Micra advice.

Hi all, glad I found this forum.

I have always rated Micras as a good car that runs forever. I have just been lucky enough to have been given the car in the pic. It's an 02 plate Micra Activ, just over 25200 it was on 24897 when I got her last month. (Jan2019).

Just any general advice on how to keep the Micra running as long as possible, in good condition. I know there are some corrosion issues underneath, the blower only works on full setting, the A/C seems to work fine, electric windows are fine. Overall in great condition, few minor scratches, the odometer doesn't display correctly until after it's been running a while and the display on the radio is gone.

Runs really well nice and quiet, would love advice on getting it looking better and sorting any corrosion etc. Many thanks.

Lee
 
Hi all, glad I found this forum.

I have always rated Micras as a good car that runs forever. I have just been lucky enough to have been given the car in the pic. It's an 02 plate Micra Activ, just over 25200 it was on 24897 when I got her last month. (Jan2019).

Just any general advice on how to keep the Micra running as long as possible, in good condition. I know there are some corrosion issues underneath, the blower only works on full setting, the A/C seems to work fine, electric windows are fine. Overall in great condition, few minor scratches, the odometer doesn't display correctly until after it's been running a while and the display on the radio is gone.

Runs really well nice and quiet, would love advice on getting it looking better and sorting any corrosion etc. Many thanks.

Lee
Hi Lee, agree that ... they are quite unique. What they lack in kudos they more than make up for in cheap reliable motoring. 24k miles is nothing and an 02 plate is only just running in! :)

There are folks way more expert than me but for my input i'd say:

1. Use synthetic oils and service regularly - not expensive name brands but ECP TripleX stuff when on offer (is right now in fact) .... service items are very cheap especially during ECP sales etc

2. Get yourself a grinder and some cheap wire wheels from Screwfix and when weather good, strip rust and loose off and spray at risk body areas with Dintrol and box sections and any spare hammerite (2 coats and only when very dry) ... inner edge sill is always the MOT fail point

3. Front cross member - same, tends to rust and can be replaced or welded but easy to do

4. The heater blower is a simple resistor pack replacement, can get those cheap off ebay

5. Most other stuff is simple lego replacement stuff and very cheap ... brakes, bearings, lights etc

6. Depending on what model you have, (pre facelift 95 model) can suffer throttle body issues but again cheap to repair or replace. But if yours running well then nothing to do there really

7. I found synthetic gearbox oil to have been a really good option on our 95' model but again if it's running well then maybe unnecessary.

There's really very little on K11's that should scare a newbie with basic tools and access to Micra.Org. Parts are still fairly easy to source.

Yep, corrosion really is your only real enemy here but if you can find yourself a decent tame priced welder that really need not be an issue.
Nissanboy and Plmval and Scorpio and Frank (and many others) are also solid resources here who can steer on stock faults and more importantly really good solutions.

The folks on this web site are genuinely helpful and practical people and will answer your questions without the normal sarcasm and patronising tone that some car forums tend towards. You in good company :)
 
Hi Lee, agree that ... they are quite unique. What they lack in kudos they more than make up for in cheap reliable motoring. 24k miles is nothing and an 02 plate is only just running in! :)

There are folks way more expert than me but for my input i'd say:

1. Use synthetic oils and service regularly - not expensive name brands but ECP TripleX stuff when on offer (is right now in fact) .... service items are very cheap especially during ECP sales etc

2. Get yourself a grinder and some cheap wire wheels from Screwfix and when weather good, strip rust and loose off and spray at risk body areas with Dintrol and box sections and any spare hammerite (2 coats and only when very dry) ... inner edge sill is always the MOT fail point

3. Front cross member - same, tends to rust and can be replaced or welded but easy to do

4. The heater blower is a simple resistor pack replacement, can get those cheap off ebay

5. Most other stuff is simple lego replacement stuff and very cheap ... brakes, bearings, lights etc

6. Depending on what model you have, (pre facelift 95 model) can suffer throttle body issues but again cheap to repair or replace. But if yours running well then nothing to do there really

7. I found synthetic gearbox oil to have been a really good option on our 95' model but again if it's running well then maybe unnecessary.

There's really very little on K11's that should scare a newbie with basic tools and access to Micra.Org. Parts are still fairly easy to source.

Yep, corrosion really is your only real enemy here but if you can find yourself a decent tame priced welder that really need not be an issue.
Nissanboy and Plmval and Scorpio and Frank (and many others) are also solid resources here who can steer on stock faults and more importantly really good solutions.

The folks on this web site are genuinely helpful and practical people and will answer your questions without the normal sarcasm and patronising tone that some car forums tend towards. You in good company :)

Wow!! Great in depth response, many thanks!!!

It's a K11 2002 Activ, I believe it's the second face-lift but tbh not sure. It's just passed an MOT with only an advisory on sills "getting weak" I will have to look on the MOT report to see if it states which part of the sills, and an advisory on a tyre (which was replaced.).

Had a full service at same time and had a little work on some of the less serious corrosion and an underseal where needed. The guy told me to bring it back once we get some good dry spells and he'd treat and seal the full underside.

I must admit, I am concerned about the advisory on the sills as I am unsure what exactly getting weak means or if it's near prescribed area.

As for getting tools and going under the car, I'd really not want to do that as I'd wreck it. I'm a total idiot when it comes to any DIY etc.
I don't even know how to do a basic service, sparks filter oil change and wouldn't want to try without guidance. LOL

Glad there's a couple of contacts on here welding-wise too as I want to get any corrosion issues permanently stopped before it starts to become a real issue. (when I say permanently stopped I mean chopped out old bits and replace with new metal).

Inside and out it's very clean and in very good condition as stated just a few minor scratches, which should easily be removed by a scratch removal type kit. (so I am told)

Anyway many thanks for your response and I will check out those items you mentioned for the blower.
 
Wow!! Great in depth response, many thanks!!!

It's a K11 2002 Activ, I believe it's the second face-lift but tbh not sure. It's just passed an MOT with only an advisory on sills "getting weak" I will have to look on the MOT report to see if it states which part of the sills, and an advisory on a tyre (which was replaced.).

Had a full service at same time and had a little work on some of the less serious corrosion and an underseal where needed. The guy told me to bring it back once we get some good dry spells and he'd treat and seal the full underside.

I must admit, I am concerned about the advisory on the sills as I am unsure what exactly getting weak means or if it's near prescribed area.

As for getting tools and going under the car, I'd really not want to do that as I'd wreck it. I'm a total idiot when it comes to any DIY etc.
I don't even know how to do a basic service, sparks filter oil change and wouldn't want to try without guidance. LOL

Glad there's a couple of contacts on here welding-wise too as I want to get any corrosion issues permanently stopped before it starts to become a real issue. (when I say permanently stopped I mean chopped out old bits and replace with new metal).

Inside and out it's very clean and in very good condition as stated just a few minor scratches, which should easily be removed by a scratch removal type kit. (so I am told)

Anyway many thanks for your response and I will check out those items you mentioned for the blower.
Don't fear the sills ... yes it's some work to do but you can get outer sills as a pre-fabricated part cheaply and easily. Think mine came off ebay last year and were maybe £14 a piece. The bit that freaks some folks is the return edge of the sill .... the bit that the visible outer sill attaches to. That does need a cheap reliable guy who can drive a MIG welder .... but they are out there.

Here's a sill on ebay right now .... if you put a watch on, ones will come up cheaper but this is just a 'today buy' .... cheap enough....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MICRA-K11-1992-1998-Skin-Sill-Nearside-L-H-2-Door/142987003747?fits=Model:Micra&epid=1250557301&hash=item214ab08763:g:nw0AAOSwNHlcNfsy:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I'd personally avoid underseal in favor of things like Dintrol. It's a little more expensive but does come in spray can form as well as form that you can attach to a compressor. This sort of stuff .....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-DINITROL-4941-UNDERBODY-CHASSIS-RUST-PROOFING-BLACK-WAX-500ml-Aerosol/323529022592?epid=1107601570&hash=item4b53d51c80:g:t44AAOSw7cZcWtWk:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Thing is, if you got through this MOT that will buy you time to find a 'Saturday welder' .... someone who can pop by and do the job in a planned manner. It's always the worst when you get the dreaded MOT fail and then have to react to the work rather than plan it in. At least you have a decent car and have time to hunt down a guy who can weld at decent price and hit it before the next dreaded test.

And then if you not keen at turning spanners, find a local non-franchised Nissan guy .... someone with the Nissan training but without the Nissan dealer price tag. Again they out there and once you found one....it's worth hanging on to.
 
Try quickco, they do oem nissan oil, and service parts
10/40 semi found to be the best with all k11s I've owned , no.14 tomorrow haha with 9k or 12month services
Don t bother with underseal or Shultz it kills Nissan ,
Has it got. A sunroof?,
Rear inner arches, behind the fuel filler, on top of the fuel filler, front bottom, rear seam, , boot floor, rear foot well, front outer foot well next to the A pillar, inner and outersills, rear vents, front and rear crossmember, (rear is near enough just above the axle on the floor) , coil top mounts and axle coil cups and just around there, front inner arch of the chassis legs were the plastic shield and o/s inner arch behind the strut and brake pipe ,
1.0 or 1.4??
None rust problems, cv boots, heater card headlight plugs , sunroof drains (can block) water leak into the heater (two clips leak) , back Box can break on the welds, drivers door drops , remote buttons fail (easy fix) ,left number plate bulb

Recommended , waxoil, strip the underseal off in the rear arches and repaint and waxoil, gearbox service, and been a low millage , I'd image it wants a service (note due to mostly doing cold starts the oil may smell petrol )

Now the mot , could you get pictures up? If they are going basically you want to strip it down to bare metal, and chop any rot or perforated metal, may also be worth doing the inside of the sills with old engine oil or waxoil, also the rear cards, you can remove them, simply pull the the rubber lol back and can pull the panel off to gain access inside, to see if or how much corrosion there is , also check the wheel arch seam and arch itself
 
Try quickco, they do oem nissan oil, and service parts
10/40 semi found to be the best with all k11s I've owned , no.14 tomorrow haha with 9k or 12month services
Don t bother with underseal or Shultz it kills Nissan ,
Has it got. A sunroof?,
Rear inner arches, behind the fuel filler, on top of the fuel filler, front bottom, rear seam, , boot floor, rear foot well, front outer foot well next to the A pillar, inner and outersills, rear vents, front and rear crossmember, (rear is near enough just above the axle on the floor) , coil top mounts and axle coil cups and just around there, front inner arch of the chassis legs were the plastic shield and o/s inner arch behind the strut and brake pipe ,
1.0 or 1.4??
None rust problems, cv boots, heater card headlight plugs , sunroof drains (can block) water leak into the heater (two clips leak) , back Box can break on the welds, drivers door drops , remote buttons fail (easy fix) ,left number plate bulb

Recommended , waxoil, strip the underseal off in the rear arches and repaint and waxoil, gearbox service, and been a low millage , I'd image it wants a service (note due to mostly doing cold starts the oil may smell petrol )

Now the mot , could you get pictures up? If they are going basically you want to strip it down to bare metal, and chop any rot or perforated metal, may also be worth doing the inside of the sills with old engine oil or waxoil, also the rear cards, you can remove them, simply pull the the rubber lol back and can pull the panel off to gain access inside, to see if or how much corrosion there is , also check the wheel arch seam and arch itself

HI NissanBoy, thanks for reply.

I thought Micra 02 plate K11 was 5-30s fully synthetic? as a pose to 10-40? That's what my manual says. (Not sure what garage used on service).

No it has no sunroof. Outer sills if those are the door ones you can see, look and feel sine. I think the issue is underneath but I have never been able to have a look, I don't have ramp or a clue what too look for.

As for your list of "none rust problems" I will have to google what these are as I really have no idea at all.

As for getting pics, I'd have to try and see if I can just snap as it's stood on it's wheels. As above no ramp.

Sorry I sound totally clueless, I am. But willing eager and happy to learn.
 
Haynes Manual 1993-2002.

As you are keen to learn as you state, may I suggest that you acquire & diligently read the relevant Haynes manual 1993-2002.

The understanding of the general principals therein are common to most vehicles & useful for any motorist to DIY manage & minimise their long term future motoring costs.

Reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233111190673

Good luck.
 
Haynes Manual 1993-2002.

As you are keen to learn as you state, may I suggest that you acquire & diligently read the relevant Haynes manual 1993-2002.

The understanding of the general principals therein are common to most vehicles & useful for any motorist to DIY manage & minimise their long term future motoring costs.

Reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233111190673

Good luck.

Brilliant. Thanks for that. Will check that out. (for me this usually means I will buy it.) :p
 
HI NissanBoy, thanks for reply.

I thought Micra 02 plate K11 was 5-30s fully synthetic? as a pose to 10-40? That's what my manual says. (Not sure what garage used on service).

No it has no sunroof. Outer sills if those are the door ones you can see, look and feel sine. I think the issue is underneath but I have never been able to have a look, I don't have ramp or a clue what too look for.

As for your list of "none rust problems" I will have to google what these are as I really have no idea at all.

As for getting pics, I'd have to try and see if I can just snap as it's stood on it's wheels. As above no ramp.

Sorry I sound totally clueless, I am. But willing eager and happy to learn.
5/30 is.for low speed short commutes ,granny driving, 10/40 is best all round, thrashing ect
The Haynes manual is kinda crap Tbh , specially for facelifts and coil pack models (yours)
Fair enough ,not everyone is mechanic lol
Yeah the.grey is the outer sill,
 
5/30 is.for low speed short commutes ,granny driving, 10/40 is best all round, thrashing ect
The Haynes manual is kinda crap Tbh , specially for facelifts and coil pack models (yours)
Fair enough ,not everyone is mechanic lol
Yeah the.grey is the outer sill,
Oh, OK I had no idea, the different oils had different uses. I just thought the oil for the car had to be the "correct one".
Well never mind I bought the Haynes manual now lol.

Cheers for clarification on the sills.
 
Oh, OK I had no idea, the different oils had different uses. I just thought the oil for the car had to be the "correct one".
Well never mind I bought the Haynes manual now lol.

Cheers for clarification on the sills.
Most folks are interested in managing & minimising their overall whole life motoring costs in order to get on with more productive inspiring goals & life experiences other than messing about wasting unnecessary time fixing old cars that are beyond economic repair.

Haynes Manuals are for those with inquiring minds & a thirst for transferable knowledge based life management skills. Enjoy fact based learning to discriminate between anecdotes & long established fundamental fact based principles at minimal overall costs of the individual learners time.

Quote: “The worldwide leader in automotive repair, maintenance and customizing manuals with sales of well over 7 million manuals annually and over 150 million total sold globally. Haynes Manuals are a must read for all car owners. Haynes Manuals are the ultimate DIY guide books for used, collector, and newer vehicles. As one of the most widely read automotive books in the world”

Reference: https://www.linkedin.com/company/haynes-manuals-inc
 
Most folks are interested in managing & minimising their overall whole life motoring costs in order to get on with more productive inspiring goals & life experiences other than messing about wasting unnecessary time fixing old cars that are beyond economic repair.

Haynes Manuals are for those with inquiring minds & a thirst for transferable knowledge based life management skills. Enjoy fact based learning to discriminate between anecdotes & long established fundamental fact based principles at minimal overall costs of the individual learners time.

Quote: “The worldwide leader in automotive repair, maintenance and customizing manuals with sales of well over 7 million manuals annually and over 150 million total sold globally. Haynes Manuals are a must read for all car owners. Haynes Manuals are the ultimate DIY guide books for used, collector, and newer vehicles. As one of the most widely read automotive books in the world”

Reference: https://www.linkedin.com/company/haynes-manuals-inc
I must admit, when I become interested in something I do a lot of reading, watch youtube videos, general research etc. I guess this will be no different. Would love in a year be confident changing my own filters, sparks oil, etc.
 
I must admit, when I become interested in something I do a lot of reading, watch youtube videos, general research etc. I guess this will be no different. Would love in a year be confident changing my own filters, sparks oil, etc.
Quote; “Would love in a year be confident changing my own filters, sparks oil, etc”

Read the Haynes book, acquire a basic mechanical tool kit & you will up to the above & simple servicing in two weeks. (y)
 
Quote; “Would love in a year be confident changing my own filters, sparks oil, etc”

Read the Haynes book, acquire a basic mechanical tool kit & you will up to the above & simple servicing in two weeks. (y)

Brilliant! Sounding good. Does the Haynes also suggest which Spark remover tool you need etc? As I don't have anything more than a couple of screwdrivers!
 
Also keep away from Bosch spark plugs , one had.problems with them
Ngk are better I find and quickco or europarts special the are cheap
 
Also keep away from Bosch spark plugs , one had.problems with them
Ngk are better I find and quickco or europarts special the are cheap

Thanks again for your replies NB.

I always thought bosch were good, but thanks for the heads up. Will keep away from them!

That kit looks like it's got everything and a good price. will bag one of those next week.
 
Brilliant! Sounding good. Does the Haynes also suggest which Spark remover tool you need etc? As I don't have anything more than a couple of screwdrivers!
Quote: “I have just been lucky enough to have been given the car in the pic”.

Before aspiring to do unnecessary work, enquire from the previous owner for all of the previous MOT & servicing history invoices receipts in order work up a detail history list of dates & mileages specifying what maintenance & repair work has been carried out & when.

Leave the plugs alone if it is starting & running ok as they are difficult to access & easy to break in situ without experience & the correct sizes long reach socket set tools.

What is the MOT, tax & insurence status of this vehicle?
 
Quote: “I have just been lucky enough to have been given the car in the pic”.

Before aspiring to do unnecessary work, enquire from the previous owner for all of the previous MOT & servicing history invoices receipts in order work up a detail history list of dates & mileages specifying what maintenance & repair work has been carried out & when.

Leave the plugs alone if it is starting & running ok as they are difficult to access & easy to break in situ without experience & the correct sizes long reach socket set tools.

What is the MOT, tax & insurence status of this vehicle?

Just had an MOT on 18th of this month, passed with advisories on inner and outer sills and a tyre (tyre replaced).
Taxed on a monthly D/D basis and insured fully comp on learners insurance.

As for the history, the vehicle was given to me, as the previous owner (who's family had it from new) now reside in Germany and it was just sat around for most of the time. He's told me during moving around the world (which he does regular) all the papers have become lost. He mangaed after looking for a few days to find the V5, which was put in my name.

Prior to the MOT I asked for a full service to be done, so the plugs filters oil have just been done. along with new plates (back was last years advisory) a bit of "slight" corrosion work and underseal where needed ( advisories from previous MOT) . (told by the mechanic, to take back for full underseal in better weather so not to lock in moisture). since coming on here been told that Underseal is not as good a thing as
Waxoil, (I will have to go back through replies to check this name).
 
Just had an MOT on 18th of this month, passed with advisories on inner and outer sills and a tyre (tyre replaced).
Taxed on a monthly D/D basis and insured fully comp on learners insurance.

As for the history, the vehicle was given to me, as the previous owner (who's family had it from new) now reside in Germany and it was just sat around for most of the time. He's told me during moving around the world (which he does regular) all the papers have become lost. He mangaed after looking for a few days to find the V5, which was put in my name.

Prior to the MOT I asked for a full service to be done, so the plugs filters oil have just been done. along with new plates (back was last years advisory) a bit of "slight" corrosion work and underseal where needed ( advisories from previous MOT) . (told by the mechanic, to take back for full underseal in better weather so not to lock in moisture). since coming on here been told that Underseal is not as good a thing as
Waxoil, (I will have to go back through replies to check this name).
Quote; “Taxed on a monthly D/D basis and insured fully comp on learners insurance”

Therefore may I suggest the priority is driving lessons & passing the driving test asap., followed by getting out & about in the car with the GF for summer.

Just check the oil & water levels & drive the thing when legally entitled too.:)
 
Quote; “Taxed on a monthly D/D basis and insured fully comp on learners insurance”

Therefore may I suggest the priority is driving lessons & passing the driving test asap., followed by getting out & about in the car with the GF for summer.

Just check the oil & water levels & drive the thing when legally entitled too.:)
As said I drive it regular, have it on learners insurance and friend of family comes out often 3 times a week. Got an instructor too I am test ready and booked in for 27th March (was earliest available).

GF= girlfriend where I come from and not had one of those for a good few years. (Happily single).

Oil water tyre pressure checked weekly and topped if needed. I was shown how to do that bit. :ROFLMAO:(y)
 
Therefore no maintenance servicing required for a year or till next MOT due, thus plenty of time to focus on more important life projects other than wasting time on an inanimate old car doing unnecessary work that’s already been done professionally as you state?

Put petrol in the back, yourselves in the front seats & just drive the thing out & about when the sun is out having fun, exactly what it was built for.

Good luck with the driving test. (y)
 
Told you you'd get lots of good input. :) These guys do know their stuff. Rescued me any number of times.... and still doing so.

The Haynes hath much mickey taking and in this world of forums and videos it can be over looked but is still a useful reference ... especially when referencing electrical diagrams.

A combination of the 'good book, motivated Micra.org folk and definitely youtube videos will provide you with a wealth of experience. And yes a simple budget tool kit and a jack and you really will be away within a few days .... life is simple and most jobs simple to do .... there is of course always the exception but as plmval mentioned earlier, it's good structured learning, even if you do decide to give it to a tame mechanic ! :)

If there was a car to learn in, learn on and enjoy this really is the one. It gets no simpler or cheaper. A pair of vented discs for my old Volvo S80 company car was £660!!! A set of discs, brake pads, fitting kit shipped off ebay for the K11? .... £24! And a damn site easier to fit as well.
 
Therefore no maintenance servicing required for a year or till next MOT due, thus plenty of time to focus on more important life projects other than wasting time on an inanimate old car doing unnecessary work that’s already been done professionally as you state?

Put petrol in the back, yourselves in the front seats & just drive the thing out & about when the sun is out having fun, exactly what it was built for.

Good luck with the driving test. (y)
a vehicle should be maintained more then just to pass a mot, same as.service
No spending out till the mot can be the expensive way as problems.Can become worse or dangerous
 
Thanks all for the input, I am simply trying to keep the car in good nick, that's why I was asking about the maintenance, sills and other things. This car has to run for a minimum of 5 years and as such, I know I need to keep on top of these things or let it run into the ground. Which isn't an option.

Thanks again.
 
Therefore no maintenance servicing required for a year or till next MOT due, thus plenty of time to focus on more important life projects other than wasting time on an inanimate old car doing unnecessary work that’s already been done professionally as you state?

Put petrol in the back, yourselves in the front seats & just drive the thing out & about when the sun is out having fun, exactly what it was built for.

Good luck with the driving test. (y)

thanks, just need to hold my nerves together should hopefully be ok.
 
Told you you'd get lots of good input. :) These guys do know their stuff. Rescued me any number of times.... and still doing so.

The Haynes hath much mickey taking and in this world of forums and videos it can be over looked but is still a useful reference ... especially when referencing electrical diagrams.

A combination of the 'good book, motivated Micra.org folk and definitely youtube videos will provide you with a wealth of experience. And yes a simple budget tool kit and a jack and you really will be away within a few days .... life is simple and most jobs simple to do .... there is of course always the exception but as plmval mentioned earlier, it's good structured learning, even if you do decide to give it to a tame mechanic ! :)

If there was a car to learn in, learn on and enjoy this really is the one. It gets no simpler or cheaper. A pair of vented discs for my old Volvo S80 company car was £660!!! A set of discs, brake pads, fitting kit shipped off ebay for the K11? .... £24! And a damn site easier to fit as well.

Yep, this was one reason I had a Micra in mind as you say cheap to run and maintain. Now I have been on here I also see they can be looked after relatively easy. (Compared to other makes/models. I do use Youtube for a lot of info so it will definitley be another source of help along with Haynes and this site
 
Haynes Manual 1993-2002.

As you are keen to learn as you state, may I suggest that you acquire & diligently read the relevant Haynes manual 1993-2002.

The understanding of the general principals therein are common to most vehicles & useful for any motorist to DIY manage & minimise their long term future motoring costs.

Reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233111190673

Good luck.

Arrived this morning, will be spending some time reading this along with Youtube videos before attempting anything. Haynes has the "difficulty rating" of spark plugs at 3 spanners. as I am complete beginner, I think I should get some personal demos too before I attempt it. Looking forward to learning some new skills. (y)
 
Just a say about the oil. I'm now using 10w 40 Semi (Castrol Ultraclean) from Opie oils and engine certainly likes it better than Mineral. Seems to be staying cleaner for longer (according to dipstick)!
 
Just a say about the oil. I'm now using 10w 40 Semi (Castrol Ultraclean) from Opie oils and engine certainly likes it better than Mineral. Seems to be staying cleaner for longer (according to dipstick)!

Next Oil change I will give this a go. I have been told on here before 10w 40 is better and by a family member who had a micra that semi was better than fully.

Thanks Nesty(y)
 
Best thing to do is give it a good service and a good underseal, as long as they are well serviced then they don't give much problem.
The main issue is always rust on the bottom of the front cross member and the rear of the sills but that can be prevented if rub it down and underseal it before it develops.

As for your heater blower problem it's a super simple fix. You can get the resistor on ebay, i did a little video on how to repair it here:

Also check out the buyers guide i did, i know you've already bought one but will explain some of the issues in a bit more detail:
 
Best thing to do is give it a good service and a good underseal, as long as they are well serviced then they don't give much problem.
The main issue is always rust on the bottom of the front cross member and the rear of the sills but that can be prevented if rub it down and underseal it before it develops.

As for your heater blower problem it's a super simple fix. You can get the resistor on ebay, i did a little video on how to repair it here:

Also check out the buyers guide i did, i know you've already bought one but will explain some of the issues in a bit more detail:

Ash, great reply thanks for these videos. I will be watching them several times. (Especially the resistor one)!!

The sills on the advisory "Getting weak" I do not know precisely what this means (apart from the obvious), but Hope it's easy to either weld or replace??

The car was given to me very generously by a friend, and I know how great micras are when looked after. It's just had a full service, so I think if I recall, it advises 5-7k or 6 months, I read that or similar somewhere. So I will look again to ensure.

The underseal was done, "Only where needed" as stated by the mechanic and said the full underseal and "corrosion work" would be done when better weather for a good week or so, or we will "just be sealing in moisture". So these are still on the to-do list and will be done within the next few months.


Thanks again! (y)(y)
 
Best thing to do is give it a good service and a good underseal, as long as they are well serviced then they don't give much problem.
The main issue is always rust on the bottom of the front cross member and the rear of the sills but that can be prevented if rub it down and underseal it before it develops.

As for your heater blower problem it's a super simple fix. You can get the resistor on ebay, i did a little video on how to repair it here:

Also check out the buyers guide i did, i know you've already bought one but will explain some of the issues in a bit more detail:

Finally had some decent weather!! Had the part for weeks, just fitted it and the blower is again working on all settings.

Thank you for that video link it really helped. AND I am pleased I fixed a part on my car, for me that's a big achievement. (My first ever car repair)

Thanks again.
 
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