March Turbo Reving at 2000rpm when warm

Right heres the problem

I just bought a 1.0 March Turbo. When the car warm up, the revs seem to go up with the temperature. It always seems to rev upto 2000rpm. Any suggestions what could be causing this?

Some Background information:
The car was originally a Auto, it has been converted to Manual. Theres quite a few wires under the bonnet that don't seem to connect anywhere and i can't see any likely places where they should go.

I don't suppose anyones got a wiring diagram for this car?
 
Vacuum leak would cause this. As regard wiring there's no diagram for a march super turbo never mind the rarer march turbo
 
Update

I've checked all the vacuum's there were a few split that i've chopped and sorted. Thanks Baz. Also turned the tick over down. Can all you guys with the turbo's post where your cars idle when you start them up and when they're warmed up?
 
Abouts 950- 1000rpm to keep the oil pressure up on it, it should idle between 1400-1700rpm on a complete cold start ,if not the cold start valve will need to be replaced
 
I've checked all the vacuum's there were a few split that i've chopped and sorted.

Did you now... :suspect:

Just to add something, shaf's turbo is missing it's air-con radiator, it's pipes, and the refridgerator gas canister. Does anybody out there with air-con fitted, have a photo showing which plugs connect to it's components. That would be a big help in solving some of the wiring mysteries. (Y)
 
I've already come up with another idea to sort out the wiring mystery, although saying that, a picture would be nice for reference.
 
when my a/c was removed there wasnt an awful lot of un used wireing, he might have removed that too though mabe, is it a constant 1500 rpm from startup and even when warm?
 
No it was just when warm. He's just got a new cold-start valve for it (yet to fit), so we'll see how that turns out. We suspect that the old one is faulty and the previous owner just turned up the idle speed. With the unused wiring; there are two plugs on the altinator and three on the passenger side around the fuel filter area.
 
No it was just when warm. He's just got a new cold-start valve for it (yet to fit), so we'll see how that turns out. We suspect that the old one is faulty and the previous owner just turned up the idle speed. With the unused wiring; there are two plugs on the altinator and three on the passenger side around the fuel filter area.
Faulty cold start valve can also cause high warm idle, sound wierd but I've stripped two of them to find out how they work
 
can i ask which is the cold start valve?

If you can imagine looking down at the inlet mani on the ST only, its the silver cone shaped thing with a block connector on top to the Left of the ECCS.

On the turbo its at the back right behind the throttle body:grinning:
 
The guy posing that ad is talking BS about the price, it cost £80 brand new from the nissan dealers and arrived next day. People have the idea that the dealers are the most expensive, but for certan parts they're cheaper. If you don't ask em you won't find out, "he who dares" as del would say (Y)
Hey he's selling an auto box for £215!!!! They're only worth £60, tops.
 
Replaced the cold start valve, Car was running sweet idling at 1800 rpm on cold and coming down between 950 - 1000 rpm :glare:
This afternoon after i came back from work, the Car wouldn't start it's got power going into the coil and the ignition relay is clicking ontop of the fuse box, but it just won't turn over nothing happens, not even a cought :( I can bump start it though, any suggestions what it could be?
 
Replaced the cold start valve, Car was running sweet idling at 1800 rpm on cold and coming down between 950 - 1000 rpm :glare:
This afternoon after i came back from work, the Car wouldn't start it's got power going into the coil and the ignition relay is clicking ontop of the fuse box, but it just won't turn over nothing happens, not even a cought :( I can bump start it though, any suggestions what it could be?

starter motor or associated wiring
 
dirty connections on the started solenoid? also look at the block connector where the reverse switch is on the gearbox as there is an inhibitor switch there on the auto box, when i converted i joined the two wires together, they could have mabe come loose? also look at the earths to the gearbox etc..

Steve :)
 
Thanks for the Suggestions lads, problem sorted temporarily, I just took "Porkpies" best friend Mr Hammer out of the tool box, gave the starter solenoid a few wacks and magic. It Started up straight away. Need to get starter motor re-conditioned in the next coming days
 
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