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Micra Urban Van.

The cold is getting to my battery I start every day just about and its sounding weak.

Also my sticker has lost its blade due to removing ice.
 
Today car frozen over like ice berg.
I removed all snow yesterday.
Problem I'm facing is the door keep freezing and I can't get in easy.
I've dryed out the inner door seals and framing.
Started up alright to say I'm in a shaded and icey spot.
Suprised really because I thought it was going to not turn after yesterday's snow.
Also found my sticker blade on the gravel so that's not going to go on and I think I'm gonna remove the sticker as it now looks a bit naff.
 
Have you tried silicone/rubber rejuvenator on the door seals? If it's the lock, I dunno, silicone oil maybe? (Course you have, don't mind me).
Here in the Land of the Finns we use silicone on the door seals, works at -27C. Mine is like giant lipsick ~12cm, roll a little bit and smear to seals.
Gun oil is good for locks, it doesen't freeze easily.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
In the past I have found that spraying the rubber door seal with 'Mr Sheen' silicone furniture polish, prevented the rubber sticking to the door.....
 
Drivers door won't open from inside I'm sat in car trying to get back out.
This isn't ideal time for this to happen

Took door card off right chew on anyhow off the door card then pulled the handle and what do you know it works again every time.
Very strange.

Been out and door still opens alright no idea why it wouldn't open from inside.
 
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Got a tyre pump that is cheap but works.
I coupled this up with a cigar lighter adapter that plugs into the wall to help save draining the battery.
Aired up the drives side wheel as this one was looking desperate for air.
Takes forever to fill just one but it worked well and double use I can fill my bike tyres in comfort without having to break out the manual double barrel pump.
I also have gotten some metal polish to be used for the headlights when the weather gets better.
And a bottle of back to black for tyre and trim.
I missed off my list headlight sealer but I have some left over.

Ring rac pump. (bit disappointing but does the job and isn't terribly loud)
240v Adapter to cigar socket (very nice)
 
Door won't open today again from inside.
Cannot feel any tension on the handle.
Going to have to leave it now and put up with it for a while but I will replace the cable if needed.
Might be cause the door stuck that day frozen and today the car is an iceberg.
It started up alright tho we are about - 3.5c so it's rather cool was - 6 last night.
This is rather extreme for North of England.

So it's a straight forward repair job after researching the cable is either broken or its came off the latch.
I'd just probably replace the part.
Its a common fault and is an item that is used every day so to be expected.
Didn't think it would last very long after it worked again when removing the door card It looks like a bicycle cable.
I didn't really look in detail what the problem is I think the torch is needed to give me a good view of what it looks like where it meets the mech.
Hopefully it won't be an expensive fix.
 
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Okay none micra related.
Much as I'd like to work on the micra ASAP.
The corsa D has thrown the seat belt tensioner lights on both front seat belts.
And the airbag light is on.
This vehicle previously had issues of not wanting to move and the rear drums seem to have been seized after standing a long time.
Any how I'm looking at getting a tool so I'm able to replace the tensioners if it's both side I don't know.
Could try removing the negative terminal for a quick repair.
However I want to clear the code and replace the items that caused problem.
So what I'm looking at is an autel scanner probably the cheaper one of what's available.
If anyone has any info about these pretensioners or other related to the scan tools please let me know.
Edit:-
Okay as others online suggested I removed the negative terminal for 30 seconds.
After this time probably longer I turn the key and the issue still shows the same.
So this is what caused the problem while driven the car braked and stalled on the road that's all I know.
It was not a collision or reason for bags to deploy but only enough to cause the belt tensioners to activate sadly this means the seats need to be removed and the belt clips tensioners must be replaced.
This is what's to be expected with newer cars.
Now I'm left with 2 options fix it myself by getting the parts and the computer.
Or take to the garage who should have noticed the rear breaks were binding in the first place now I have 2 problems that potentially need solving.

Edit 2 :-
I have inspected visually, Looked up how a tensioner should look before and after deployment.
Confirmed that they have not been deployed. From what I see they look like before and after but don't have live data to double check via this method.
 
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Okay so I have ordered autel MD 802
To do the fault find on the corsa.
It should be straight forward and in guessing to find a loose wire or shielding problem under one of the seats as I tend to have to run the seat back a lot when I get in and this is a common fault.
Although it could have been triggered and I would like to get a view of why and what caused it.
I also will be glad to have this device as it should be great addition for problem solve in future for the micra.
 
This is the fault on the corsa I really want this sorted soon as possible.
It still drives fine however its a shame that the light is flashing.
The method in manual says press the button for some set time then its ment to beep as far as I'm aware this is for disabling/enabling the passenger side for installment of a baby seat.
No beep is heard and nothing changes via the button.
The wires under seats have covers with a red tab on them I have looked at them and checked the wires are not pulled tight.
I am going to find the code first before any further action will be taken as the car isn't mine.

The diagnosis tool I've ordered has been cancelled as I got message early this morning saying it would not be compatible.
Very disappointed and not sure what to do next.


 
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Don’t forget some seats have pads in sparky so if someone’s had the knee in seat it can send the lights on not just the pre charged belts . Hope you get it sorted 👍vans look nice.
 
Something I read, said it could also throw the code. While been left standing over winter. This I guess true though it does get regular start ups, an odd trip out.
Seats could have had that done maybe.
When reaching for items from other side unsure..
So far I'm now looking at getting something called op-com the best version unsure at this point all I know is this is something that might be able to read find and help to solve then clear the code.
Worth a try and will be nice to actually get the laptop in use on the car.
This is originally what I would have liked to do with the micra but so far didn't really find anything suitable for software to connect with..Though there are some but maybe rather expensive.
 
Okay so I got the tool this is what it looks like.
I had to do a few tweaks and try versions of the opcom.
No luck so far I had tryed this and fail to get them menu screen showing me the vehicles listing.
Anyhow today I look again and search out for vaux com the one came bundled with a firmware update software.
So have been testing and downgrading the firmware as a test and to see what happens it probably works at 1.99 even tho they saying that's not a real one.
I'm now at v1.45 I get slight unresponsive window while loading this is expected in windows 10 especially since this laptop is well over the age for the operating system.
However it still manages to work.

So ya now that I can see the screen I'm presented with a menu.
Airbags ect.. I don't however see anything for seat belt pretensioners yet but that might appear once hooked up to the vehicle.
So far I'm very impressed that it even might work and even better I might one day be able to adjust or turn off the day time running lights

But for now I shall concentrate and see if it can show me a fault code I guess.
Since that's the main reason for this opcom tool.
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So now I'm in in car with the set up I can already see the seat belt on passenger seat is lower than the driver seat.
That part must be replaced I think but let's see what the opcom says
The tool isn't reading anything yet seems like it needs more information to connect. Not sure how to access this yet.
Plus side I can see and fix the problem easy but to clear I need to be able to talk to the car to do this.
So the obvious is a cm difference between the height of both seat belt clips.
I need to find more info hopefully I can get it other wise it's down to the dealership to repair this problem and that's lame because at the most it would cost me less than 50 pound to repair including the tools as they require torqs for the seat bolts.
 
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I'm going to try and wire in the reverse camera today maybe this time I will see past what looked like a taped up loom and get the thing connected.
Yeah I want to work at the micra still.
The airbag thing can wait till I find the numbers and laptop needs to recharge.
 
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That wasn't as complicated as I thought but best to do it right rather than hit the wrong wire and make more problems.
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By the looks of my cam position a can go alot closer than where it's saying to stop but it looks alright for now.
 
Next on my list is pressure washer fittings I want to be able to use the karcher on the workzone and also any aftermarket tools such as the snowfoam lance or modify so I can link into an old lance so it will draw from a bucket.
The other reason is so I can brush wash the driveway as it doesn't look that nice after winter.
Fittings are slightly different and it can be a right headache finding what fits properly.

So far as I have found the main fitting to get is the one that connects to the unit itself as this one then connects the lance you intend to use.

In this case the inner diameter is different I can get it to fix to the unit but the workzone is a larger size for the sealed fitting.
 
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Trying again with the vauxcom no power from car seems abit odd I could try different software version but I think possibly it's locked from my view?

So my test for today was unplug the wires under the passenger seat and clip em back in.
Didn't expect anything to change really and nowt happen.
I do have another idea tho is to try my obd2 streetwise and see if that can read from the car or not maybe that would work and then I could confirm if its letting data transfer or not.
 
Alright so now I went back to the start and used a setup guide showing me to run in compatible mode xp sp2.
I'm now running 2014 version.
And so far I have figured the reason it might not be seeing as I did not add the engine code name.
This I was unsure what to input and was just selecting the year.
Hopefully tomorrow it works I was about to give up..
Managed to grab the seat belts number also that may be helpful as I already know this is the fault before the software tells me.
Oh yea and the driver had to be installed named opcom not the USB to serial converter.
If it doesn't work on third attempt I will return the product.



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Something I noticed while adding the reverse sense wire for rear camera.
I already knew I could see bubbled paint behind the light last time.
Also I didn't take a photo but the light seem to not have the rear seal or padding and I'm thinking this might have caused the bubbling.
It does not look good at all but I'm sure it will easy to repair.
Wondering if anyone else has found this before?
Screenshot_20210317_001957.jpg
 
Can see the fault code window now and the airbag window also opens.
I did get connection to engine but the airbag module and code faults not showing up its says busy.
It can see all the items but no display on the ohms resistance.
This I think would've shown me what's not right.
I've tryed with engine in pos 2 and while started.
This is the corsa BTW.
Edit had another go this afternoon with the software that was sent to me again I had same problem it did open properly then next thing it was saying unable to connect.
3 possible versions of software no manuals really confusing to me as a begginer on this sort of thing.
Not sure if anyone interested in this sort of thing I guess I can try a few different options or buy another and see if that works.
Anyhow I will leave this at this point now as I'm unable to view any codes
Time for me to give in an buy the autel unit I think originally I did but the version was incorrect hopefully I can find one that going to be compatible with both cars and can see me into the future of motors.
One thing thats a down side they do not work for electric vehicles I'm saying this because future proof they are not in the long term.
Autel maxicom mk808..

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When I first got the micra I had the idea I want to put a new plate on it took me a while to decide and I eventually got the one I wanted.
Just don't want to put it on and then have to take back off to put on a van or whatever comes next.
This is a preview of part of what I got

Maybe I should put it against the car and see if it feels right or not dunno it needs drilling tho
Reminds me of the pre 2000s plates with less numbers,
I was going between this look or an Irish style plate they are okay but I couldn't quite get what I was looking for.
Didn't want to get 3d embossed I think it was called tho as I've been looking at those and they don't look that great.
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I have removed the rear plate it was abit messy and rusty behind this plate with slight bubbled paint not too bad but wants sorting shortly.
Cleaned it all up and drilled the new plates.
Screwed them on they look great I'm very pleased.
After this I couldn't wait any longer and have decided to assign them to the car.
 
Well after a few looks at the autel I have found that it requires an update will see how it goes tomorrow and try it on the micra as well cause that's where its going to be used the most I think
 
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Back to the corsa this time I decided clear the codes as its an error made by something to do with plugging or unplugging the unit while the software was running probably..
Anyways I looked at the airbag list and it says that the passenger seat is buckled like it must remain in that state after the tensioner has fired.
The button in the center does work when I press and unpress.
So now it just wants the buckle renewing and the problem is resolved.
All the voltages at the airbags ect seem to be within good range also according to a video I recently viewed that had similar problem with the same area of car.
The screen is abit glared as the sun is on the car can see the important part.
I did also try bucking and releasing the passenger side to see if the status would change with no result.
When doing so on drivers side this one functions as one would expect.

Now I just need to get the two torque bits of correct size for seat and buckle and also the pretensioner for the seat that has both wires preferably but I don't think it's essential. Will go with the right one tho as it's not much different in price.

This diagnosis machine is quite good and I would recommend it to others that are interested in electronic repairs maybe a bit costly but it does help.
And if it work as well on the micra I will be very happy indeed.
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Okay so I been having a few ideas about this airbag issue.
And something that I remember was the car was getting alot of frost on that side all winter and when I was warming it up before work it was always getting humid at that side of the window.
In that pillar is a curtain airbag and this is what was saying low voltage.
No mention of the seat tensioner.
The only thing that's pointing to the belt is it saying its buckled as though someone sat in the seat.

So my options are to try replace the buckle and wires see what happens.
Though I'm guessing it could be a wire inside that pillar on the curtain airbag.
 
I'm wanting to sort out a few things the speaker is blowing on passenger's side.
Not sure if it's something else causing the sound or just need replacing I need to look at it soon.
Also I'm trying to figure out how one can hook up the steering wheel audio controls to work with the aftermarket radio.
Seems that I need to buy an adaptor and wire it into the loom some how.
This seems to be the only way it would be great if I had some guidance as to what adapter would work and how to wire such as a diagram basic for this project.
this one will work and is plug and play or least looks to be what is phone button tho ?

incartec.co.uk/product/Nissan-Micra-K12-Note-Audio-Steering-control
dynamicsounds.co.uk/connects2-ctsns007-2-nissan-micra-note-steering-wheel-control-stalk-adaptor.html

Edit:- had a look at the speaker it appear to be find visually no wire loose as far as I could see..
Tryed to rearrange the push clips amd deleted the old one that was probably an original that was no longer re-usable.
Door carde is now held firmly in position around the areas of the speaker leaving me one that needs replace down in the bottom middle.
Had another try and it sounds horrible not sure so much why other than maybe the magnet is wornout or my music quality is just crap.
Anyhow I think best to replace them as they don't really look that good anyways.
 

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Right so I plugged the daig tool into the micra. My first problem is auto detect not finding the vin number.
When I do the manual input method doesn't seem to work.
I can read all the codes ect I'm guessing or feeling slightly limited tho.
Maybe this is due to the engine been replaced not sure.
I've tried in both or all positions with key.
Alls I wanted to see is the unit detect the car via vin number auto search or at least manual but they don't seem to be.
While I was doing this when I looked up at the dash in center the mile gauge or console was showing stop and visit a Nissan dealer! Hmm why?
This was while I was clearing the codes that it also showed on my first try with the corsa.
I'd say the tool does work well but not sure what use it is to me at this stage for the micra.
Image below shows that what I can see.
And this is about same as the obd2 streetwise dongle?
Anyways kinda disappointing.
What it should be doing is find the vin auto detect.. Otherwise I think it's communication issue and limited functionality.
The oxygen sensors keep saying lean and then rich.
Mostly lean occasional rich, probably because the car needs a good run out.
Plus side it didn't say anything was wrong.
I did try to record the screen while it was running but don't think it saved. Maybe I will find it later.


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Was washing the micra a few day ago and noticed that the rear alloy paint is starting to crack again on the inners of the spokes.
Its only been roughly a year and I did not really do a great job of the rear as they were not very nice to start with.
Just thinking that they been sun baked as its only the one wheel I can see this on.
I'm not going to bother re doing it and I have done very little with the micra for a while. But other than that it's still with me and everything has been okay. Just thought I would drop by as I have not been here for some time now.
 
I'm wanting to sort out a few things the speaker is blowing on passenger's side.
Not sure if it's something else causing the sound or just need replacing I need to look at it soon.
Also I'm trying to figure out how one can hook up the steering wheel audio controls to work with the aftermarket radio.
Seems that I need to buy an adaptor and wire it into the loom some how.
This seems to be the only way it would be great if I had some guidance as to what adapter would work and how to wire such as a diagram basic for this project.
this one will work and is plug and play or least looks to be what is phone button tho ?

incartec.co.uk/product/Nissan-Micra-K12-Note-Audio-Steering-control
dynamicsounds.co.uk/connects2-ctsns007-2-nissan-micra-note-steering-wheel-control-stalk-adaptor.html

Edit:- had a look at the speaker it appear to be find visually no wire loose as far as I could see..
Tryed to rearrange the push clips amd deleted the old one that was probably an original that was no longer re-usable.
Door carde is now held firmly in position around the areas of the speaker leaving me one that needs replace down in the bottom middle.
Had another try and it sounds horrible not sure so much why other than maybe the magnet is wornout or my music quality is just crap.
Anyhow I think best to replace them as they don't really look that good anyways.

Hey sorry I didnt see this earlier, I havent read through your thread in a hot minute. The adapters for the steering wheel controls are what you want yes, they're the ones for the older 6 CD changer, hence why it says Micra or Note. I got the CONNECTS2 CTSNS007.2 in the 2nd link and it works for the up/down and left/right buttons, but doesnt seem to do anything for the SRC button, but I don't care too much since all I wanted was volume and track skip anyway. It's as simple as plugging it in between the original Micra ISO and the ISO to your stereo loom, and then it comes with instructions for how to connect the steering controls wire, shows you how to do it depending on your brand.

Also for the next post, the OBD tool just saying lean or rich is normal - it's not a wideband, all the O2 sensor ever gives out is 'Too rich' or 'Too lean', and then the ecu works out from how often it flips between rich and lean if it's running fine, or if there's an actual issue and it needs to change something. Most of these tools are just the same as a generic ELM 327 clone chip and a free app on your phone, it's only the proper expensive stuff that can do more than that
 
The corsa has started to develope an engine misfire. I suspect this to be the coil pack at a wild guess.
It misses every so often and runs horrible.
Have recharged the battery fully.
Trying to figure out what will point to the problem via the maxicom.
I'm thinking coil pack and or sparkplugs.
Could be something else tho fuel related.
😕
The light came on showing a car with spanner inside this points to electrical fault.
P0300 intermittent
P1700 not present
P2544 not present
I do not think the last two are a problem just the P0300.
Engine runs but splutters a little and when light came on I heard a rough or banging sound. And when careful listen to the engine run from the rear I can hear a light whooshing sound.

It will go in for a repair if I cannot find the problem I really prefer that to happen but still like to diagnose and get some use from the maxicom.

When looking up the misfire it says sometimes water gets in where sparkplugs and coils are seated.
I think that I've heard some of the noises I explained in the frosty weather but the engine mis firing is something that has just started to happen.
The car was not getting started or run for long periods such as over a week or more in some cases and being driven very very little recently this year.

Going to give it a try and see if I can do it myself I want to get the delphi pack cause thats what the garage will use.
And spark plugs.

I had my driving test about a week ago did not pass yet but will next time..

Just got the coilpack today its a one unit item chosen delphi technologies as they are now known rather expensive but should solve the problem.
To couple this I got the ngk plugs as I would imagine best to replace while open.
Once I get a moment it will go in and should be a job done.
Interested to see what it actually may look like and or what the root of the problem maybe.
 
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Just got to work with the corsa took awhile to get the pack off really stuck in place.
Its all changed now and the engine runs nice again im really pleased.
Cleared codes and started up once the changes were made.
Just wants a run out now to confirm.

Pots 1 and 4 are the ones that the plugs corroded and I had trouble removing the coil pack and one of the rubber boots torn as it stuck in the port.
The ports are very clean and dry no sign of any water or oil.
This should have been done with the micra though it has not missed a beat and I think that is amazing.
Now know what to expect though and to be more careful with skinning my knuckles.
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Been checking out how to remove those rear axle bushings.
Seems that a drill and a hacksaw is about all that's needed for a tool-less removal. Not sure if I will just get the tool or not.
Also might be a good idea to get the replacement bolts.
Plan to change them to Polly bushings and put the struts in.
The problem for me is making a start on the work.
For now though I'm glad cause I can get the rest of the items and know that I will get it done and be completed without having to go back and change out those bushing later on.
My needs now are source the correct bushings and bolts that are important then decide when to start.
My next task tho is to get part number for corsa pre tensioner and have that replaced before next mot.


Rear axle/spring Parts list
55020B - NUT -Find size
55020D - BOLT - Find size
55020H - SCREW FInd size
55020M - SPRING-REAR SUSPENSION
55032M - SEAT-RUBBER,REAR SPRING LOWER - Find replacement
55034 - SEAT-RUBBER,REAR SPRING UPPER - Find replacement
55429 - BRACKET ASSY-REAR SUSPENSION ARM,RH
55430 - BRACKET ASSY-REAR SUSPENSION ARM, LH
55501A - BEAM COMPL-REAR SUSPENSION
 

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When I got the last mot done they said slight leak on engine I guess it's something really small as I'm not seeing much other than on the block.
I have this thought that it might be cause by the loose dipstick tube.
 
Since we had so much wind and rain over the past week I been researching whats needed to locate and repair the said engine leak.
I'm not sure if it's worth my efforts to continue or not as yet with this as I can see I have alot of items to replace in the future.
It would be nice to renew all the parts though.
So what I think I should do is try to get as much of the items I have gotten so far and try to get them installed.
These include the 2 belts air con and pump.
The rear suspension parts.
Maybe the sparkplugs giving me a look at the head of engine for possible leaks.
I also have but won't be installing as yet the wishbones left and right.
My thoughts for other replacements could also include the oil pan for engine and there is also the pan on gear box side that I'm not finding in searches on the net.
If I manage to get the suspension in I also then want to replace the rear axle bushes and put some power flex ones in maybe.

For now tho I really need to look into anything that will cause a problem that would make it not worth doing since I can already see its much work and parts still to buy to get anywhere near the car being properly tidy underneath.
 
Tensioner Pulley not removed on first attempt so going to get backup Flanged 14mm nuts in case it get damaged upon removal.
Flanged just need to know the thread pitch. Cant find any info on this so far.
The belts still looked ok I still want to renew them since I have them waiting to be installed.
 

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This project seems to have no ending I'm wondering if I should just change the whole front end. Tie rods inner and outer, the wishbones and everything else that is possible such as the drive shafts.
I know the car has a fair bit left to do for me to be happy.
atm I'm monitoring the engine and so far I don't see anything dripping since clearing it up.
Next time its up on the stands, I'm going to blast as much off as possible with break cleaner.
This might help me to identify if any cracks are on the block.
 
Today removed the stubby radio antenna. I'm replacing it again. Since not getting any signal at all, only one local station would work.
Found that the adapter that makes it fit was rusted, along with the inside thread that it connects with.
I've blown this out a couple times with spray. Then try to remove the rest with bit of wirewool. Since I don't have any other ideas how to remove the rust in such an area.
Also this time sealed the connector to help reduce corrosion.
Now that I have replaced I can pick up a few more channels than before.
Using a bee sting antenna seems better.
It may not be the antenna or wiring to fault tho.
The local transmitter has had trouble lately.
And I sometimes have trouble with over head wires from telephone cables where its parked.
All I know for sure is the other car picks up all channels no problems.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Today removed the stubby radio antenna. I'm replacing it again. Since not getting any signal at all, only one local station would work.
Found that the adapter that makes it fit was rusted, along with the inside thread that it connects with.
I've blown this out a couple times with spray. Then try to remove the rest with bit of wirewool. Since I don't have any other ideas how to remove the rust in such an area.
Also this time sealed the connector to help reduce corrosion.
Now that I have replaced I can pick up a few more channels than before.
Using a bee sting antenna seems better.
It may not be the antenna or wiring to fault tho.
The local transmitter has had trouble lately.
And I sometimes have trouble with over head wires from telephone cables where its parked.
All I know for sure is the other car picks up all channels no problem
You will find that the RF circuits in the average car radio are pre adjusted to match to the 'standard' length of aerial mast fitted to a car, in the case of the K12, around 800mm long, which equates to about 1/4 wavelength on the FM spectrum of 88Mhz-102Mhz..........short 'fashionable' aerials will always give poor results in comparison......... :( Also aerial polarisation has quite a lot of effect...... some stations are transmitted vertically polarised and others horizontally polarised, the 'standard' rake of the roof mounted aerial on the K12 of about 45 degrees to the roof ground plane is a deliberate compromise to allow for 'acceptable' reception of both modes of polarisation...... (guess who has held a 'ham' radio licence for over 40 years ;))
 
So the angle could affect the reception as well because I think I pushed it down and then was unable to pull it back up.
23cm the bee sting.
Stumpy was about an inch long.
I want to reinstall the original but am unable to find it atm.
Have used an airband radio when I was younger it was really cheap and did not last very long.
The head unit in the car though has Fm Mw and Lw.
It could also be settings related because in the past it has done this before when battery was taken off to charge then replaced it seemed better.
I did notice this though in a photo I had taken the angle was more at 45 degrees with the original antenna installed so this is probably the cause since its pushed almost flat maybe 25 to 30 degree.
The bee sting was about 2.50 so I don't expect much from it although it does seem to be decent picking up a Lw frequency where the stubby did not.
Its not the greatest reception but it shows its picking up well because longwave atlantic 252 is usually hard to pick up.
The down side to a bee sting is it's designed to be installed at the rear of a vehicle.
I will give it another try at moving it but I'm afraid to snap it and end up having to replace knowing its going to be hard to find one.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
So the angle could affect the reception as well because I think I pushed it down and then was unable to pull it back up.
23cm the bee sting.
Stumpy was about an inch long.
I want to reinstall the original but am unable to find it atm.
Have used an airband radio when I was younger it was really cheap and did not last very long.
The head unit in the car though has Fm Mw and Lw.
It could also be settings related because in the past it has done this before when battery was taken off to charge then replaced it seemed better.
I did notice this though in a photo I had taken the angle was more at 45 degrees with the original antenna installed so this is probably the cause since its pushed almost flat maybe 25 to 30 degree.
The bee sting was about 2.50 so I don't expect much from it although it does seem to be decent picking up a Lw frequency where the stubby did not.
Its not the greatest reception but it shows its picking up well because longwave atlantic 252 is usually hard to pick up.
The down side to a bee sting is it's designed to be installed at the rear of a vehicle.
I will give it another try at moving it but I'm afraid to snap it and end up having to replace knowing its going to be hard to find one.
Aerial length is always a compromise on M.W. and L.W. reception but again the radio's internal circuitry is optimised for best reception of these bands with the 'standard' length aerial. The wavelength of the Medium wave band is about 200 to 600 metres and Long Wave is 1,100 to 2,000 metres so the chances of achieving even a matching 1/4 wave are just a tad 'difficult' even with a fixed mains powered radio and a 'long wire' aerial in your back garden......... ;) :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: . I'm currently 'playing with' (repairing and restoring) some 1940's/50's valve radios like this one......
Philips 141 U.jpg


Inside it looked like this when I got it..... :-
20210318_221537330_iOS.jpg

Now fully restored and working...:cool:
As received, outside view.....
Philips 141U-15 sellers picture.jpg
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
That must once have been state of the art technology :ROFLMAO:. Yet still interesting today
You want 'state of the art' how about this tiny valve portable from 1948, it owes its existence to sub miniature valves, developed in WW II for clandestine and walkie talkie radios :cool:.
P20B with box.jpg

Marconi P20B 7.jpg

Video of my restored one HERE
The problem with restoring vintage valve portables is that they run on high tension and low tension batteries that haven't been made for about 45 years so I have to reconstruct batteries, using modern cells, stacks of 9v PP3 batteries to get the 90 volts HT and 'AA', 'C' or 'D' cells for the LT (either 1.5v or 7.5v)........
Battery construction.jpg

Then clad it with a print out from the internet to get it to look the part....
B114 battery 2.jpg
 
Thanks John it's working again now the angle was the cause.
I've managed to lift it up more to where it was originally I think it was not moving when the tiny antenna was installed.
Also I found a replacement on nissan website for that incase it did snap.
They sure ain't cheap for what they are.
 
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