Keyless entry boot button, doesn't unlock anything? :unsure:

Whilst I'm loving keyless entry, it looks like pressing the button on the boot handle should unlock the boot (at least), but it doesn't. Does anyone know if it's supposed to?
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They are a replaceable item they don't last very long I have seen guides were people replace these.
Also one guide they replaced the switch inside.
Mine is the other type that's under the handle it has worked fine for the time I've owned the vehicle.
The last few time I have opened the boot though it seemed to be delayed may be this is before they actually give up and you must replace..
Good luck with this

I
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drkeenor
They are a replaceable item they don't last very long I have seen guides were people replace these.
Also one guide they replaced the switch inside.
Mine is the other type that's under the handle it has worked fine for the time I've owned the vehicle.
The last few time I have opened the boot though it seemed to be delayed may be this is before they actually give up and you must replace..
Good luck with this

I
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I had been wondering if it was anything to do with the wiring between the hatchback and the body might be causing a problem. I read John_D s reply on the Rear wiper stopping in middle? thread and wondered if that could be anything to do with it. The high level brake light's got a nasty habit of popping from time-to-time so was wondering of the wiring's completely screwed, but I'll take a closer look at the switch/ button. Cheers fella.
 
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drkeenor
So, (very unlike me) I had a look at the manual and it reads like the boot's keyless; great. I had a look at price of the button and fell off me perch! £90 ?; yeh, really don't think so. Could pick up a tail gate from a breaking K12 (for a boat load less!), but has anyone taken the part to bits and 'fixed' it? The button itself works, but only if the car's unlocked already. Keyless works on the other doors, so the fob is ok and the 'system' works
 
If you have a decent soldering iron and know how to use one.
The button switch replacement method will be really a cheap fix.
Let me look see if I can find what the title was.

So look up on you tube..
Nissan micra boot lock fault

It maybe the wiring loom its self yes they can fray or break in places..

Check the loom first then if its not that the button micro switch would also be an option.
Definitely not worth 90 quid for a replacement.
Probably cost less even if you have to a soldering iron as well as the switch and solder.
 
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drkeenor
The other way is to swap the unit and place the preface one instead.
I think max attack has a guide to this way and it might be a better guide..

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So, I checked out both switches; the unlock button and the boot release button with a multi-meter and both work; good start, but does mean the problem's elsewhere. I popped off the rubber boot covering between the body and tailgate and "ta-da", someone's been here before (and not left it looking to pretty)! Not spent too much time tearing it apart yet. No problem removing wiring from the tailgate, but there's not a lot of slack in the body. Anyone know where there's decent access to these wires in the body?
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That reminds me of my rear passenger side cluster.
Electricians tape just screams wires have been joined and not soldered back properly.
If you can grab some heatshrink I'm sure in time it will look tidy again.
Its not essential but does make for a neater job.


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drkeenor
Work in progress... With 3 pairs of broken wires (all the same colour) figuring what's what wasn't straightforward; a bit of a ?'in :poop:! But, everything works again (properly); wiper doesn't stop in the middle any more (and now we've even got intermittent! ?) and the unlock button works (y). All cables (bar the heater element wire) had previously been repaired (poorly), so time well spent. Need more heat shrink, finished hopefully tomorrow (without the need for 5 rolls of insulation tape).
20200513_204940[1].jpg
 
Work in progress... With 3 pairs of broken wires (all the same colour) figuring what's what wasn't straightforward; a bit of a ?'in :poop:! But, everything works again (properly); wiper doesn't stop in the middle any more (and now we've even got intermittent! ?) and the unlock button works (y). All cables (bar the heater element wire) had previously been repaired (poorly), so time well spent. Need more heat shrink, finished hopefully tomorrow (without the need for 5 rolls of insulation tape).
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Nice work on the loom I admire your patience and efforts. Great idea to label the wires also.

probably good idea also to keep those labels in place or take a photo for future reference before you return the loom to the pillar.
 

Mika The Finn

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Slowly starting to look that I have to do same thing.
First trunk light stopped working, now trunk lock/opening switch is working randomly! :rolleyes:
 
Yea same story here. I noticed that one of the trim. For the otherside to this is not clipped in properly. Although every thing is working okay to my knowledge I'm wondering what surprises are hidden away behind this plastic cover.
Recently purchased some removal tools as I know trim on mine is very prone to breaking at the clips.
Some time soon I will be giving this area a look at the very least.

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drkeenor
Sorted, and much more colourful :) with no electrical tape... And everything else still works ?, even after I put it back together again! I think the main problem with the last repair was having joins (twisted wires & crimps) on the section of wire inside the rubber boot/ grommet bit that goes between the body and tailgate (and nearby to it) where it need to flex, so I extended the loom such that joins are inside the body of the car (below) and in the pillar of the tailgate where there's little/ no movement. Should last long enough ?

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