k11 march help needed !!!

you can test the starter out on the floor if you use jumpleads to power it, but its easier to hotwire it on the car really (if you hotwire it you are bypassing all the wires/loom, in order to test they are at fault or not)
 
i tried hotwiring the starter there again and the starter started spinning but it didnt start the car with the ignition on, does this mean the starter is broke? also when i hot wire the starter it just keeps spinning till i disconnect the battery terminals what does that mean?
 
i tried hotwiring the starter there again and the starter started spinning but it didnt start the car with the ignition on, does this mean the starter is broke? also when i hot wire the starter it just keeps spinning till i disconnect the battery terminals what does that mean?

its hard to explain really, you need to understand how the solenoid works to throw/engage the cog and connect the 2 fat leads at the same time, and you need to experience how much "kick" a non faulty motor should give (so that you can access if its working ok)
 
ah rite thanks frank i think its a bad connection, how do u explain the starter motor spinning on its own?

if you hotwire the 1 side of the solenoid it,ll constantly spin eh, but if its doing it on either 13mm bolt then maybe a problem with the return spring, or arcing of the contacts maybe ?
 
its spins when i join a wire from battery to the starter nut and the other nut beside it,i dunno why it just stopped working, after i hot wired the starter i removed the wires i used to hot wire and i left the original positive wire on it and it just spun round really fast till i disconnected the battery,

i have a catalytic converter light on the dash which was constanly on until i joined the two wires from the sensor together i did this while i had the car off and when i went to start it, it wouldnt start.
 
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Anyone no what those relays are for? or is any of that to do with the starter/relay
 
right so i tried jumpleads again today off a diesel car and no luck, i even had someone bang on the starter while i twisted the key, i come to the conclusion that i need a new wiring loom as it would be too hard to find a burnt out wire
 
right so i tried jumpleads again today off a diesel car and no luck, i even had someone bang on the starter while i twisted the key, i come to the conclusion that i need a new wiring loom as it would be too hard to find a burnt out wire

noooo :eek: have you tried hotwiring it with the leads ? (and totally bypassing the loom) just put the + jumplead onto the 13mm nut/wire on the solenoid/starter, and the - jumplead on the engine or g/box, and then bridge the + jumplead with some thin wire onto the 10mm solenoid nut
 
Today i hot wired the starter ive used a different starter as mine had no 10mm piece so i couldnt use it to hotwire, i ran a wire to the starter from the battery with the ignition on and the car started, but then i noticed that the earth on the starter motor i think(little spade connector) didnt really fit tight

I removed it and the car cut out also if this earth isnt connected the lights all go dim and the temperature shoots up and round facing north easting and the light for the cataylitic converter lights up very very dim,

Anybody know whats wrong?
 
the starter earth is a big fat black lead that runs to 1 of the bolts that hold the starter on, on mine emmet
 
right, so the earth from the battery touches the starter using one of the bolts? i put an the earth on the starter and it made no dif
 
The earth from the battery bolts underneath the battery tray then bolts onto the starter (bolt closest the front of the engine)
 
I would test another starter, and adapt the wiring (spade connector) to a european starter, did that to my March loom because of the auto to manual conversion...
 
the problem was the original starter i had in my car it didnt have a 10mm nut on it:)

i didnt check because my multimeter is faulty, but i think thats because of the nearly flat battery in it, it mustnt be getting any power
 
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