micra_pete
Ex. Club Member
Info by me / John - rc micra turbo owner
right first of all, if you don't know what parts you need, then you will not be capable of turbocharging your car and you will end up blowing your engine up.
however I will try to clear some things up
you will need, to reach and decent power, 120bhp +
turbocharger manifold, and no, you cannot use this with a N/A setup! this if well made will see more power than one that is not.
good down-pipe
a turbocharger - ideally T2 or T25 and no a turbo isn't just a turbo
intercooler, of decent size and quality
pipework from turbocharger to intercooler, and intercooler to throttle body
good, decent size airfilter and piping to turbocharger.
you will certainly need uprated injectors, as the cg13 ones will limit your power to below 130 the ga16 slot in, if you want bigger you will need a custom fuel rail.
or you could use a extra injector setup.
you will also need a capable ecu, standard ecu re-map (if you can find someone to do it) best option imo, but I don't know anyone here in the uk who can do it, a good piggy-back unit or a full stand-alone, as the standard ecu runs far too lean for turbocharging. and it wont hurt to retard ignition.
you will also need a more capable clutch, as the standard one will quickly disappear. excedy do a good one.
your gearbox will work, but driven hard, lots will break.
also, higher boosts have been achieved on standard internals, but 10psi seems to be the daily limit before a piston says good-bye.
I know a very good amount on the kit from the states, the full bolt on kit will see 120bhp tops, but it has very good scope for tuning.
I would suggest that when combined with a 2mm head gasket, uprated head stud kit and a decent intercooler to keep charge temps down that 15psi is the safe limit for pistons/rods (from experience 18psi and injector failure isn't )
The Kappatsu kit is a decent power bolt on turbo kit I know of. Trying to get hold of it is nigh on impossible, trying to remap it for UK fueling etc., and getting any sort of sensible after sales support will be even more impossible.
An Exedy paddle clutch will suit most people. After that, the only other viable options are custom, like the twin plate WMM made for Jo's. Gearbox, if maintained well and with regular oil changes, can cope with a LSD and 200bhp +
For best results you will want a fully mapable ECU (or at a minimum an Emanage or unichip). Piggy back controllers, extra injectors etc, may seem like a cheaper alternative to start with, but they take a lot more setting up and do not give a "refined" result (speaking from experience here guys so listen up wink.gif )
You will need a 2" exhaust from turbo back with as few restrictions as possible. Other important things (easily overlooked though) are colder spark plugs (we use HKS S40i), competition leads, uprated fuel pump (Walbro do one), dump valve (recirc/vent to air - whatever your preference), adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You have to be clever with some of the vacuum circuits aswell (I can't remember which ones off the top of my head). Basically you are turbo charging an engine that isn't designed to be turbocharged and there are parts of the vacuum system that will object to being under pressure. Probably the servo assist on the brakes is one of them....
Most people forget about compression. A bolt on kit with a standard gasket, studs and no intercooler is probably good for an absolute maximum of 6psi I reckon
1bar on 2mm head gasket is OK for daily driving. MAF maxes out at 1 bar, possibly earlier, hence the previous difficulties RC had when mapping all the piggy back stuff and extra injector. Ignition very difficult to map due to std dizzy not having a timing signal (or something like that, Clive explained it to me a long while ago now).
PowerFC + GTiR AFM, dizzy and ignition modules made a VAST improvement to cars driveability, fuel economy and responsiveness. The ignition is now setup so that whatever the PowerFC is set at, that is exactly what it is at the crank, unlike some piggy back stuff where you have to advance the ignition a long way then use the piggy back to retard it. Disadvantage here is that if the piggy back fails, the engine timing is set too high and bang goes engine.
Piston on Jo's car went at 1.2bar when mapping around town, primarily due to a second hand S14 injector failing. It didn't hole the piston, a small bit cracked off the crown, just enough to expose the rings and lose compression. Engine was rebuilt with new std piston and ONE, yes, just one set of new rings, as there was no signs of wear on the other cylinders despite several thousand miles of hard driving at 1bar.
im sure ed would like to add / amend
right first of all, if you don't know what parts you need, then you will not be capable of turbocharging your car and you will end up blowing your engine up.
however I will try to clear some things up
you will need, to reach and decent power, 120bhp +
turbocharger manifold, and no, you cannot use this with a N/A setup! this if well made will see more power than one that is not.
good down-pipe
a turbocharger - ideally T2 or T25 and no a turbo isn't just a turbo
intercooler, of decent size and quality
pipework from turbocharger to intercooler, and intercooler to throttle body
good, decent size airfilter and piping to turbocharger.
you will certainly need uprated injectors, as the cg13 ones will limit your power to below 130 the ga16 slot in, if you want bigger you will need a custom fuel rail.
or you could use a extra injector setup.
you will also need a capable ecu, standard ecu re-map (if you can find someone to do it) best option imo, but I don't know anyone here in the uk who can do it, a good piggy-back unit or a full stand-alone, as the standard ecu runs far too lean for turbocharging. and it wont hurt to retard ignition.
you will also need a more capable clutch, as the standard one will quickly disappear. excedy do a good one.
your gearbox will work, but driven hard, lots will break.
also, higher boosts have been achieved on standard internals, but 10psi seems to be the daily limit before a piston says good-bye.
I know a very good amount on the kit from the states, the full bolt on kit will see 120bhp tops, but it has very good scope for tuning.
I would suggest that when combined with a 2mm head gasket, uprated head stud kit and a decent intercooler to keep charge temps down that 15psi is the safe limit for pistons/rods (from experience 18psi and injector failure isn't )
The Kappatsu kit is a decent power bolt on turbo kit I know of. Trying to get hold of it is nigh on impossible, trying to remap it for UK fueling etc., and getting any sort of sensible after sales support will be even more impossible.
An Exedy paddle clutch will suit most people. After that, the only other viable options are custom, like the twin plate WMM made for Jo's. Gearbox, if maintained well and with regular oil changes, can cope with a LSD and 200bhp +
For best results you will want a fully mapable ECU (or at a minimum an Emanage or unichip). Piggy back controllers, extra injectors etc, may seem like a cheaper alternative to start with, but they take a lot more setting up and do not give a "refined" result (speaking from experience here guys so listen up wink.gif )
You will need a 2" exhaust from turbo back with as few restrictions as possible. Other important things (easily overlooked though) are colder spark plugs (we use HKS S40i), competition leads, uprated fuel pump (Walbro do one), dump valve (recirc/vent to air - whatever your preference), adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You have to be clever with some of the vacuum circuits aswell (I can't remember which ones off the top of my head). Basically you are turbo charging an engine that isn't designed to be turbocharged and there are parts of the vacuum system that will object to being under pressure. Probably the servo assist on the brakes is one of them....
Most people forget about compression. A bolt on kit with a standard gasket, studs and no intercooler is probably good for an absolute maximum of 6psi I reckon
1bar on 2mm head gasket is OK for daily driving. MAF maxes out at 1 bar, possibly earlier, hence the previous difficulties RC had when mapping all the piggy back stuff and extra injector. Ignition very difficult to map due to std dizzy not having a timing signal (or something like that, Clive explained it to me a long while ago now).
PowerFC + GTiR AFM, dizzy and ignition modules made a VAST improvement to cars driveability, fuel economy and responsiveness. The ignition is now setup so that whatever the PowerFC is set at, that is exactly what it is at the crank, unlike some piggy back stuff where you have to advance the ignition a long way then use the piggy back to retard it. Disadvantage here is that if the piggy back fails, the engine timing is set too high and bang goes engine.
Piston on Jo's car went at 1.2bar when mapping around town, primarily due to a second hand S14 injector failing. It didn't hole the piston, a small bit cracked off the crown, just enough to expose the rings and lose compression. Engine was rebuilt with new std piston and ONE, yes, just one set of new rings, as there was no signs of wear on the other cylinders despite several thousand miles of hard driving at 1bar.
im sure ed would like to add / amend
