K11 Throttle body....

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum, but I've owned my plucky little K11 for six years!

Unfortunately, after serving my family for nearly eight years, its stopped working. The dizzy failed and has been replaced with a new part from autojapspares.co.uk but the car is still very much down on power and runs poorly, suggesting the throttle body has given up too.

The PCB on the MAF has already been resoldered for me by another company (for freee!) but unfortunately this hasn't solved the problem, so I'm trying to obtain a replacement.

Now. My problem.

A company on e-bay (bba-reman) offer a remanufactured TB for £85 (plus your old unit). Unfortunately, their part number is:

16119-0U00

However, Nissan's part number (quoted over the phone from my Reg Number) for my 1998 K11 1.0 Ally is:

16119-72B00

bba-reman are crap at answering their phones or email SO..... do you guys know if I can use the BBA-REMAN part in place of my existing, despite the different part-numbers?

Many thanks for any answers or advice!

Neil
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
you can get them cheaper at the scrappers and if it doesnt work take it back to replace with a next one
thats all i know myself
and welcome home of the micra
 

andy

Ex. Club Member
hello and welcome neil.............never had any dealings with that company .....but i got my throttle bodie from ecu-testing. all i did was ring them up tell them what i needed, sent the old one to them and they sent a recon, fitted it job done and ya get 3 year unlimited mileage.




Contact

Opening times:
Monday - Friday 9:00am - 5:30pm GMT

Telephone UK: 01773 535638
Telephone International: ++441773535638
(When calling with an ECU enquiry please make sure you have your ECU part number ready.)

email: info@ecu-testing.com

Sending an ECU in for testing:
When posting in an ECU for test/repair please first fill out this ECU test form Remember ECU’s travel very well as long as they are well padded with bubble wrap inside a good box.

Recomended courier:
Inside the UK - Royal mail special delivery
Outside the UK - FedEx or UPS Express

Address:

ECU-Testing
23A Church Street
Eastwood
Nottingham
NG16 3HP

hope that helps
 
Many thanks for the recommendation on ecu-testing. It seems my throttle body is a slightly obscure type - I guess possibly because its one of the later models before the facelift was re-facelifted and converted to the bosch-type throttle bodies.
Whichever way, ecu-testing can't send a remanufactured throttle body straight out to replace my existing. Instead I have to send them mine for them to refurbish and send back to me.

Now I just need to find an opportunity to pull it out of the car...!

I'll report back when all's done and we'll see if my little runabout runs about like it should.

Thanks for the help!

Neil
 
still no joy and sixty quid poorer...

Sent off the unit to ECU testing only for them to inform me that the throttle body is fully-functioning. Unfortunately, that meant I had to stump up their extortionate 'testing' fee - £35 PLUS VAT PLUS POSTAGE, totalling about £51 and on top of that the £11 the post-office charged me to send it off in the first place. So that's £60 out of pocket and back where I started.

Not happy.

Personally, I can't recommend ECU-testing on the basis of their 'kick-in-the-nuts' testing fee.

Unfortunately, this means I still have a non-functioning car.

My symptoms sound very much like throttle-body failure. Very poor driveability, loss of power, occasionally inconsistent idling (especially when cold). Power drops off almost completely when hot, becoming completely unresponsive to anything but a light throttle. It happened after fitting a brand new distributor to the car (the distributor definitely isn't the issue).

So.... any suggestions for what else my problem could be? I'm at a bit of a loss now...

Any help at all, greatly appreciated!

Neil
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
you can get them cheaper at the scrappers and if it doesnt work take it back to replace with a next one
thats all i know myself
and welcome home of the micra
ok
sorry didnt get the year of the k11
and a self diagnostic works on earlyer ones
 
Ah yeah, good point. I need to run another diagnostic test. I have run one previously (since replacing the dizzy) and its shown no fault codes, though...

I'm kinda thinking it might be fuel starvation - so either a weak fuel-pump or (I hope!) a blocked fuel strainer. It would be consistent with power dropping off markedly when going uphill - maybe the pump's struggling to push fuel up from the back of the car... Would a weak fuel pump (as opposed to a failed one) still show up a fault code?

Does anyone have any other suggestions before I start trying to stick my hands into 20litres of fuel?!
 
Thanks for the link to Humph's troubles, Frank. I'll keep an eye on that thread and see if there are any developments. I've also found a thread by SuluR who seems to have had very similar problems to mine, so I've asked him for an update.

I reinstalled the TB this afternoon and went for a short run.

I'm looking at two possibilities at the moment:

Fuel starvation - as mentioned earlier - although parking the car uphill and downhill seemed to make no difference to idle speed or throttle response. The fuel pump seems to work fine - priming audibly for a couple of seconds after switching ignition to position 2.

Lambda Sensor - throttle response drops off markedly as the car warms up, suggesting to me a fuel-regulation issue. This website

http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/Content.aspx?page=Nissan Ignition Problems

suggests that a faulty lambda sensor could give similar issues to a faulty TB. But surely if the lambda sensor was faulty, all would be running rich, complete with smoke... of which there is none. My suspicions still err towards the engine running lean...

I think I may give up and drop the car off at a local garage. Hmph... I'll kick myself if they repair it with something I could have done myself!
 
My bad - simple timing issue...

Ok, anyone who stumbles on this thread with the same problem - in my case I had merely not set the timing properly. I had read the timing marks the wrong way round!

Here's the correct sequence to time the car.

Engine off:

Loosen dizzy bolts
disconnect TPS, attach timing light to ignition cable 1 (nearest timing chain on left of engine)
Check all electrical ancillaries are switched off (interior fan, dome light, radio etc)

Turn engine on:

Wait until its warmed through - when warm enough the revs drop suddenly to a low idle. Idle with TPS disconnected is 600rpm, rather than 650 when still connected.

Rotate dizzy to adjust timing to 15 degrees BTDC. This is the second mark on the pulley from the front of the engine bay. Top Dead Centre is marked in yellow, with each increment being 5º.

The marks run from back to front:
- 5ºATDC
- TDC (yellow spot)
- 5ºBTDC
- 10º
- 15º (ideal timing)
- 20º

tighten bolts, recheck, turn off, detach timing light and reconnect TPS etc, etc...

The Haynes manual also mentioned stopping if the fan kicks in and waiting for it to stop before continuing to adjust the timing. My mechanic also suggested giving the throttle a couple of big blips before checking the timing.

I hope that helps out a few people who find themselves in a similar situation!
 
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