K12 (RH Drive) Heater Motor Removal / Replacement?

The heater motor, actually my sister in laws K12 this time, definately has a fault (not the resistor module as is usual) ....and last night I tried to remove it.

She was quoted over £600 all in by a Nissan Dealer, the motor alone being £350 excluding the VAT!!!!!

It's not behind the glove compartment like the old K11, it's located in the RH side of the heater unit 'visible' from the drivers side footwell.

It is possible to release it by pushing a tab on the side of the motor unit and twisting it to realease it from it's 'bayonet' fitting (bit like a lightbulb)...easy! The electrical connector releases by easing a plastic clip feature and pivoting it out on the post it is mounted on, not difficult!

HOWEVER!!!! Without some major dismantling of the car It is impossible to remove it :doh:!!!!! There is not enough room between the bulkhead, the heater, the power steering Unit and the clutch pedal unit to get it out. Had it been a left hand drive it would have been a doddle

....Those pesky French!!!!!!

Have just sent off for a Haynes manual but does anyone have any knowledge of the best way to do this?????? :(

Steve
 
Hi I haven't recieved anything? I've been quoted £600 but I can't afford that and want to try and do it myself.
Hi Nia
Did you get anywhere with this? I have the same issue and, having swapped resistor packs, I have to thump the surround to the fan to get it going so would like to replace it. Regards
John
 
i found that the connector into the motor, as in the plug, is not making good contact. I think nissan outsourced the design to a kindergarden somewhere. I end up shoving my hand under the dash cover, and wiggling the plug every time. gets quite fun in traffic. havent been able to come up with a better solution.
 
I got it out of the dash top but had to cut right hand side plastic air vent duct in half. Duck taped it back together when i finished. A second hand motor cost 20 notes
 
i changed fan motor today / it can be replaced by removing clutch peddle ass /black plastic vent through firewall/2 screws removes half thats in the way /side vent on body of heater box/ and also slide in shelf/ i did damage old fan unit getting it out so had to be more carefull putting the new one back in / the key to fitting new one is to turn motor side on as it is wider than it is long/and a bit of turning/ to pass top clutch peddle bolt and in it went /1 to 2 hours work
 
I wriggled the wire every time it went off, yes the plug seems to be faulty, but eventually it has stopped working.
Has anyone been able to reapair the plug, as it seems that this is the fault, where the wire goes into the fan at the top. The fan works fine, its just the connection of the wire.

thanks
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I wriggled the wire every time it went off, yes the plug seems to be faulty, but eventually it has stopped working.
Has anyone been able to reapair the plug, as it seems that this is the fault, where the wire goes into the fan at the top. The fan works fine, its just the connection of the wire.

thanks
Have the same problem, mine finally stopped working this week :mad: As far as I know you can get access to the plug by removing the dash top, something I will attempt next week some time, currently 'making do' by using my Saab which has fully functioning ice cold aircon:cool:
 
I wriggled the wire every time it went off, yes the plug seems to be faulty, but eventually it has stopped working.
Has anyone been able to reapair the plug, as it seems that this is the fault, where the wire goes into the fan at the top. The fan works fine, its just the connection of the wire.

thanks

I replaced my wifes heater on her rhd micra about 7 years ago at a nissan garage, when the car was worth something.

I had fiddled with the wires for some time, before it eventually gave up working.

Now the new motor is playing up in the same way.

After reading these posts it is now becoming obvious that the spade connectors in the motor are burning and becoming non conductive.

I am now trying a new method to prevent further arching in the hope that it saves the connectors from further damage.

Instead of pulling the wires, I have concluded that putting pressure on the connector would make a better connection.

I achieved this by forcing a piece of expanding foam packing material between the motor connector and the inside of the upper dash surface by reaching up to the motor from underneath the dash, forcing the connector to sit properly.

To minimise further arching between the motor contacts, I have asked the wife to turn the heater motor off before
starting the car.

When the car is started she can build up the speed and resulting current on the motor slowly instead of the full power which is no doubt happening if the switch is left on all the time at the highest speed . This should hopefully prevent or at least minimise any severe arching.

Heres hoping.
 
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