K12 SE 1.2 Petrol 03 plate fires once then nothing

Lucifers K12

Lucifers K12

Hi having problems for a while now after car left standing for about month doesn`t want to start.
Replaced battery, starter motor, cam and crank shaft sensors. really strange as reliable before stood still . Plenty of fuel in tank, new spark plugs. Fuel is pumping to front of car. Strange that it wants to start firing once then dies, if try to restart it straight away then doesn`t fire. Bought a cheap fault code reader but says alot of the sensors are NA. When try to reset the fault codes it says it can`t do it . Bit starnge aswell as thought that was idea of reader to be able to reset the faults. Any ideas ?
Tis a shame as was reliable before , has all bells and whistles, sunroof,rain sensor, airbags, steering wheel radio controls, display for fuel eco, range etc If can`t fix it will go on e-bay spares or repairs :-(
 
Codes are as follows
P1111 manufacturers Control
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor A circuit ( just fitted new )
P1122 Manufacturer control
P1121 man ufacturer control
P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high
p0444 evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit open
P0107 Manifold absolute pressure barometric pressure circuit low
p0223 Throttle pedal position sensor swicth B circuit high
P0123 throttle pedal position sensor switch a high

tRied resetting the throttle pedal sensor as per haynes manual turning ignition on 5 secs, off 20 secs, on 5 secs and then off for 20 but still comes up with fault and also fitted new crankshaft sensor
 
Your micra throw a lot of codes since being left standing.
I want to point something out to you..
The codes you see are not all the problems some maybe are.
You can use the codes to pinpoint the problem and it may turnout being something very simples
From what I can see from the codes that shown up for you.
You should check oil replace oil and filter then check air filter replace air filter..

These may not be related at all to your problem though as there are many connections that could at fault and may need to be checked you should check your ground points are clean.

It is a shame to give up now I have listed the codes below apart from one that the page did not find for Nissan
Using this page as a guide. https://www.engine-codes.com

Best of luck to you




P1111 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1
  • Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection



P0335 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty crankshaft position sensor
  • Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
  • Signal plate may be damage
  • Starter motor may be faulty
  • Starting system circuit
  • Dead or weak battery
P1122 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection

P1121 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection


P0113 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
  • Dirty air filter
  • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection


P0444 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control harness is open or shorted
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control circuit poor electrical connection


P0107 Manifold absolute pressure barometric pressure circuit low
Not found?..​

P0223 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty Throttle position sensor
  • Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle position sensor poor electrical connection
  • Faulty accelerator pedal position sensor

P0123 Nissan Possible Causes

​

  • Faulty throttle position sensor
  • Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
 
Sparky2018 said:
Your micra throw a lot of codes since being left standing.
I want to point something out to you..
The codes you see are not all the problems some maybe are.
You can use the codes to pinpoint the problem and it may turnout being something very simples
From what I can see from the codes that shown up for you.
You should check oil replace oil and filter then check air filter replace air filter..

These may not be related at all to your problem though as there are many connections that could at fault and may need to be checked you should check your ground points are clean.

It is a shame to give up now I have listed the codes below apart from one that the page did not find for Nissan
Using this page as a guide. https://www.engine-codes.com

Best of luck to you




P1111 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1
  • Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection



P0335 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty crankshaft position sensor
  • Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
  • Signal plate may be damage
  • Starter motor may be faulty
  • Starting system circuit
  • Dead or weak battery
P1122 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection

P1121 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted
  • Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection


P0113 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
  • Dirty air filter
  • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection


P0444 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control harness is open or shorted
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control circuit poor electrical connection


P0107 Manifold absolute pressure barometric pressure circuit low
Not found?..

P0223 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty Throttle position sensor
  • Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle position sensor poor electrical connection
  • Faulty accelerator pedal position sensor

P0123 Nissan Possible Causes




  • Faulty throttle position sensor
  • Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Throttle position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Click to expand...
Cheers for above in formation, have been through alot of above and recent scan for faults is showing now zero faults so car should start but doesn`t. turns over fires maybe once then thats it, good sparks etc. At the end of my knowledge of new cars. As I say thanls for reply and help
 
Sparky2018 said:
Btw mine did not take well to a Bluetooth code reader actually it didn't even connect..
What code reader are you using?

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Click to expand...
Sparky2018 said:
Btw mine did not take well to a Bluetooth code reader actually it didn't even connect..
What code reader are you using?

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Click to expand...
Code reader is a Proscan Automotive one using car Doc App on phone. I have to say I`ve always been horses for courses in other words buy a proper reader that just does that like Autel 629 but they are expensive. When plugged my other cheaper scanner in it also came up with no fault codes after last time showing the previous list of codes as started this thread.
 

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I'm going to get the red wired one john d recommends on here.
Not even going to try another one of those for phone because I think there are a lot of fakes around.
It completely ruined my first car experience and I wouldn't trust them like you are showing even if it did connect.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Sparky2018 said:
I'm going to get the red wired one john d recommends on here.
Not even going to try another one of those for phone because I think there are a lot of fakes around.
It completely ruined my first car experience and I wouldn't trust them like you are showing even if it did connect.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Click to expand...
From my experience it`s seems to be worth buying a dedicated reader hard wired and not bluetooth or wifi. I`ll have to stick to older cars with dizzies, rotors and HT leads or even further back, condensers and points in the future :)
 
get a mate / family with rac / aa cover to come over to you and call them out. They can stick a fandangly code reader on and try a few things.

Have you tried bump starting it?
give easy start a go?

Let us know how you get on!
 
Immy said:
get a mate / family with rac / aa cover to come over to you and call them out. They can stick a fandangly code reader on and try a few things.

Have you tried bump starting it?
give easy start a go?

Let us know how you get on!
Click to expand...
Tried all but bump start as your not supposed to bump start injection engines, they work in a different way to the old carb cars. AA is quite expensive to buy. Going to remove injectors as one last try and turn engine over to see if they squirt, then try a new sensor to see if one I bought is broken. Never know it might just be a new but duff sensor.
Keep om going back and forth one minute want to get rid of it but next minute would dearly like to fix it for my own piece of mind.
Especially after fitting alloys, new rear drums, pads, cylinders on and front pads myself.
But how much time do you spend trying ?
 
do you know anyone who is covered by AA / RAC , not car specific just the person is covered.
Get them to call breakdown out and it won't cost you a penny.

I have helped bump start many petrol cars which have injection engines and never had an issue,
 
my understanding is that you can bump start a car as long as the battery is not too low, in an emergency - but that it's to be avoided in the event of low battery because it wears out the alternator quicker. You'd only ever need to do it in the first place if your starter motor burnt out, or if your battery had too little current to start but enough to sustain idle once started

turning the key to "on" primes the fuel pump and there's positive power present at the injectors, then the bump start will allow it to start and after it has it will self-sustain

you can't bump start from completely dead, can't bump start an automatic, can't bump start a big diesel (glowplugs)
 
MattInARedMicra said:
my understanding is that you can bump start a car as long as the battery is not too low, in an emergency - but that it's to be avoided in the event of low battery because it wears out the alternator quicker. You'd only ever need to do it in the first place if your starter motor burnt out, or if your battery had too little current to start but enough to sustain idle once started

turning the key to "on" primes the fuel pump and there's positive power present at the injectors, then the bump start will allow it to start and after it has it will self-sustain

you can't bump start from completely dead, can't bump start an automatic, can't bump start a big diesel (glowplugs)
Click to expand...
Cheers for that, at moment there doesn`t seem to be any fuel in the cylinders as spark plugs don`t smell of fuel or wet. Could be I have just bought a dud camshaft sensor. Buying a new one could sort it but by removing injectors and seeing if they squirt is positive way of making sure. Just got to find out how much new seals are and also gives me a chance to see condition of injectors. Not don`t any of this sort of work before or worked on injected car so should be fun :) :unsure:
 
Lucifers K12 said:
Cheers for that, at moment there doesn`t seem to be any fuel in the cylinders as spark plugs don`t smell of fuel or wet. Could be I have just bought a dud camshaft sensor. Buying a new one could sort it but by removing injectors and seeing if they squirt is positive way of making sure. Just got to find out how much new seals are and also gives me a chance to see condition of injectors. Not don`t any of this sort of work before or worked on injected car so should be fun :) :unsure:
Click to expand...
There's a trick where you can tell if the injectors are pulsing by putting a screwdriver against the outside and then putting your ear on the other end and see if you can hear a ticking sound while someone else turns it over. Take care not to have your hand or hair or loose clothing near any moving parts like the fan or belts and stay clear of the ignition circuits. There are good guides on youtube if you search "screwdriver injector test"

You can also do a fuel rail pressure test, which could diagnose an under-performing fuel pump - which is where the fuel pump functions but doesn't create enough fuel pressure - usually because a seal has failed somewhere further down the line or within the pump assembly, or due to some sort of leak or blockage or crushed lines or similar. Halfords do one for about £15

There are other ways like removing lines and seeing if it squirts or soaking the airfilter with a small amount of fuel and seeing if it will start for a short period of time to rule out certain things as being the problem. They come with risks of fire and I've heard of someone blowing up their exhaust pouring too much fuel down the throttlebody so take care.
 
Last edited:
MattInARedMicra said:
There's a trick where you can tell if the injectors are pulsing by putting a screwdriver against the outside and then putting your ear on the other end and see if you can hear a ticking sound while someone else turns it over. Take care not to have your hand or hair or loose clothing near any moving parts like the fan or belts and stay clear of the ignition circuits. There are good guides on youtube if you search "screwdriver injector test"

You can also do a fuel rail pressure test, which could diagnose an under-performing fuel pump - which is where the fuel pump functions but doesn't create enough fuel pressure - usually because a seal has failed somewhere further down the line or within the pump assembly, or due to some sort of leak or blockage or crushed lines or similar. Halfords do one for about £15

There are other ways like removing lines and seeing if it squirts or soaking the airfilter with a small amount of fuel and seeing if it will start for a short period of time to rule out certain things as being the problem. They come with risks of fire and I've heard of someone blowing up their exhaust pouring too much fuel down the throttlebody so take care.
Click to expand...
With the injectors am just going to place each one in bottle with rag in it to see if squirt. If not then it will point to camshaft sensor. Have bought a second hand set of injectors to plug in and connect to fuel feed. saves having to disturb mine on block. If they squirt then its injectros if not then its sensor and will try another one. Going to wait till cool day as don`t fancy playing with fuel in this excellent weather we`re having
 

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