K11 project

I lil more work today.

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Got tired of not seeing what is in my boot in the dark and as I found the OEM boot lamp useless decided to do some changes :)

So a lil strip of LEDs pjg1979 has given me AGES a got me what I wanted (Y)
 
Nice car mate I have the same springs in a box in the garage just waiting to go on did you have any problems putting them on ?

Not at all, Dave. I replaced the rear one by myself. For the front went to a friends garage to use their special tool. Even though I bought one cheap, I was too worried to use it. Decided to be careful and have it done the secure way :)

Do you have an adj panhard rod to replace the standard one?
 
I'm afraid you need it, mate, big time.
Check some more info on here 'bout the panhard rods and why it's so important to have it properly set... If you need some help, let me know, I'd make some time to explain you...
 
Spring compressors.
If you try to take the old springs off without them you will get whats known in the industry as spring in the face syndrome.
 
HI, mate...



Here is a copy-paste of a most credible info about them rods:

Panhard rod suspension

Here's a simple illustration to demonstrate the problem with the rear suspension set up that micras have. To prevent the axle being offset too far as in the second picture when the car is lowered, you should get an adjustable length panhard link.


panhard-uncompressed.gif
Panhard link (blue) when suspension is fully uncompressed and standard


panhard-compressed.gif
Panhard link (blue) when suspension is either compressed or (lowered and uncompressed)

As you can see, in the second picture, if you simply put shorted springs in your car without shortening the length of the panhard link, your rear axle offset becomes too great, and the left wheel becomes further in under the guard while the right wheel protrudes further out past the guard.
An adjustable panhard link will enable the axle to have a decent starting offset even while the car is lowered. There's nothing you can do about the axle offset increasing as the suspension is compressed ie when hitting a bump, however if you set the offset up correctly when uncompressed, its not an issue as it doesn't change enough to worry about when hitting bumps etc.
Additionally, from my discussions with Whiteline Automotive after overhauling my suspension, they told me that lowering without an adjustable panhard rod also had a terrible effect on the rear axle toe. This makes perfect sense, as its a multi-link design, when the axle offset changes, so does the rear axle toe. Basically one wheel's toe was almost straight while the other had massive toe-out (terrible for handling and tyre wear).


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More advanced designs like the "Watts link" featured on solid axle rear wheel drive Ford Falcons combat this problem by a weird swivel type link mounted in a central position. This eliminates the one-way axle offset issue associated with the panhard link design.


The panhard link design allthough frustrating at first, is simple and easy to make perform well.






Now... I have lowered my car with only 30-35 mm and used a substitute of an adjustable panhard rod - Frank's made bushes:

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You may ask Frank off here to do a set of them for you. They're about 12GBP. I have them on and they do the job, But I experienced this:


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It's down to my style of driving and the bushes combined I suppose, cause here you have no flexibility, the bushes are fixed and tight. I replaced the snapped rod and had no probs so far, but I'm already looking at the other option:


A proper adj panhard rod.


You can either:
a) make your own


http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?50882-DIY-adjustable-panhard-rod-%A311.20




b) get Noddie off here to do one for you


http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/44028-F-S-Adjustable-Panhard-Rod


c) buy a brand new one(easy enough to find, from Mat Humphris off here for example)









It's all up to you what you want to do.

If you are to go any lower in the future, the adjustable panhard rod is a MUST.



I should have gone for it at first place, but did not know that The Lowering Bug would catch me sooo fast :p


(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y) Best of luck!
 
Need help here, lads...

Today I fitted this:

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But in two places leans on or pushes these:

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I drove the car for a mile and you can hear knocks in both sides of the engine bay.
So it's removed now until I get some more ideas what to do...

Anyone?:down:
 
Have not compared them yet. I think a washer under the rear hole would do the job... I'll try tomorrow
 
Wing mirrors fitted:

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Also did a bit of work on DIY clock for my dash:

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Have not decided where to position it yet:

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Clock nearly finished

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Can't decide yet what would be the best place.
Today I found one more option to choose from:

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Update:

Got a hold of E-series Pioneer speakers and decided to utilize them
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Rear seat went in the attic and some work began.
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Played around with some expanding foam. Filled the passenger side's compartment with it, but realized it will affect the low frequency. Trimmed it a bit left it as it is for now. Driver's side panels are covered with sound deadening like material and didn't not fill with foam
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Side panel removed
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Measurement taken
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Wood frame cut
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Trimmed the panel
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Speaker frame upholstered
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Speaker fitted. It's too big, but that's what I have so in future if I can get a set of 13's or 17's I can easy make and adapter to fit.
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Fitted on panel
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Ready to go
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Moved the active sub from underneath the pass seat to the rear of the car. For now it's hanging as it is. Not much options to choose from.
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And how it looks now :)
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Sounds great, already working on getting an extra sub and amp. Looking for a slim line Pioneer.
 
Do I spy new wing mirrors Peposhi?

Yes, you got it right :)

When I gave up using(after 5 days actually) that wonderful LHD door mirrors I got from Taiwan, decided to do something about it and got a new set from a diff supplier. Difficult to fit though o_O
 
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