K11 electric problem

Hello from Croatia, my name is Tomislav and i have a large electric problem on k11 1.0 1997 year. Few days ago i turned down car and pull key out and lights on dash board are still glow. When i press switch for rear glass defrost lamps went off and i leave that way. In the morning i didnt have sign of life in the car. I changed ignition switch but still nothing is changed. Battery is ok. Car is cranking but no start. Only thing that work is lights and all 4 way turn signal. Turn signal one by one dosenn work. My mehanic thinks that is a ecu problem. I think that is losse ground or someting like that because there is no sign of life on dashboard. When car sits along 10-20min a lights on dash board starts to glow but no bright only litlle sign of light. Sorry on my english but i dont know what to do and i need help.
 
What about releys, we check fuses they seems to be ok? All went wrong when i was leave rear window defrost over night because then lamps on dashboard arent glowing anymore. In the morning everything was dead. Maybe all this start because bad ignition switch but all went dead from window defrost
 
The fuse for all turn lights and the left and right turn lights are different. Indeed check all of your fuses under the dash. Do you have a battery charger?
 
Is it possible animals have chewed through the wiring somewhere? the only time I've seen anything similar to that a suspension strut had broken free and cut through the loom

On the K11 the loom is nowhere near the suspension struts, but animal damage could cause this
 
It is possible because guy from i bought it didnt drive it for a year. My mehanic check it and didnt find anything. Next week im towing car to other electric guy. Yes i have battery charger.
 

frank

Club Member
What about releys, we check fuses they seems to be ok? All went wrong when i was leave rear window defrost over night because then lamps on dashboard arent glowing anymore. In the morning everything was dead. Maybe all this start because bad ignition switch but all went dead from window defrost
mine did the same sort of thing, and it was 1 of the big fuses that looked ok but had a hairline crack, and does the battery lead have a red connector and 2 big white leads ?
 
Reley changed and now everything works but car do not start. Still litle red lamp on dashboard isnt working and engine lamp is flashing continusly. Any idea?
 

frank

Club Member
nats is very secure, members either fit another ecu kit or earlier pre-nats ecu with a few wire changes
does it start if you wet the air filter with fuel ?
 
Its start a litle bit on its own but shuts down. I cant remember when key is on frst position does lamps on dash board start to glow? At me on frst position dashboard is in dark.
 

frank

Club Member
maybe the wires on the antenna have been disturbed when changing the ign switch ?
and nats cuts the injector signals, so firing up when you wet the filter and flashing engine light does point to a nats problem
 
Is it a steady flash or is there a signal in it (like short, short, long and not short, short, short or long, long long)? If there is a signal in it field service manual will tell you. For the battery charger I noticed that you advanced quite a bit, I usually charge my battery overnight when my car won't start and I have some electrical issue. This tends to be just bought cars with pretty worn batteries that start properly but just give up quite soon.

For the non starting, did you check having spark and if so, do you have a spark plug photo? That might tell us what is missing from spark, fuel and air.
 
Battery is brand new, check engine light flashes continusly. Little red lamp by the rear heater and all4 turn lights dont flash at all. I think there is a problem and sounds to me that power dosnt come to ecu. Im towing car in electrical garage next week because i try everything and i dont know what to do enymore. Is there posibility that i when i was cleaning fuses lock him down, that he think that i want to stole him? I didnt remove battery when i was doing that. This is only thing that comes on my mind
 
I'm a little lost in your problem description but you should reconsider before deciding to tow your car and let someone else have a look at this. This can become a costly and painful process depending on the knowledge they have for your k11. If you think your ecu isn't there, your car should attempt to start.

You should make sure your ecu is coming online or not. If not, you should attempt to repair this first. From there you may expect spark and fuel. Be aware that your iginition key needs to supply battery voltage twice, once for the starter and once for the ecu.

Please explain again to me what the initial problem was and if your car started or not. I would let go the problems that are occuring for lights that come on where they shouldn't or stay off where they shouldn't. First steps are ecu online, engine attempts to start, check spark, check fuel. If that is all there your car should atleast attempt to burn some fuel noticably.
 
This little lamp dont work. Before this it was working. It have spark because car starts and die after 1sec. Check engine light flashes all the time
 

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Okay, but that is not the whole story I am after. That this light doesn't work is a part of the problem description. You have replaced ignition switch and you tell me car starts but dies so I can imagine you aren't too happy about this because this seems a hard problem to tackle.

You need to check first things first. Glowing lights could be a real bad mass but it also could be a wiring problem. I think it is best to start excluding possible causes.

At your battery there are two connectors. One goes to the ecu and the other to your interrior lights and switches. Here was mine where my ecu was still getting a bit of voltage but wouldn't come online. Since your car seems to try to start I'm afraid the ecu is online but you must make this surer then sure.

b13-plus-pool-connector.png


There might be corrosion inside this plug.

Next important things are battery mass and engine ground. Battey mass, please disconnect that cable and sand to the metal.

b13-massa-van-accu-naar-chassis.png


I've used a power tool and this is a junkyard car so this is a bit over the top but make the metal visible and ground.

For engine mass, I'm not sure where those are but I expect that you can find them on the throttle body. If you don't have the k11 field service manual, you need to get it because it will tell you where masses are with a drawing.

If that is all good, I expect that you will have a green relay on top of your ecu, that is the ecu relay, when you put car key in on position it should click. There can be more clicking noises, make sure it clicks by putting your hand on it.

From here it is to be expected that it should work, I'm afraid it will not but with field service manual or an ecu layout it is possible to check for voltage on ecu pins but I think there are some other steps that can be taken from here.

Please start with the above. Then remove one of the two connectors from the plus side of the battery and see if it is the ecu or not. If you are sure it is the ecu connector, reconnect it and remove the other one. Then please take your time and give a thorough problem description.
 

frank

Club Member
engine light flashing and firing up when you wet the air filter are classic nats symptoms (there are many threads on here)
the garage will probably check the injector signal with a noid light to confirm it
 
first part of problem was in relay in fuses box. That was fixed. But before i realised that i was puling fuses by the engine but i didnt disconect battery and this **** happens. After that check engine start flashing. People here tell me that ecu lock it self because it thinks that i want to stole car when ecu suddenly lost power. Second problem is that nobody have adapter 14pin to 16 pin obd. I think that diagnostic will show something.
 

frank

Club Member
is this dont work
many members have tried that type, you probably need to change baud rate/pinouts/firmware etc to get one to work
 
We have computer guys wich remove code from ecu. This cost up to 200 euros but there is no problem anymore. Lucky, today i found a guy 10 km from my place and he have profi diagnostic tool even for my micra. Tomorow i towing car to him and we will see what he can find.
 
Oh Joy, you have a working NATS there? I've deconstructed several Nissan's most of them with the NATS sticker on the window but no nats no nothing.

Has your problem description changed after what you did?
 
Yes, mehanic said that is ecu lock it self because i pull fuses and it lost power. He put new code and it runs. This cost me 200 euros. From today car is on sale.
 
Hi, another problem. Last night i left fan switch on and in the morning battery was dead. Any idea?
If it's completely flat the only way to charge it again is to bring it inside and hook it up to a 12v charger, cold batteries can explode while charging so take care and follow the instructions that come with the charger

In an emergency you could try to use jump leads and once it starts let it charge on the alternator, however this will wear out your alternator very quickly and that isn't a cheap part to replace
 
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