immobilizer questions

Hello guys!
Recently i got a battery replacement on my 1997 1.0 16V micra and the car wont start. The engine check lamp is flashing and i noticed that the red light above the radio has stopped flashing( I suppose thats the nats immobilizer), also the two buttons next to it arent working (hazard lights and windshield warm). I checked all the fuses in the car and they are fine. What could have happened and is there a way to bypass the immobilizer or reprogram the key. The car doesnt have central lock and the key has a small red chip.
Thanks in advance!
 
Hello guys!
Recently i got a battery replacement on my 1997 1.0 16V micra and the car wont start. The engine check lamp is flashing and i noticed that the red light above the radio has stopped flashing( I suppose thats the nats immobilizer), also the two buttons next to it arent working (hazard lights and windshield warm). I checked all the fuses in the car and they are fine. What could have happened and is there a way to bypass the immobilizer or reprogram the key. The car doesnt have central lock and the key has a small red chip.
Thanks in advance!
Is the red led on constant when the ignition is on?,
Tried disconnecting the batter for a hour and putting back on?


Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
OP
OP
I

idk

The LED above the radio isn't functional, it flashes all the time as a theft deterrent and goes out when the key is turned in the ignition so it can't be used to tell if you have an immobiliser problem or diagnose any issue.

The immobiliser is inside the ECU in this car, there is a light on the side of the ECU that flashes out codes, this same flashing is repeated with the check engine light once you enter diagnostics mode.

The colour of chip in your key determines what version of NATS you have in the car, they are passive chips (no battery in the key) which are energised and read by a collar in the ignition barrel.


If you have no lights at all within the car and the headlights/demister/etc don't work, nothing at all works then the highest possibility is the battery is connected wrong. Either the + and - are mixed up, sometimes new batteries have plastic caps to protect the terminal and these get left on when the battery is replaced. If no fuses have blown there could be a bad ground but this is unlikely as there are many grounds. The new battery could have sat on a shelf for too long and discharged completely, or it could be a bad battery from the factory? If you have a volt meter you could test the battery you should ideally see more than 11.9 volts although 12.3 to 12.6 is better.
 
OP
OP
I

idk

The LED above the radio isn't functional, it flashes all the time as a theft deterrent and goes out when the key is turned in the ignition so it can't be used to tell if you have an immobiliser problem or diagnose any issue.

The immobiliser is inside the ECU in this car, there is a light on the side of the ECU that flashes out codes, this same flashing is repeated with the check engine light once you enter diagnostics mode.

The colour of chip in your key determines what version of NATS you have in the car, they are passive chips (no battery in the key) which are energised and read by a collar in the ignition barrel.


If you have no lights at all within the car and the headlights/demister/etc don't work, nothing at all works then the highest possibility is the battery is connected wrong. Either the + and - are mixed up, sometimes new batteries have plastic caps to protect the terminal and these get left on when the battery is replaced. If no fuses have blown there could be a bad ground but this is unlikely as there are many grounds. The new battery could have sat on a shelf for too long and discharged completely, or it could be a bad battery from the factory? If you have a volt meter you could test the battery you should ideally see more than 11.9 volts although 12.3 to 12.6 is better.


I have checked the battery with multimeter and its 12.6V. The headlights, blinkers and stuff is working in the car. Only the two buttons next to to the immobilizer light, that are hazard light and the windshield warm are not working. I have tried starting the car with both keys and the result is still the same. It feels like it starts for a split second then the engine turns off and the check engine light is blinking all the time.
 

frank

Club Member
It feels like it starts for a split second then the engine turns off and the check engine light is blinking all the time.
thats usually a nats problem, does it run for longer with a drop of fuel down the throttlebody ?
 
definitely sounds like NATS if it's cutting out, with fuel blockage issues it will usually idle if nothing else

The problem with the 2 buttons that are not working, those are above the ECU. It could possibly be that water has got in there. The water is a common issue it drops down through the holes in the firewall through the heater matrix - is any of the carpet or sound-insulation wet?

Do you know how to get codes through bridgeing pins?
 
The LED above the radio isn't functional, it flashes all the time as a theft deterrent and goes out when the key is turned in the ignition so it can't be used to tell if you have an immobiliser problem or diagnose any issue.

The immobiliser is inside the ECU in this car, there is a light on the side of the ECU that flashes out codes, this same flashing is repeated with the check engine light once you enter diagnostics mode.
The led is functional and does indicate Nats status. Its not switched with the ignition but with the nats status. Like detected a good chip or not.
 
The led is functional and does indicate Nats status. Its not switched with the ignition but with the nats status. Like detected a good chip or not.
Yep
Flashes when the key isn't in to chow it's function
Goes out to tell it's off when the key in and everything is fine,

Then if it's on solid with the key in there's a issues from ECU, chip, key ect,

Easy way to tell is bit of petrol or easy start of somthing into the throttle body and see if it starts , if it does
Then it's a nats or fueling (had one that I had to manually suck the fuel to the fuel rail for it to work again)

If it doesn't start check the dizzy cap and rotor are ok, they do corrode and may want cleaning out

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Have a look in engine bay by battery front left when facing car you will see black box of relays and fuses sometimes there is a poor connection from cables going in to box ( could have been disturbed when changing battery)
 
OP
OP
I

idk

Thank you all for the help guys i finally slove it. Looks like the antenna that reads the chip in the key has gone too weak. So i tried putting the spare key next to it and starting the car with the other key and it worked. The engine lamps stopped flashing and the car started.
 
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