K11 Pre-Facelift Rev-Counter Wiring Procedures

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#1
Due to recent demand I have moved this guide i made months ago into it's very own thread, so that it's now much more easy to find. Although these procedures are for the Pre-Facelift model K11, i believe that they are the same for the Facelift model with exception to the Coil-Pack version.
Those of you with Coil-Pack K11's will just have to check that the wiring is the same before fiddling around with it. Right, don your lab-coats and let's begin. :p

Ok boys and girls, the first thing you need to do (assuming that the clocks are already fitted) is to remove the lower potion of the dash/centre console to gain access to the ECU (the section below the heater dials).
Behind the side panel next to the clutch pedal (Right-hand drive models), there is a very large white plastic plug/connector ("Big White Connector"), screwed into the floor. This is where the wiring harness plugs into the short ECU Harness.

Take a good look at the diagram, noting the colour order of the wires.
(Note: this diagram is of ONE side of the Big White Connector, it does not show an “in one end and out the other” type view, just one side ok? Good stuff.)



On the diagram I have arrowed a Blue & Black wire... this wire runs up to the rev-counter (if you are unsure you can always follow the wire from the clocks, down to the Big White Connector).



Now at this point I need to assign names to things so that;
1. It's easier for me to explain
2. It’s easier for people to understand what I’m saying.

"ECU Harness" - The very short harness that connects the ECU to the Big White Connector (On one end is the ECU Plug and on the other end is side 2 of the Big White Connector)

"ECU Plug" - The plug/connector on the side of the ECU i.e. actually plugged into it.

"Big White Connector" - What I am referring to is both parts together in the connected state.
Remember that the Big White Connector is actually TWO connectors, one male and the other female, which are plugged into one another, (there is no need to separate them).

Ok; "side 1" is the side shown in the diagram, with the Blue & Black (rev-counter) wire going into it.

Now if you look at the other side of the connector, ("side 2") in the pin hole opposite the Blue & Black wire, (the empty pin on side 2, that the Blue & Black wire pin from side 1 plugs into) you will notice that there is no wire there. There is no wire going from that pin (on side 2) to the ECU Plug.
So basically it's an open/incomplete circuit, and what we need to do is bridge the gap.

What you need to do, now that we have established what everything is, is this;

1) Cut a section of suitable wire to a size adequate enough to bridge the gap (but not too tight).

2) Plug one end of the new wire into the empty pin I talked about (on side 2), opposite the Blue & Black wire.

3) The other end of the new wire needs to connect into the signal sending pin in the ECU Plug. This connector is not shown on the diagram so I can give you no detailed reference other than memory. The signal sending pin is an empty pin that sits between a Solid Black wire and a Solid Orange wire. Plug the end of the new wire into this empty pin hole and make sure that it is contacting the pin (check that the other side of the new wire is also contacting its pin)

4) Start the engine, if the rev counter does not work immediately then check that the wires have a good contact with the pins at both ends.

5) Now that the rev-counter is tested and working, you need to make secure connections at both ends of the new wire, this is because the empty pin holes don't actually have pins in them since there are no wires connecting them, why waste connectors after all?
There are two ways of doing this, the right way, and the erm... improvised way. :wasntme:

"The Right Way" (Y)
Obtain an electrical kit with crimps and the same sized pin connectors used by Nissan in the Big White Connector, and then crimp the appropriate pin type (male or female) at both ends of the new wire.
Finally re-connect the new wire to the right pin holes that we have established, and you're done... after putting the dashboard panels back that is.

"The Improvised Way" :eek:
Twizle the exposed copper wire ends of the new wire, stuff them into the correct pin holes and stuff some bluetack, silicon, chewing gum, (anything non conductive) into the hole with the wire to hold it in place. I'm not proud of it but... I used the improvised way, 2 and a half years ago, and it's still working fine to this day. But then I’m a crazy kinda guy and only crazy people should attempt to use improvised mechanics.

Have fun kids,
Professor Porkpie. *geek*
 
#4
can you get a picture of the big white plug, i cant find mine on the drivers side....have taken both sides and bottom part of centre console off and there is nothing on drivers side

there is a white connector on the passenger side, but it has 2 plugs going into it from the clocks and 2 coming out to the ecu.
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#5
can you get a picture of the big white plug, i cant find mine on the drivers side....have taken both sides and bottom part of centre console off and there is nothing on drivers side

there is a white connector on the passenger side, but it has 2 plugs going into it from the clocks and 2 coming out to the ecu.
Unfortunately i can't put up any pictures without tracking the car down and taking it apart, which for the sake of a photo is more hasstle than it's worth. There is literally no way you can miss that big white connector, it is bolted to the floor for one thing and yes on some models it was split into two plugs but everything is the same and all the wires do the same job so there shouldn't be any problems there. What actual model is your micra? What year? Is it the Coil-Pak version? (the verry last face-lift k11).
Just look at the wires on the plug, or in your case 'plugs' and simply match up the colour sequence to the diagram, that's the only way you are going to confirm that you are looking at the right thing. The colour key is on the diagram and every wire is labelled so you shouldn't have any issues. One other thing worth mentioning is that the wires don't 'come down from the clocks' they come down from the wiring loom and only some of them go to the clocks.
 
#6
ok, i will have another go in a bit, and i will get a pic of what i think is the connector (on the passenger side) but it isnt bolted to the floor, just tucked behind the ecu mount.
and yeah, i have a haynes manual.

also, it is really hard to unplug the connectors, as the push button bit is hid under the plate bit.

stew
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#7
ok, i will have another go in a bit, and i will get a pic of what i think is the connector (on the passenger side) but it isnt bolted to the floor, just tucked behind the ecu mount. It is really hard to unplug the connectors, as the push button bit is hid under the plate bit.

stew
What are you trying to unplug? You don't need to unplug anything, i stated that in the guide... If it isn't bolted to the floor then that doesn't mean a thing, on some models they're bolted and on some they aren't, and again i've mentioned in the guide that there are small variation between models. It doen't matter which side the connector is on either, think of it like a knob; some people hang to the left and some hang to the right, but as long as it's there who gives a stuff init lad.
:laugh:
 
#8
unplugged 1 side of 1 of the connectors (the one with the free pin on the other side of a blue/black wire), black in my case not white as that one has no free pins, to make sure that the wire is going all the way through and touching the pin from the other side. so it is now definitely touching the pin on that and i am sure that it is touching the pin on the ecu, as i unplugged the big blue connector out of that, pushed the wire through making sure it didnt touch any other pin, and jack all...rev counter doesnt even move from the rest pin at the bottom, but both pins are definitely bridged by the wire.
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
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#9
Stewpotz you didnt took any pictures during the installation?

Pm sent to Porkie! I have a lot of question for him

Seb
 
#10
Right from my clocks i have 2 blue and black wires running from my rev counters. One on the wires runs into a BLACK connector. The thing that this sits on has 3 other plugs. Now for the life of me i cannot see where the ecu sending pin is. Can someone please get pictures?
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#12
I think i'd better put Seb's picture on this thread too so that it can help out others and be found more easilly.

Credit goes to Seb_ for doodling this funky diagram. (Y)

 
#13
Humm still no help as i dont have a space betwen black and ora
nge and only three pins between which re taken up by a green n white a green and green and orange between the black n orange!
 
#14
Humm still no help as i dont have a space betwen black and ora
nge and only three pins between which re taken up by a green n white a green and green and orange between the black n orange!
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#17
Yeah again i need to strees that not all micras are wired up the same way. When i did my rev counter it was on a 1993 pre-facelift L. If you have nats or airbags or a facelift then the wiring will be slightly different but you can still get it to work that way by testing the empty pins. The tacho doesn't emmit power or signals so if you plug it into the wrong pin it will do no damage, it just won't work thats all. So don't take everything for gospel as like i said not all micras are wired the same way.
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
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#18
Anybody got any hint to change the Mileage from new dials in order to match the genuine mileage of the car ?
Thanks
Seb
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
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#21
Well, I managed to set the correct KMage thanks to frank advise, and today I made a "trial fit" today just to be sure everything is working (warning, fuel gauge, KMage etc, leds)
Everything is OK except as expected, I don't have the revs, I will have to add the extra wire, I will do it later when the weather will be better.
Sometimes I wish my car had a real complete factory wiring loom... Maybe I earn a few KG without some of this extra wires...
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
#22
Bump,
since a few days, I had a problem with one LED OFF on the stock dashboard, the area where is the 0 to 50KMH was off. So I decided to definitely fit the SR clocks.

I also tried to do the wiring, but it seems more tricky than I tought, because even if I understood the guide from Porkpie, I'm still hesitating to chose which pin to put a wire on onto the ECU , and to which connector?

I took some pictures, if someone could help me and give me more details:




Thank you !

Seb
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#31
Just jam the bloody wire into the empty pin you won't know if it's right unless you try, you can't do any damage to the ecu because the wire you are connecting to it does not carry a current. It's trial and error, that's how you learn. Trust me bro you are not going to damage anything if you stick it in the wrong hole.
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
#32
Frank, I will check this week end, it's already night when I come back from work

You right Porkpie, that's the way I feel, lot of fear of connecting the wrong wire to the wrong pin and damage something. But the main problem is that I'm now ok about the blue ECU plug side, the right pin is the pin number 2; but on the other side I'm still not sure about which plug/connector to rely ? Do you remember which one? The black one or the yellow/white one ?

Anyway I will check this week end, and will try to take some shots to complete and illustrate your guide Porkpie ;)

I like to ask -too ? many questions before starting something, but I also like to share with other then by making guides :)

Cheers

Seb
 
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porkpie700

porkpie700

Buy & Sell Member
#33
Black, but as i say don't worry about connecting to the wrong wire. It will not damage anything.

Something you all might find usefull, while fitting a new gearbox to the k11 this week (the one i fitted the tachometer onto). I spotted something that i had forgotten about, since i haven't worked on it for a very... very long time; it has an extra fuse box.
My little k11 is one of the very early models that has 3 fuseboxes under the hood. The usual 2 next to the battery, and a third one on the right-hand side inner wing (where the power-steering fluid tank sits on later models).
The altinater is also different (different connectors), as is most of the engine bay wiring loom. It's a propper micra yeah!!! :laugh:
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
#34
Was (yet) talking about it with Shaun today,
the quickiest, easiest way to do it would be to run a wire from pin number 2 on the ECU, to the Rev counter pin/wire behind the dials, anyone has it? Here the back of the rev counter area:



Helloween tried to help me and told me that on it's japanese dials it was the green wire :

A little bit weird, as it looks more a ground. What he explained to me :

Hi seb, the only pic i have which ive done mine on is in the link below!!! where the green wire is its what you have to do, connect a wire to the part of your dash clocks and wire it thru the engine bay to you distributor end.... ill take a pic of my connection to the distributor, my car is currently at my mates garage for a day so when i get it back ill take a pic of it!! in the mean time i suppose you could wire the cable thru to the engine..
Cheers

Seb
 

frank

Club Member
#37
had to do mine today (97 vibe)
the loom colours were nothing like the haynes wiring diag :eek: the tacho wire in the ecu plug (pinout # 2) was white with a red stripe, and the clocks wire in the black plug was light blue (the only wire that entered the plug but did,nt exit it)

 

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frank

Club Member
#44
I'll check today, is it a hard task to undertake? And where on the pod to I wire up (sorry if thats a stupid question)?
you have to remove the kickstrip near the passenger,s right foot, and maybe the 2 x ecu bolts too
then tap into pinout #2 on the ecu wire, and join it to the wire that is missing on the black plug
 
#45
you have to remove the kickstrip near the passenger,s right foot, and maybe the 2 x ecu bolts too
then tap into pinout #2 on the ecu wire, and join it to the wire that is missing on the black plug
So the wiring for all this is on the passenger's side? Also would it all work considering my new clocks (with the tacho) are from a March and I have a micra?
 
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