lightened flywheel

superls

superls

K10 Tuner
ive just spent a couple of hours on me lathe lightening me flywheel, it started out at 6+kg (as my kitchen scales bottom out at that lol) and ive got it down to 3.7kg, with no drilling at all yet, im hoping for nearer 3.

i was just wondering has anyone else done anything similar? and what if any effect will it have?

cheers superls
 
superls

you put a bearing in the middle hole then spin the f/w between axle stands or whatever and chalk the bottom where it stops, if its out of balance the chalkmarks will be in a cluster, then you drill a bit out and keep doing that until the chalkmarks are at random
 
robbluek10

it wont give you any more power, it just makes the engine more responsive and its like taking weight off your car
very noticeable in first gear but little effect in top gear
 
Yeah it revs through the range alot quicker. You can buy JUN lightened flywheels for the K11. I don't think there's anything available for the 10 though
 
it also increases engine breaking.

Not sure about the K10, but the CG10's flywheel is made of 2 materials and one isn't suitable for machining. I'd recommend a scatter shield too.
 
alienfish360

i had a 1.0 f/w machined as well, it was cast iron, the same as the 1.3
the 1.3 has a steel reinforcer in the center tho
 
well i mounted mine using the outward going jaws in the chuck where the red marks are
untitled-2.jpg

then i uasd the tailstock loaded with a live centre pushing a block of ally against the centre pressing it into the chuck so it couldnt come out.

have u weightd it?

i like the idea of taking that extra off the front, i might do that and i could take off another mm or so off the back, then i need to balance mine

how big is ur lathe? i have trouble with the size of the fly in the chuck, i have to keep re adjusting the tool post as i get futher to the outside. lol
 
superls

ahh i never thought of that :blush:
i think is about 3kg, i,ll weigh it properly when its finished
and i think its best to leave a 1mm lip behind the ringear, incase the starter knocks it off eh !
when its done, i,ll show you mine if you show me yours ;)
 
ive already removedthe lip behind the starter ring, oops, ill get some pics 2morow night maybe, mine is currently about 3.6kg, not too bad to say it started out at 6+kg, how heavy was urs before you started?
 
remember, when you're balancing them at home, what speed are you spinning them up to?

They need to be balanced at 8000rpm or whatever you plan on taking the revs up to. Spinning them at 500rpm won't help really.
 
superls

mine was about 5kg before, i,m hoping to halve it
but its not how much but where you take the weight off tho eh !
i doubt the ringear will shift, they are shrunk on (could always drill and plugweld it)

alienfish360

you only spin it slow, then chalk the bottom (heavy bit)
if its out, the chalkmarks will be in a cluster
 
but balancing something at 6rpm is different than it being balanced at 6000rpm.

Same reason they balance wheels at 80mph or so not at 10mph, that's why when you go over the speed they're balanced at they vibrate.
 
alienfish360

the balancing machines i used when i was tyrefitting spun at about 10-20 mph ?
i,m not spinning the flywheel, just rotating it and letting the heavy bit stop at the bottom
 
balncing the fly is fine at low speed as when i worked in a tyre garage and a motorbike shop we only hand balanced the wheels and thay are fine i have hand balanced my own wheels on my bike and done 160+ (private road lmao) and no vibrating
 
ad4m1 said:
is there no one that sells them for the k10
Click to expand...

i can do it for £60 inc p&p but i will need your flywheel or at least a spare one.
the ones ive machined before i bolt them to the crank and hold the hole lot in the lathe,this way you keep it balanced...
 
Alienfish360 said:
it also increases engine breaking.

Not sure about the K10, but the CG10's flywheel is made of 2 materials and one isn't suitable for machining. I'd recommend a scatter shield too.
Click to expand...

only the pre-facelifts had two pieces bolted together, the facelifts (98 on)cg10 and cg13 was a single piece flywheel ;)

scott, if i get a ga16 flywheel, do you think you could do the same for me? £££???
 
Are you not going to munch through clutches with all those holes though Frank?
Craig

P.S. Looks nice and light though!
 
no craig

there are no holes in the friction face
its a smidge under 4kg btw (friendly local post office scales :wasntme: )
 
Not bad - not as light as an alloy one, but a fraction of the price, nice job (assuming it lasts etc :) )
Craig
 
well im all in, had me tea, but tonight im armed with a couple of pics,
DCP_0105.jpg

DCP_0106.jpg

DCP_0107.jpg

DCP_0108.jpg


and weighing in at
DCP_0104.jpg


just need to get a bearing in the morning to balance it. odd size the centre bore 27.35mm
 
you must have some awsome drill bits between you both, all mine are crap. it took me ages to drill out the cat studs at only 10mm diameter
 
superls

you,ll find a hell of a difference in pull away, especially in first gear
its helped my 0 to 60 a lot more than the piper cams did
a very worthwhile mod :D
 

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