K12 micra issues

[Stani1029]

i have something killing the battery on my 1.2 2003 k12 micra. last time i asked as per the facebook site i was told 100% its the alternator eventhough it was in perfect working condition (in my opinion) but £200 later the car is no different. Its also got its third new battery fitted in the space of a year. All earths have been removed cleaned and refitted, ive done a drain test and it doesnt show a massive drain.

Im currently locked outside the car because the battery is very flat, AND the ignition barrel must have been changed because the key doesnt unlock the passenger door so now i need to awkwardly reach up from under the car to jump it!

Any pointers as im seriously ready to scrap a perfectly working low mileage car

 

[Paapz0r]

Do you drive long enough to have the battery charge properly?

....

ive done a drain test and it doesnt show a massive drain.

....

Not massive, but its still a drain.
Few little drains together, make a bigger one.

Maybe check for features on the car that are aftermarket/not original.
And build in later

Think of radio, lighting, etc. and check the wiring, see if its connected the proper way. Maybe shut them off and see if the battery is still being drained even if you shut off these sorts of things?

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[Stani1029]

Thanks for reply, yes car is driven nearly everyday for a few miles per day

All interior lighting have been unplugged for a couple months now aswell as the complete radio and the problem still happens. All door switches have been checked too and showing no issues. There is no aftermarket parts fitted, completely standard car

 

[Paapz0r]

Immobiliser issues?

Try removing the central locking fuses for a few days and see what happens.

Maybe get an auto electrician on it to maybe narrow it down for you.

Not sure what it could be.

Since you already replaced the alternator and the battery, drop testing is not neccesary as well.

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[John_D]

Light in boot not going out when tailgate closed perhaps?

 

[Stani1029]

Light in boot not going out when tailgate closed perhaps?

Its disconnected, all interior lights have been for months

 

[Stani1029]

Im coming across a few threads online about the ecu software needing updated from nissan because it suddenly blips and draws current from the battery when switched off.

Anyone done this?

 

[John_D]

Its disconnected, all interior lights have been for months

It might pay to carefully pull back the rubber corrugated sleeve that goes from the body to the tailgate and unwrap the wires inside and check for a break/short circuit. I had broken wires here on my K12, stopped the tailgate unlocking, but just as easily could have caused a high resistance short circuit through the rear wiper as well.......
Another possibility is a high resistance short circuit in a connector due to corrosion/water ingress, perhaps unplug the ECU and inspect connections and spray with switch cleaner before re-assembling?........

 

[Mika The Finn]

Stani1029,
Have you checked plus and minus cables from battery?
And cable to alternator? Any dirt, corrosion on those cables can cause problems you have.

 

[Stani1029]

It might pay to carefully pull back the rubber corrugated sleeve that goes from the body to the tailgate and unwrap the wires inside and check for a break/short circuit. I had broken wires here on my K12, stopped the tailgate unlocking, but just as easily could have caused a high resistance short circuit through the rear wiper as well.......
Another possibility is a high resistance short circuit in a connector due to corrosion/water ingress, perhaps unplug the ECU and inspect connections and spray with switch cleaner before re-assembling?........

Occasionally we have found pressing the key for a second time doesnt always open the boot/passenger door so i will check this

Stani1029,
Have you checked plus and minus cables from battery?
And cable to alternator? Any dirt, corrosion on those cables can cause problems you have.

And they have all been removed/checked and cleaned

 

[Stani1029]

Im now in the car, currently trying to jump start. Is it normal for their to be nothing when you turn the key on these models after a failed first try?

As in nothing from the starter

 

[Stani1029]

Car now starting, im honestly shocked at how difficult this car is being. Battery was showing enough voltage to start but starter was only turning for a second before shutting off. Then i would get nothing from the starter at all eventhough its getting 14v from my other car.

Then the engine was fully turning over but wouldnt fire up, tried all i could so packed up and gave it one final turn and it started!!!! WTF!!!!!!!

Now have the engine management light on but thats maybe because i disconnected the cam
Sensor and havent took he car for a drive yet.

PLEASE has anyone had these issues

 

[plmval]

Car now starting, im honestly shocked at how difficult this car is being. Battery was showing enough voltage to start but starter was only turning for a second before shutting off. Then i would get nothing from the starter at all eventhough its getting 14v from my other car.

Then the engine was fully turning over but wouldnt fire up, tried all i could so packed up and gave it one final turn and it started!!!! WTF!!!!!!!

Now have the engine management light on but thats maybe because i disconnected the cam
Sensor and havent took he car for a drive yet.

PLEASE has anyone had these issues

How to test & find a parasitic draw in a logical sequence video.

For K12 a normal draw would be less than 50 mA approx .



Follow the whole video tutorial for test procedure sequence.
Try not to hold any one fuse out of its fuse holder for more than 25 seconds in each item.

Lastly, don’t forget the fuses in in BCM/IPDM, a common fault source.

Good luck parasite draw fault finding.

 

[Mika The Finn]

Mine and others Harley-Davidson's have had same problems with battery. Dead battery shows good voltage, but can't storage or give amps.
Have you taken your battery to car electronics shop and have it tested with capacity tester?

 

[Stani1029]

I have already done parasitic drain tests and its the immobiliser fuse that has the largest drop. And since i have performed it again the car no longer starts! I have read various threads where people have had their software on the ecu/bcm updated and it solves the issue but i contacted nissan and they have no clue. And said its £80 to check.....

 

[plmval]

I have already done parasitic drain tests and its the immobiliser fuse that has the largest drop. And since i have performed it again the car no longer starts! I have read various threads where people have had their software on the ecu/bcm updated and it solves the issue but i contacted nissan and they have no clue. And said its £80 to check.....

1. Fault codes? Is the CEL or immobiliser light flashing?
2. Bat needs full 8 hours charge to restore capacity.
3. Flooding & then ECU cuts off fuel & it will not start? Hold WOT to clear excess fuel to start. That’s if the motorised throttle will allow WOT whilst attempting to start??

Just about of ideas, has anybody else had anymore K12 viable optional ideas?
Keep trying as you have to be in it to beat this K12 minefield of pitfalls.

 

[Mika The Finn]

Has your battery been tested: "Dead battery shows good voltage, but can't storage or give amps.
Have you taken your battery to car electronics shop and have it tested with capacity tester?"

-Mika-

 

[Stani1029]

Battery has been tested and replaced as one was faulty. Think ive whittled it down to being the key/immobiliser.

We get a 50ma drop when that fuse is removed. It would explain the randomness from it starting and i had a fault code of p1611

Immobiliser light hasnt flashed at all

 

[plmval]

Battery has been tested and replaced as one was faulty. Think ive whittled it down to being the key/immobiliser.

We get a 50ma drop when that fuse is removed. It would explain the randomness from it starting and i had a fault code of p1611

Immobiliser light hasnt flashed at all

Google: P1611 = ID Discord & engine cranks but will not start. Targeted trouble shooting guides suggest a immobiliser issue such as:~ fuse no pwr /wiring/connector pin out/ relay fault? Keep on it to win it.

http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content/together_dtc_p1611

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=P...x-b&gfe_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=-T56WuSxM_GGtge73rrwDw

 

[John SA]

1. Fault codes? Is the CEL or immobiliser light flashing?
2. Bat needs full 8 hours charge to restore capacity.
3. Flooding & then ECU cuts off fuel & it will not start? Hold WOT to clear excess fuel to start. That’s if the motorised throttle will allow WOT whilst attempting to start??

Just about of ideas, has anybody else had anymore K12 viable optional ideas?
Keep trying as you have to be in it to beat this K12 minefield of pitfalls.

Hi I'm having the same problem, I've change coils, alternator, starter, ecu, spark plug, all sensors. And nothing battery, but nothing won't start light and engine light on and nothing won't start, just cranks, ecu cuts fuel no spark . The only thing I have not found is the low voltage to the sensors it bot there when I test. please help.

 

[John SA]

Hi no Nats light is off, error code camshaft sensors, I'm going to but a new one today, but I had two old ones so I have tried 3 now.
But when I put on the key and check voltage I don't have 5 volts on the signal wire but don't know where to check for it.

 

[Lawnmowerman50]

Hi there have u checked tailgate button switches,top one on my misses K12 was shot boot kept unlocking itself, eventually the battery was dead ,2 day from full to dead, replace button from ebay bout £15 all sorted hope this helps.
Graham

 

[Duckham]

Just to help with the fault finding, when trying to find a parasitic drain on our K12 I found that when the doors was locked and immobiliser set there was an initial high current that dropped after a few minutes as the electronics went to sleep.
The cause of the drain was the multi CD player. Although it appeared to be switched off it it actually wasn't, due to a jammed CD.