Micra no start!

Hi, i have recorded a video of my ordeal. No crank micra, new battery, new fuses, swapped Relay for starter. Car starts up fine when bridging the starter motor with a screwdriver other than that it just makes clicking and buzzing noises.

 
Clean all the earths on both inner wings behind headlights There’s one each side Under 10mm bolts & the one from alternator to body there’s loads just check them all , even check battery cables for breaks not sending full power . Down under the passenger seat to sill carpet there’s a big bunch of cables to . Is the spare wheel well rusty orange from where waters been filling up I read there’s an alarm on some models there & cables corroded. I checked mine an I didn’t see one. The dreaded k12 gremlins I spent weeks stripping mine had dash bcm ecu all fuseboxes out checked every part that had wiring to find My electrical Faults . there a joke how there wired factory wires I found twisted & just wrapped with one layer of electric tape one wire joined to 5 others not colour coded Nissan Really cut corners should be called Nissan fault . Also check your black box on back of ignition as I found mine not fully screwed on.
 
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Thanks alot for the reply, do you have a diagram of the earths since I cant find much info about them.
 
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My cd player is missing from the previous owner I think a blown ECM relay might be causing this or a bad ground.
 
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I saw some ground near engine fuse box with some battery acid
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Yeh clean that up with wire wheel on a drill . if you use search at top right of forum type k12 earth it should show you posts with earth issues sure in one there pics of the areas they all are . I’ll have a quick look
 

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No problem start with earths then go to wiring from battery to starter. If it does end up being bcm there’s guy on google in Norfolk who tests them & can clone them from a used one if not repair yours.
 

frank

Club Member
first thing to check is for 12v at the small starter lead when cranking
if there is then its probably the starter solenoid
 

frank

Club Member
Hmm, okay well do i put the positive on the small lead and the negative on the battery or on metal?
yes i would pull the small lead off, and red meter wire on that connector, with black meter wire on bare metal somewhere for earth
 
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Quick update, my car has no cd player and I bought it as a non-runner. I think the previous owner installed an aftermarket cd player and it blew a load of fuses hence why the fusible link was blown and some fuses inside the fusebox interior were charred. Due to this reason I think a ECU fuse or an important fuse responsible for the car is throwing an immobiliser or a load of warnings. I don't think its the actual immobiliser since the fuel pump engages

Any idea what relay or fuses to check or what I should check? Thanks
 

frank

Club Member
on k11,s nats cuts the injector signals, and a with drop of petrol down the t/b it will run for a few secs, i assume k12,s are the same ?
 
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Ohh, im not sure then. But if I short the stater with the battery 12v lead the starter motor engages and the engine starts up.
 

frank

Club Member
an immobliser that allows you to bumpstart down a hill would suck
so i doubt yours is a nats issue
 
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Yeahh, exactly haha. Im thinking that the electrical surge caused the fusible link to pop (now been replaced) and caused battery acid to corrode the ground cables connecting to body and chassis.

I think ill spray each ground with wd40 and brush it off hopefully fixing it.
 
Don’t forget to check this on back of ignition barrel
 

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burnt wires, could even have a fault inside not allowing it to crank over There a common known problem so don’t rule it out.
 
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Hey guys i checked my car grounds today and cleaned them up. However I checked my engine ground and saw it was shot completely covered in green acid
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Could this be the cause of my no crank issues? And if so how could I clean it up properly? with a dremel?
 
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Hey guys i cleaned up the engine ground cable spotless clean yet I still got the same buzzing faulty grounding sound. I have no clue anymore but the starter ground. Could that be causing an issue? It sounds like the starter gets very little voltage just enough for the solenoid to click.
 
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Saw this guys video, exactly the same noise coming from mine, cleaned up the block ground really well and still the same issue!!
 

frank

Club Member
did you check the voltage of the solenoid wire ?
diagnosis saves a lot of unnecessary work and parts changing
 
There a guy done a yt vid of what to test on a micra, he shows how to start it from the fuse box relay. I know you said it goes you started it direct from starter by Shorting start solenoid. Did you test Main start feed with tester on Homs from starter end to where it goes on battery. Same as earth to see no breaks.
 
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I checked the main battery connecting to the starter it was getting a good 12v, I didn't check the other wires properly but think its a starter ground issue? maybe that's also causing electrical issue for the false immobiliser i hope
 
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Update: Noticed after cleaning the engine ground, my starter motor isn't getting 12v from the small ignition control circuit wire. If I send 12v to that wire via a screwdriver the car starts up perfectly. However, the immobiliser is flashing when trying to start from the key. Could it be the immobiliser is preventing the 12v getting to the starter?

I know that the 12v from key makes it to the fuse box, relays click.

It shouldn't be an immobiliser since if it really was then the car wouldn't start up.
 
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