last one i did (ashley sw) i just pulled the g/box to the nearside as far as it would go (everything still attached)
and changed the clutch in the gap between the engine and box (twas surprisingly easy )
Thanks Frank, I am changing discs and pads aswell, and I am having a hell of a time gettingthe ball joint nut off, its nearly off but really solid, I think I am going to have to saw or grind it off, I don't suppose you know what thread it is do you so I can get another one ?
i know the thread it is a byatch thread thats what it is unless you clean it heavy squeeky clean the nut dont come of,(and tight the nut back down to clean again at the first slight sign it stiks),,, i done the large hack saw on it -----driveshaft out gives the correct access
to undo the balljoint nut i'd remove the driveshaft nut,
disconnect the hub from strut,
full left lock to unhook the left driveshaft or full right lock to unhook the right shaft,
reattach the hub to strut with bolts but no need for nuts,
really clean n oil the rusty balljoint nut much as possible,
jack up from underneath the balljoint to lock the balljoint shaft into the hub using the cars weight to prevent it simply spinning,
gently loosen the nut with preferably a 6-side socket & breaker bar.
whenever it starts to stiffen, back off, clean n re-oil brefore trying again.
then seperate the balljoint. don't use them wedge tool that u hammer in cos they wreck the rubber boots unless ur gonna bin the arm anyway.
Yes. i did fool myself. -.-
It took me 2 days.
trying to put it back on was a pain in the rear. I didn't loose the engine mount in the middle and in the end it must have prevented the gearbox from being able to put straight back on. (engine was twisted a little bit)
figuring it out wasn't easy.