to look to diagnose the electric/mechanical fault for a flashing immobiliser? I know 100% the key is perfectly good. Any ideas Thanks
i never worked on a k12 mate, so dunno tbh
 
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