Lightweight 12v Racing Battery - done dirt cheap

reflexuk

reflexuk

If you want a proper lightweight racing battery these days you are likely to have to consider Lithium polymer technology but you will also be shelling out well over £200 and that doesn't bear consideration, does it?

Until recently the best you could do was a Varley red top or an Oddysey extreme utilising VRLA AGM Absorbed Glass Matt spillproof technology
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

At the moment a stock lead acid replacement for a Micra would be £58
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/N...ttery/158-car-batteries/?444771581&0&cc5_1006
Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) 330
12kg (measured)


A lightweight alternative comparable to the one I now have would be Extreme 22
http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/productprofile.asp?ProductGroupID=8553
CCA 265
6Kg

and a Red Top 25
http://www.varleyredtop.com/pdf/11_vrt25.pdf
CCA 230
7 Kg

Both of these cost three figure sums


Here is the one I bought
http://www.rapidonline.com/electrical-power/12v-18ah-sla-battery-hzb12-18-18-1172
CCA 270
5.5Kg

Purchased here
Ebay item no 121015005969
£35 delivered = WINNER!

Saving = 6.5kg and £20 (ish)

 
Keep us updated on this one - there are a table full of batterys like this at work that I have been eyeing up...

How big are the terminals?
 
Craig said:
Keep us updated on this one - there are a table full of batterys like this at work that I have been eyeing up...

How big are the terminals?
Click to expand...

Take a look on the table! Check the tech specs carefully, they vary. Also ensure its AGM and not Gel, the CCA can be significantly different. Though I'm not saying gel wouldn't work, more is better.
This one has M5 threaded inserts with bolts into them. I screwed 30mm grub screws into mine and secure the terminals with wing nuts. I used a Dremel to cut off the rings from the stock battery wires, leaving me with an eyelet is where the bolt once fitted.
I find balance is important so better to put another one in the other pocket so you don't walk out the door looking bent. I could use another one.;)
 
Haha, "that's not a battery in my pocket, I'm just pleased to see you boss"...

Yeah, I was looking at the gel one but the specs are contradictory, thetable says 270CCA with the actual unit itself which says it only has 60 or so CCA so might have to go for the liquid one you got there as I don't fancy a £50 paperweight!
 
£50 is expensive, there is plenty of choice cheaper than that. Just fyi AGM is not liquid, it too is spillproof as the electrolyte is Absorbed into a fibreGlass Matt which is why it gets it's name.
 
GlenJ said:
No was just wondering thats all bud, I will prob try this myself any weight saving is a bonus :)
Click to expand...

See, I presumed you meant engine power and on reflection I imagine you meant electrical power - to run ancillaries etc. I run an additional pair of spotlamps, for a lot of the time when competing. I find the alternator alone is enough to keep it all alive while the engine keeps running but, one time when I had a knackered lead acid bike battery to try, I stalled the engine with a big in gear braking lockup and had to bump start the engine afterwards. It must have been fully discharging the tiny battery while the main beam + spots were in use. I'm going to have to find out the hard way if that happens with this one installed. Note: That's why I now fit expensive nightbreaker 55w bulbs instead of cheap 100w halogen jobbies off ebay
 
Yeah this is something that will not be bothering me lights, stereo and spotlights just the basics i need, I need all the power I can get in this racing lark :)
 
Delivered today :) got some marine connectors (think thats what they called) see how to fit tomorrow, will get on with it next week tho don't wanna mess anything up before racing sunday :)...Flex just wondering if you had any pics on how you fitted terminals, cheers
 
Just cut the loops off the stock battery terminals leaving the clamping bolt holes on. Bolt those to the battery. I fitted 30mm M5 studs and used wingnuts so I don't strip the threads in the terminals.

Cut the back out of the battery tray an re route the earth strap slightly. Pic should make it clear. Now held down with ratchet strap.
 
Thanks for the pics, dont know if this item will be any use to you as the main objective was to save weight, just we have to use them and they look better also, thanks again
171016189369​
 
I relocated my racing gel battery under the passenger seat like this to save & redistribute weight and provide more bay space

dsc03562e.jpg

DIY terminals
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-16#post-439222

dsc03603ib.jpg

extending the loom and fitting the battery
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-16#post-439556

dsc03598.jpg

oh also remember to clean the ground cable-to-chassis contact to bare metal
 
I added a small ratchet strap in addition to the tie wraps in the picture the same way around, ie front to rear to further enhance its security, it wouldn't budge then.
 
reflexuk said:
I added a small ratchet strap in addition to the tie wraps in the picture the same way around, ie front to rear to further enhance its security, it wouldn't budge then.
Click to expand...

Thanks reflex hopefully investing in one in the near future :) just wanted to check the 20ah was sufficient
 
Paul I've got the smallest varley red top on mine, weighs nothing and is fine for warm starts, think it will need jumping in winter though! Cca too small!
 
Ok thought i would share this, This battery has surprised me again, left in garage all winter and still had full charge when put back on last week good stuff
 

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