Okay so daily is the corsa but it keep intermittently staying in park.
Trying to figure it out took a photo online the info reports a bad solder joint on one blue wire that goes to soldernoid.
Looks like a simple enough task re solder the wire.
But my thoughts are the harness might want replacement.
Any views welcome any one with automatic transmission/shifter knowledge.
Apologies for being none micra related.
The micro switch at fault have removed and will just have to put up with the parking pin moving when the brake is pressed until I'm able to get the item replaced.
As this seems to require the exhaust removed to gain better access.
Could probably do it with centre console removed.
After soldering the micro switch it worked and then got unable to remove key problem.
So only option left was to remove the micro switches as a tempory measure.
This is a safe method as far as others have stated as the parking pin locks and releases as normal the brake lights work fine so that was not a problem.
So the solution for this was to join two and isolate the other.
When using a crocodile clip to bypass the switch this worked also.
The switches are hard to refit as I was trying to replace them back only to find the issue returned.
As for the key being locked in the ignition this seems rather stupid feature. But probably serves a purpose.
My conclusion the micro switches and wires had poor connections.
So image screenshot below shows the full item that is to be replaced.
The simplest solution is to solder the wires from the new micro switch to the existing harness..
The plug is removable so should give a bit more access to the wire.
This was recommended by someone who had the same problem.
I have since received a gas solder iron that may be more helpful to me as I struggle with the plug in type.
Have also got some flux to help with the solder process.
I want to buy the full item so the micro switch will return into its area and can be locked in with the locking metal part that is really awkward to fit.
For budget fix one can use a simple micro switch. This would then have to be affixed in position and probably won't be ideal long term solution.
I will buy the item later since the service is coming up and if its possible I will have them replace this item should it be a requirement.
For now I will see how it does without the micro switch as the car is being used to commute to work.
Decided I will give some micro switches a chance they are prewired and should be able to recreate the same action when connected up.
Only thing I picked the wrong ones so have asked for them to change to the lower type.
Plan is to join the two together via the wires and try and get them wired up then test and see if it will work.
They look slightly different but serve same purpose.
Can be done with just one switch but I want to try an make it the same as was as close as I possibly can.
Next step to test these switches and see if I get the same problem gonna quick connect to save fiddling about with the soldering iron.
Once I see if it works can decide how long the need be. It's a shame the switches are different cause they ain't gonna fit the recess area.
Car got new tie rods it's service also.
Bad news tho the subframe has slight corrosion.
It pass tho so that was a bonus.
Have gotten a oscilascope thingy and will use this to see better at the cross member.
With intention of trying to remedy the issue that shouldn't be too hard to sort out.
Pretty sure it will be better than nothing but do need something to paint on afterwards to seal it up. The waxy oil might be okay for this purpose if it's still usable.
It's not the best quality but might give me some idea of what's happening down under
