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Micra Urban Van.

Ment to post this the other day but it didn't seem to upload I'm looking at the drive shaft passenger side into gearbox for any sign of a leak.?
Maybe someone has had this problem before and can confirm or give some info or advice.
Cause I'm not really sure exactly what I should be looking for or even if I'm looking in the right area atm.
 

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So I have decided for now I'm going to just get under and find out what's going on.
I've ordered the seals just incase that way if its that I can put one in when ready.
But first I'm going to throughly check and see what it might be more accurately.
And I also just got the bush and bearing removals tool because it saves the hastle of making up a custom tool and also struggling on with that rear axle Bush on both sides.
I've also had a look around to find a decent mechanic that's near by.
Gonna go for looking for gearbox part number check the fill port and drain port the drive shaft into box. The dip stick cause that is also suspect.
 

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Right I've had a look and taken photos.
I can see this so far.
My gear box breather pipe not seated.
I look around the axle it looks fine to me from under the car.
Next I'm wiping off all the muck at bottom and decide I should look back of engine.
Oh wait oil all around the filter.
Thats fresh clean oil not a leak?
Looking up further I can see oil on some wiring and pipes.
Leading upto the air-box housing.
Does look like that might be a Gasket failed on top of engine.

So I've remove the axle stands now cause it's not the gearbox or axle cv.
The boots look alright not torn or ripped.
Some thing else I notice two bolt look to be missing at the top of air box at the rear of they are small holding a fixing plate.
Not sure why they are missing and I don't remember it being that way before. Maybe I just didn't notice that.

Is it common for a leak at the top of the engine on the head Gasket cause that's how it looks.
I cleaned off everything I can reach with break cleaner the sub frame was really covered in muck and oil.
So now I'm going to just let it settle and see what happens.
While I work out how to replace or renew the Gasket.

I wonder if it will need an actual gasket or sealant.
This could be repaired hopefully other wise the car has got to be probably scrapped.
 

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Found one of those antenna adapters that look to be a match on amazon and its way cheaper than the original.
I don't need one but if someone has same problem of it sticking or snapping it's a good replacement option.
 
Just ordered this for the case cover at top my guess is this is the correct area of the leak it maybe simple fix for me to repair.
My only problem not sure if I need liquid gasket or rubber.
I will find out once its removed.
It may be liquid so this is my reason for getting this product as the engine is a later model. Not sure when they changed over from rubber gasket to liquid but chances are it will be the latter.
Plus side to this I can replace the spark plugs and have a look at the old ones.
I will do this shortly probably next week. Have just added a rubber gasket to my list so I have one as backup.
was unable to get a idler pulley tensioner yet so will try again with that and see what size the nut is since its probably still fine bearing wise.

Once this is done I'm going to go back to the manifold and try some other methods to get the last bolt removed its going to be either hammer n chisel or some spanners that fit hard to reach places then it should be free.
 

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Today the plan was to try again on the belt replacement got everything ready but am unable to find the actual belts.
Its not that urgent to be replaced and I'm still waiting for the gasket to arrive for top of engine that I think is more important to do.
 
Just got the engine top rocker cover gasket. Looks rather bigger or thicker than expected so glad I got even if it ends up being another spare item.
A quick view under the car again did not show any signs of anything at all I'm quite surprised now and wonder if it was false identification of an actual problem.
I doubt its nothing tho because it rather messy at the back of the engine and it must have came from somewhere.
Will continue to monitor it and probably should look closer again soon.
 
Mid torque vs high is much more beefy.
Heavy though.
Thought I would show since the mid is pretty useless for wheel bolts or lug nuts apparently.
This high torque model is nearly on par with what is used in garages meaning equivalent to air tools.
Slightly less power but still it can remove items that are a struggle by hand.
I'm quite strong and noticed it takes alot of effort this sometimes makes a job a real task rather than an enjoyable experience.
Been waiting for a discount and got 40 pound off making this product affordable.
I advise you grab one because it won't be around for long.
 

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While changing the alternator belt I noticed the discs are starting to rust with standing.
Been looking at ways to possibly clear it off with minimum efforts.
Not sure how long it would take tho it probably won't last very long but I would like to try and make them look nice again.
Planning on using a wire wool or brush or wet n dry sand papers not quite sure if its something that's recommended tho.
My only issue will be the weather as I'm going to be checking on the belt so I'm pretty much working in that area anyways so might as well try something at least on driver side and see if it can look nice again.
Will also take some snaps of the problem areas that I'm most concerned about.
 
Testing a few sand paper, wire wool and also a grinding stone. On the old disc.
These I put away since removal.
They did get a few tries with rust remover then probably sanding for a couple mins.
This time I spent ages just to see what would happen.
They do seem to feel ultra smooth and flat after.
Main aim here was not to make them usable again but to test out what works the best and so far I don't really think any of these methods are that great since it takes a considerable effort and I can only just to say see the metal in one area.
Remember tho these have 100k plus on them so probably not the best example.
At least I know it's not a simple task but might not be as bad since mine are only showing light surface atm.
May try wire wheel on this next with the disc spinning and light pressure
A difference I'm noting here is the hat part on this must be coated and the brembs ain't. Kinda interesting for me anyways.
 

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Going to be looking at the idle speed as this seems to stay high from starting up for a good 10 to 15 mins.
So far I'm thinking that a good clean on the intake parts might help.
Also to change the spark plugs and then assess the o2 sensor and probably change them out.
Not really sure if that's the best action to take. Am wanting to try to lower the idle speed quicker. To save fuel although running is fine. While I'm on the hunt to find the oil leak. These items might as well have a check over. With intention of replacing and cleaning the parts.
 
And front calibers:
"Front calibers done, ducking cool! :cool:
Changed new discs and brake pads at same time, disches were worn under tolerance thickness. Discs were ordered with black paint from Germany.

Helpful videos for brakes:
How to replace front brake discs and brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 06:25

Nissan Note fitting front brake pads 10:18

How to replace rear brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 07:27

Nissan versa note rear brakes 16:40


Blue%20caliber_1_zpsz8wvmpse.jpg


Blue%20caliber_2_zpsuxeb30w0.jpg


Blue%20caliber_3_zps8jvrt64w.jpg


Blue%20caliber_4_zpsxw0m7vez.jpg


They wheels look like the Impul ones with that decal.look nice



"
 

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My calipers looked okay after painting black with some hamerite they didn't last long tho and paint has started to flake so they really need re-doing.
Was looking the other day and to replace them would probably give a more tidy look once painted.
I do have wire brushes in the tool box ready tho and might consider using silver or grey if any of that is remaining.
 
Small update on what I'm gathering while I have been away.
So it's been a long time wondering and have finally gotten most of the parts I need for pressure washer.
I'm awaiting a quick connect or two to finish the set up then I'm going to get to work on clearing my area as it's starting to look abit grubby with winter I plan on clearing the drive way as I failed last time cause of lack of power.
So what I got is a turbo nozzle (not to be used on vehicles)
A chem injector just because well I didnt really need one but might as well have the option to down stream warmer water perhaps unsure if that will work as I intend but worth a shot.
I got a snow foam lance ages back it all fits well.
Not interested in buying any actual snow foam yet its just to mix my current wash mixes in.
I've quick connected the lance so it's not as annoying.
This was great but the thread seemed to fall apart a little before install.
Not end of world it should be fine.
Also got some tips for the washer I'm guessing it's all just hype and I'm better off just washing it down the good old way.
Have not really done much for a while so this thread has been sleeping for a while.

I will upload a photo of the setup when it's all here and Im able to test each item.
My main aim is to use the turbo nozzle to clean away a rust spot that my exhaust has made due to its standing in the same spot for so long.
That and to make the zone more friendly when I return to project.
 
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Had a check on oil level today and have been looking to see why the dipstick tube is not held in place properly.
Some type of clip and I would expect some rubber o rings unsure really on this but I think the clip is missing.
I can move the tube back and forth side to side freely.
After looking at what other models of vehicles with this problem have done to resolve this.
I'm going to try remove it and the reinstall with something to hold it in place.
I would like to know where the said clip that's missing would attach.
Plan for me is to try to hold it in place with new o rings.
Try and figure out where a clip could be attached and recreate a tight fit that will not allow the tube to move about so much.
And possibly seal the area around the tube to help reduce movement.
 

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Have just got one of those die grinders.
Been looking for bits to use and not sure exactly what to get yet.
My first thought is I should try some sanding discs.
The smaller bits won't fit but can get arbours although I would guess they won't last much more than a second being the unit only has one speed.

Also I just got a super clamp for the air box it looks to be good if it fits that will be nice.

One of my quick connects arrived so my pressure wash can now use all the multi tools that I have gathered.
This will be useful as the car is in desperate need of a good wash.
Will be interesting to see how the chem injector does for applying some temprature into the mix.
Not really heard of anyone else using these.
They use something called venturi.
I have used a derect to hose pipe one and those are pretty darn useless only working when they are set at end of the hose.
Basically it vacuums the water from a bucket via the washers hose at exit side of machine.
This is nice but will only work with the black nozzle apparently although I might try with the foam cannon installed at some point.
Just waiting for the last quick connect to arrive so I can have them ready to click in place.

I'm waiting for some headlight restore that is ceramic coating it's gonna be a few month till I get it. Don't really expect it to restore the headlights as they do look like they want swapping out.
Might at least give a longer lasting coating tho.
 
Just been looking at the maxicom as it recharges from storage.

I found this saved information.
Did not know I had saved this before or if those faults cleared.
Eps/dast3 bcm ipdm e/r.

I know the car had engine swap that's about it the car doesn't show any obveous fault when driven.
Maybe this was a previous stored code.
 

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Going to be trying some ceramic coat on headlights shortly.
The product I have received seem to be fake according to some reviews online.
However the item seems to look decent in a box wrapped and looks pretty legit to me.
I do not expect much as my headlights are really bad condition to begin with.
My plan is to just clear them up then buff with the metal polish.
Dry them and try to apply this so called ceramic coating in the hope that I won't have to replace the headlight that has the most faded yellowing haze.
The product is called MR-FIX9H.
The instructions don't really say alot.
Anyways I'm going to see how it works and get some photos of the light before and after then a later shot when I think it would usually start to fade out again probably a month or so.
Well here is before after I'm not convinced it did anything it seemed like water but on other side could see some colour in the liquid.
They do look better for the buffing and I guess the haze has gone.
My guess is it will last about a week and then be yellow again as usual not bothered about renewing them they work still for now.
Another edit yesterday they look nice in the rain and the tops that appear yellow usually from in the cabin look shiny and new again this was the worst area and seems to have done the trick.
I did use two coats to try and get a lasting finish.
So I would say this product is worth the price at 6 pounds the only down side is its taken along time to arrive.
Tempted to try some on the panels once it's been thoroughly washed down.
The bottle must still have a quarter of the product left so maybe enough to do a couple of panels.

This is what it look like now from the driver seat that what why they needed tidying up and now they look clear and not Hazey.
 

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Need to get the lower control arms installed shortly.
Trying to recall what type of bolts are required for the ball joint end.
Will be giving it ago this week I really want to have everything on hand.

I'm suspecting a slight noise at front passenger side and after looking and testing for noises I think they finally do need swapping out.
Will try and find the cause still and see what I find first.
Then get the things needed should just be the two nuts and bolts.
Once done I intend to complete the engine bay tasks and see how it goes from here.
 
Full wishbones are cheaper than buying all of the bushings seperately.

there is a pair in the boot of my car ready for install this week..
 
Here is what I'm looking at been spraying stuff down for now 17mm bolt is required.
Have mainly checked tightness of the bolts in this area for now along with some bushing down of bolts on passenger side only.
It was one of the large bolts though the strut at bottom needed tightening up more.

I have taken photos of what I thought was the noise cause I'm hearing.
But after dropping back down and wheel back on I can't hear anything.
Will definitely change them next Time ut wanted to get an idea of what the bolt sizes and possibly troubles I might face during the removal.
 

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rear bushing is degraded but unlikely to be noise culprit. check the front bush too, they have a tie to the subframe and to the chassis member, inspection is done with the car in the air and trying to rock the wheel(pushing in and pulling out of the car not trying to steer the wheel) by hand.

Ball joint, can't tell from picture. with car on ramps so wheel is still in contact with ground (i.e. loaded) use a pry bar between the wishbone and hub to check for movement. excessive movement (3-5mm or more) means joint is kaput but really any movement suggests it should be replaced.
drop links (Anti roll bar) are a possible if the 1.2 has one. they are 14 quid, they aren't worth inspecting, if you've ruled out everything else, just replace)
track rod end does it clunk when you turn the wheel under motion? can you feel any rocking with the car stopped and trying to turn the wheel (better with engine off so no assitance) Checking, give the wheel a waggle both whilst loaded (sat on floor) and in the air, you will feel it as the wheel will rock (hands left and right) against the steering which shouldn't move if weighted. given tht the boot is split, it needs replacing. you should also be able to make it clunk by turning the steering wheel left to right whilst not in motion.


I can't find where you describe the noise you have, would you mind posting it again? perhaps get it up in the air and take some pictures with the wheel off too. :)


if by "large bolt through the strut" you are refering to the 2 that connect the bottom of the dampner to the hub, one is fixed, the other is for setting camber, if you've tighten one and it's moved the offset washer (the top one) you may have just moved your wheel out of alignment, which isn't great and will cause excess tyre wear and affect grip. would be surprised if this would be the culprit of any noise.
 
The car was on axle stand with wheel removed.
I get no movement at the wheel top to bottom left to right none.
I get no movement any place but the control arm up and down with crow bar.
This is the bolt in the rear part the bushing is perished in the image.

The bolt I tighten was the bottom of the two and It didn't move although I'm aware that alignment will need reset after changing the item.
I will check the other things you are suggesting tomorrow and see if I find anything else.
I did note it does clunk a little when turning the steering wheel not really concerned with that but will test when engine isn't started for a different view.

BTW thank you for giving me a few things to check as I'm still learning.

Edit :- track rod ends look old but no noises.
I had a look at the engine bushes that are at front not sure what they are named they seem solid but look not great condition.

I will put a diagram here and point to the areas I checked so far.
All I can Confirm this far is it makes the noise that sounds like what someone describes for pulling away as I'm experiencing pulling off the drive.
The sound is metallic rattle it only happens when reversing off the drive for a split second at the point of momentum then stops.
Will add the diagram here and add some pointers so you can see what was loose ect.
The two bolts number 6 bottom one suspension to knuckle is what had slight looseness.
Roll bars are new and we're no movement while on the axle stands
12 looks ugly but I feel the sound is more towards the rear of the front wheel if you get what I'm trying to explain.
Or nearest to the passenger side footwell.
I am aware that this could be mistaken but it sounds to be mid to low in terms of hight of the sound
Screenshot_2022-07-05-16-58-58_1_1.jpg
 
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that's lower camber bolt, don't worry about then.

sound only when reversing and not in forward motion, rattle sound. don't reckon that's anything on the suspension side as they tend to be clunks and knocks (big bits of metal moving about).
so check your pad retention plates, did you put any copper slip on the backs of the pads when you changed them to new? has one of the plates bent so it's loose on the pad backer? are the pad retainer clips still in place? these will all make a rattle if the pads move back when you reverse.

also check CV boot clip isn't touching anything, check both ends i.e. gearbox boot and CV boot.
also look at ABS ring and bearing lock ring, although these are well inside the knuckle so a lot of effor to check for minor noise.

only other thing, if you have lost the grease from the CV joints (which you mention some way back) then they can rattle on reverse, but they are also usually noise as hell when steering without grease.

did you find strut top covers? I've just 3d printed a set for mine. :)
 
I replaced the shims in the caliper housing and those I did originally suspect but then over looked because I was focusing on the suspension.
The Cv boots are intact as far as I know no problems there.
Did jump the gun and buy the seals for the axle.

That's probably what I hear those inside the break calipers.
I do recall sometimes it sounds like tin.
On passenger side it was tight fitting.
The pads did get some grease on backs although I think very light amount since they were taken back out to add the shims or retention plates if that is same thing.

I do have top covers that are plastic not the first ones but larger that fit over the top mount bolts on the struts so far they have been good even after heavy rains we had.


My plan is to change out them bits i have now (control arms) and then do an alignment if i can get that done and its okay i may continue with this car.

update on the headlights are looking dull again i cannot tell if this is just dust yet might spray down and check.
does anyone know the dimentions of the nut and bolt in this image i have searched and not got any results so far.
deezzzz.jpg
 
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As I found out tonight, they aren't standard and are thus nissan dealer parts to buy. Didn't replace mine. They are m10x1mm pitch I think. They are also 18 and 16mm sockets because why not use daft sizes. Front and rear wishbone mounts are the same. So before you even start id suggest you buy the those sockets along with a ball joint spliter. You can just about get one of these in but you need to use spacers (5mm, 10mm and 15mm) to push it out.

Took me 2 hours tonight which is depressing as it used to be 50 minutes to do a wishbone swap. Will update my car post later and stop filling yours up.
 
Have one already splitter, My bolts are spanner size 17 mm and the nut 17 mm also.
im going to remove one to see what thread size and length the two other bolts i think looked okay.

The socket set should work for each size that was one of the things i was testing for incase i'm missing a size.
You can also use a pickle fork to remove the ball joint.
Just a reason to test out the impact wrench because the other one i had was not very powerful.

also i spray everything down that i want to remove at one side that way it should make it go more smoothly.
another thing i suggest is this cussion for resting on my side always gets cut on the concrete while working under the car i forgot to use it last time but shall be using that from now on,
 
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I was knocking all the rust off and brushing for a while i could have used a hammer to knock more maybe but the socket fitted tightly and it felt to be right with the 17mm at both sides

found them just now

Suspension Control Arm Pinch Bolt - fits Nissan Cube Juke Micra Note NV200 x2

 
Yer I thought that too. Till I got the rust off and nearly rounded it off with a 17mm. 😂
That is a speciality it seems its happen with almost every bolt on mine so far 😬
I have ordered those bolts it helps give me a little assurance I think best measure for saftey also.
 
When you remove the bolt, your going to need to tap it out. Release the nut and wind it off then put it back on 3 threads. Socket on the bolt, turning it and hammer the nut to move it. It will be tight as a tight thing. Once you get most of it out you might need a punch but it might come out after that

To fit the splitter in you need to turn the wheel so the front of the disc is out. Again, expect tight as a tight thing. Impact gun is a useful tool. Won't work on the front mount though, rubber Bush will adsorb the energy.
 
I was wondering about the splitter tool it looks different but should work.
And I got some cold chisels with a few punches.
The down side with the impact is its really heavy to hold. Does save time just I notice you do not really need it apart from stubborn odd bolts.
Main thing I find is to alway double check with sockets and wrenches because I seem to have a world record at rounding them out on this micra.
 
Got the bolts today they are 10.8 grade.
Not sure when I will get back to this they are the correct part tho and I'm happy to have replacments for these.
And I belive they are important to be the correct type..
 

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Got all the parts now that I think I'm gonna need.
I have to pick a few things to do next and those will be the top of engine I need to see what's happening and figure out where the minor leak is if it even exists.

Once I'm happy with that or at least confident it's been repaired. I will swap those suspension strut bolts for the new uns, see how I get on I don't want to do too much before it's next mot.

I got a hex key set for socket set as I don't think I'd be able to tighten em up very well without.
The stub drill bits are slightly longer than expected.
Will need to test if they are robust enough at least at best I will know if I have enough room to use them.
The bolts are much better quality even though my first thoughts were they might be over kill for my purpose I do see that they much stronger material.

And yeah before I forget the headlights are very dull yellow again they lost the shine at the tops mainly.

58198.jpg
 
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Just had the air box off as I'm looking for oil leak I found.
The first pot was oily I had oil on the ratchet before the plug was pulled.
Any how I've changed the plugs.
And cleaned the throttle body with some carb clean.

I think the oil is coming from the first pot not sure what this means yet but decided to put all back how it was with the new plugs.
Here is a what I'm looking at.
The intake seals may need replacing.
 

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Just had the air box off as I'm looking for oil leak I found.
The first pot was oily I had oil on the ratchet before the plug was pulled.
Any how I've changed the plugs.
And cleaned the throttle body with some carb clean.

I think the oil is coming from the first pot not sure what this means yet but decided to put all back how it was with the new plugs.
Here is a what I'm looking at.
The intake seals may need replacing.
Sounds like a poorly sealed/seated plug washer, causing blow back from the cylinder into the plug aperture in the head to me.
 
That Is interesting John I was wondering if it were the plug seal because the first one was not as tight as the others.
And after looking around with the torch I don't feel it's coming from below that area on outer side as I see oil very high up.
Another thing I'm seeing is the air box has 1 cracked plastic at the bolt point at the rear.
Not sure how important this is but it seems to have been over tighten at some point.
I'm glad to have had a look now because I can see and have more idea where I want to go from here.
Edit :- when re seating the coil packs that one did not seat properly so had to clean them up a little as to give a better seal.
Not really sure if this will solve the problem but is certainly been worth while checking.
Thank you for your reply John
 
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Are these the seals you are saying and not the ones on the sparkplugs?
 

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Are these the seals you are saying and not the ones on the sparkplugs?
No, the spark plug washers, those are the inlet manifold seals, any leak there would 'just' cause the cylinder it feeds to run weak as it would allow ingress of air, not exude oil....
A pressure leak at the spark plug seal will probably cause an occasional misfire on that cylinder due to the hot oil getting to the coil pack connection to the plug...
 
I have an air filter box replacement ordered that way I'm able to check the status.
As the intake air gaskets are torn. On what looks like tabs?

Was reading how the oil being in the pots may cause misfiring that I have not experienced alot of. but think I did once over very slightly when the exhaust was change.
It can also cause problems with the coil pack and spark plug.
 
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First hole next to the filler cap. Just saying, having seen how folks pour oil like its gravy. 🤣. Clean it out. Run it for a week. Then check again. Plug compression washer is a possibly although you don't normally get oil blow past in a petrol 4 stroke.
Cam cover seal would be my guess. Easy enough to replace. Do the whole set.
 
As far as it's been has ran absolutely fine and the only thing I've really noticed was a slight smell but I had put this down to being because the car is standing and not being driven alot.
I'm looking at a gasket kit that contains everything seems to be the best option for me right now.
The plugs were not tight as they should be.
I will be looking into it further shortly.
Looks more like a case of the brown rain☔ to me than gravy. 😁

I don't do the oil change myself but it was changed at last service.
And I think it's been spilled onto the top because in an earlier post I mentioned at the back of the engine was clean oil...
 
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