K12 blower

I have a 2004 1.2 micra that has an intermittent problem with the blower. If it's a very warm day I start the engine turn the blower switch and there is nothing on all four levels. If I wait a few minutes then I get all 4 levels on the blower working again and this will stay working for a few weeks and repeat again.
Is this most likely the blower resistor on the way out.
Thanks.
 
Hi Rob1971,

It does sound like the resister pack beginning to fail, especially as it starts to work when the unit has got warm. I had mine stop working on position 1 and 2 where 3 and 4 still worked so I replaced it.

It's located behind the glovebox so that has to come out to get to it I'm afraid. Not too difficult to do. The resister is then just a simply swap.

There is a video on youtube that shows you how to get to it and where it is located.


Thanks,

Chris
 
Hi I am having a similar problem only mine has stopped working completely,Only had the car 1 month and previous owner said blower only worked intermittently now nothing...could this also be the resister card or could it be the motor,Have asked about blower before but got no response....thanks
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I had a similar problem, blower stopped working on all settings, traced it to a badly seating connection plug on the top of the blower motor, can be reached by feeling above the pedals onto the blower motor casing. Pushing the plug hard down on the blower casing cured it and the problem hasn't re-occurred, now several months and a few thousand miles since I did this.....
 
Hi all,

If its completely stopped working then it could be the resistor pack, motor or as John D states just a dodgy or loose connection.

I would firstly do the cheapest option and check the connections to ensure they appear to be ok or not.

If the connections seem to be ok and it's still not working then you can test the motor and/or the resister itself.

You can test the power supply to the motor and see if the motor is receiving any voltage at all.

If there is power to the motor on every position on the blower and the motor does not work then the problem is the motor or the connector at the motor end.

If there is no power on one or more of the positions on the blower then it's most likely the resister pack at fault.

You can check the power and voltages with a multimeter and thats pretty easy to do.

The resister packs are usually the culprit but doing some diagnostics will rule out any other causes and could save you money if it's just a loose connection.

Thanks,

Chris
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
While the resistor pack is 'fairly' easy to get to, access to the blower motor on the K12, to do any testing on or replacement, is an absolute nightmare requiring major stripping down of the dash and removal of the heater unit :eek:. As I said above it is possible, without removing anything, to feel up, above the pedals, and locate the connection block on top of the motor to make sure that it is seating correctly. It might be possible to see it by removing the top dash panel but can't confirm that. AFAIK the 'usual' fail state of the resistor pack is to leave the motor running on a single speed and not to be completely dead on all speeds.............
 
Hi John D,

Yes exactly. It's a pain getting to the motor connectors to test voltages if the connections appear to be well seated. You can also test the voltages from the resister end to rule out the resister itself as it might just be not working at all. The problem could also be a lack of power to the resister pack altogether, a fuse possibly.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Hi all thanks for the advice,Have tried to feel for connector on blower as advised and push it firmly...no joy there and fuses all ok so next step is resister,not sure how to check with meter (where to put probes or what reading I should be getting)so any I do would be much appreciated
 
Hi Dazman 61,

You can use the ohms setting of a multimeter to test the pack itself and to test the resistance.

You should take out the resister and unplug from it's power source to test it.

I can't remember which pin is the feed.

I haven't got a resister pack at hand to test. Otherwise I'd check which. If I can find an electrical diagram then I'll post up the pin layout.

If you get a reading on the multimeter of 1 in ohms then there is no connection and the circuit is open.

You normally just have to touch pin 1 with the red multimeter cable and then in turn connect the black multimeter cable to pin 2, then 3 and then 4 in turn checking each reading. You should get a reading for all three other pins (2,3,4).

If you get a number then there is a connection across the pins. If it reads 1 then it's an open circuit and the resister should be replaced.

If you get readings on all then the problem is somewhere else.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Hi Dazman 61,

You can use the ohms setting of a multimeter to test the pack itself and to test the resistance.

You should take out the resister and unplug from it's power source to test it.

I can't remember which pin is the feed.

I haven't got a resister pack at hand to test. Otherwise I'd check which. If I can find an electrical diagram then I'll post up the pin layout.

If you get a reading on the multimeter of 1 in ohms then there is no connection and the circuit is open.

You normally just have to touch pin 1 with the red multimeter cable and then in turn connect the black multimeter cable to pin 2, then 3 and then 4 in turn checking each reading. You should get a reading for all three other pins (2,3,4).

If you get a number then there is a connection across the pins. If it reads 1 then it's an open circuit and the resister should be replaced.

If you get readings on all then the problem is somewhere else.

Thanks,

Chris
Hi Chris I decided to opt for a replacement resister as old one looked a bit corroded,fitted it and still nothing!!!! fuses ok.Finding it hard even to get my hand up to feel for motor connector so thinking it could be the motor itself,any ideas on getting motor out,have read about removing it from top of dash (fiddly) or whole dash out (nightmare)or removing clutch pedal to drop motor (can barely see it)so at a standstill at the moment.
 
Hi Dazman,

It sounds like it's time to test the motor as you seem to have ruled out the easy items first. It's normally the resistor at fault and as it's easy to get to it's better to test those first.

I've never taken the blower motor out but I believe it can be a nightmare to get out. I've heard of people taking the pedals off to get to it and try to get it out.

I'd first test that the motor is actually receiving power before going to all the hassle of trying to get the whole motor out. Can you get to connector on the blower motor and unplug it? Is there then enough room to get a multimeter onto the pins in the connector? If there is power then you know for sure it's the motor itself.

I'll take a look at mine and see if I can get to my connector in order to test it in some way.

If you live near me then I'd be only too happy to help.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Hi. I have a micra K12 1.2 and i have a problem with the blower. It works in all 4 positions but at 3 and 4 makes to much noise. It sounds like something is bothering the blower. That happened when i turned the air switch and it stacked for a while. Can anyone help me with that problem.
Thank you
 
Hi Babis,

What sort of noise is it making? Is it an electrical noise or a vibrating noise?

The motor may not be getting the right resistance from the resistor or the blower is failing or seizing possibly.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Hi Chris and thank you for your reply. The noise is vibrating. I try to clean the blower with air, it had some dust, but the noise is the same. Maybe is the motor's bearing?
 
Hi Babis,

Yes it could be the motor itself. Maybe the motor has come loose and when at high rotation it causes the whole motor assembly to vibrate.

Try and access it to make sure the motor assembly is secured in place.

Thanks,

Chris
 
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