hi, i have done a quick search on this and its prob been covered before but could someone please confirm that a k10 g/box is the same as, and therefore will fit straight onto, a cg10. i have bought a k11, needs a new box but i can get free k10 parts. think i may have a k10 5speed knockin about somewhere also. cheers ne
k10 box on cg10
- Thread starter nef1000
- Start date
ok just bringing this thread back so that if anyone needs/wants to put a k10 box on a k11 they will know the problems that will be encountered.
firstly you should know that a k10 box WILL fit a cg10 (mines a 1995 pre facelift) quite easily
problems.
1. the top three bolts thru the box into the block are bigger diameter so you need to bore the holes in the box out slightly
2. the gear selector lever that attaches to the shaft on the box is turned 90 degrees on k11's so you need to grind the knuckle off and re weld it accordingly to fit the shaft on the k10 box. this doesn't have to be exact however if you don't get it exactly right you end up with 1st + 2nd where 3rd + 4th should be etc ( my 5th gear is slightly too near my left leg now!)
3. you need to put a k11 starter motor back on as there is an extra wire from the loom to the solenoid.
4. you need to use k10 g/box mount and rear mount but these are a straight swap. (the diff casing is narrower on a k10 whereas k11 are flush with bellhousing so the k11 mount wont reach to the k10 diff)
other than that everythin else is straight swap (ie the small sump to box braces, clutch/flywheel, driveshafts etc.)
also please do not reply with 'why fit a k10 box to a k11.' As said above i had a spare box lying around and this was a money saving experiment.
also i do not accept any responsibility for anyone getting this wrong. as far as im aware post facelift driveshafts and possibly 1.3 are different to 1.0l ones. frank is your man to confirm this tho.
cheers ne
firstly you should know that a k10 box WILL fit a cg10 (mines a 1995 pre facelift) quite easily
problems.
1. the top three bolts thru the box into the block are bigger diameter so you need to bore the holes in the box out slightly
2. the gear selector lever that attaches to the shaft on the box is turned 90 degrees on k11's so you need to grind the knuckle off and re weld it accordingly to fit the shaft on the k10 box. this doesn't have to be exact however if you don't get it exactly right you end up with 1st + 2nd where 3rd + 4th should be etc ( my 5th gear is slightly too near my left leg now!)
3. you need to put a k11 starter motor back on as there is an extra wire from the loom to the solenoid.
4. you need to use k10 g/box mount and rear mount but these are a straight swap. (the diff casing is narrower on a k10 whereas k11 are flush with bellhousing so the k11 mount wont reach to the k10 diff)
other than that everythin else is straight swap (ie the small sump to box braces, clutch/flywheel, driveshafts etc.)
also please do not reply with 'why fit a k10 box to a k11.' As said above i had a spare box lying around and this was a money saving experiment.
also i do not accept any responsibility for anyone getting this wrong. as far as im aware post facelift driveshafts and possibly 1.3 are different to 1.0l ones. frank is your man to confirm this tho.
cheers ne
frank. its hard to explain but the only way was to cut and weld the lever. its like a universal joint on a steering rack isnt it. kind of shaped like a 'c'. this meets another 'c' shape on the box. the oppsoing 'c' shapes fit inside each other and the bolt goes thru. however the k10/k11 combo means that the two 'c's are facing the same way and until you cut the lever and turn it 90 they wont mesh.
ne
ne
ah i see what you mean. well my 'c' thingys are not removable. the 'c' on the gear change lever under the car body is welded to the shaft and then the knuckle is kinda riveted into the 'c'. i suppose if you open the box the g/box 'c' maybe turnable but i just found it easiest to cut the shaft and turn it 90. i find it so hard to explain stuff in writing - apologies. i would take photos if i knew more about comps and uploading!
ive just re read your post and i see you mean the little input shaft on the g/box. i didnt even think to pull back the gaitor and see if the shaft could be changed. it was 20 mins before wales kick off the other night and i just wanted to get it done so moved the exhaust heatshield, dropped the whole arm from under the arm, cut it and stuck it back together. it works ok and means you dont have to chance stuffing the box.
ne
ive just re read your post and i see you mean the little input shaft on the g/box. i didnt even think to pull back the gaitor and see if the shaft could be changed. it was 20 mins before wales kick off the other night and i just wanted to get it done so moved the exhaust heatshield, dropped the whole arm from under the arm, cut it and stuck it back together. it works ok and means you dont have to chance stuffing the box.
ne
i will have a look if there is a pin next time im under the car. there doesnt seem to be a shortage of k10s in yards round ere. unfortunately they sit untouched for a while then get crushed. there is two with auto boxes on in my local at the mo. if anyone for any reason would want one of these let me know. wouldnt know how to check if they were any good tho as i never worked on anythin auto!
ne
ne
