Im New Please Help!! K10 Starting Problem

Hi all.

I bought a k10 last week of ebay and went to collect it. All was fine bar a flat battery, jumped it off and it ran fine.

Got it home and parked it up. Couple of days later went to move it and it started fine. I do think a new battery is needed though.

Im using the car to compete in autotesting, so i started to strip the car out. All im left with now is the drivers seat, steering wheel and dials which i have reattached to the back of the steering column. While i was removing the dashboard i cut some unceccesarry wires (radio, heater controls etc) Once finished stripping out the car started and ran absolutely fine.

But today, a few days later i went to start the car and i would turn over but it wouldnt fire. Im not that experienced with cars but i know a little bit. I bought some brand new spark plugs and changed them, i also put a fivers worth of petrol in the tank and sprayed a little bit of easy start into the carb. The car will still not start.

Does anyone know what it could be? How can it run fine one day then a couple of days later not start?

There is an identical k10 in a scrap yard near me with the engine in so i am able to get replacement bits if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks very much

Sam
 
Do you have a battery tester?
Was it a cold morning?
When the car is turning over does the starter motor sounds as if it's slowing down?

I've recently have had starting problems, and found that the Battery was holding 1/2 the CCA than it should. Reconditioned it and Fully Charged using a RSC16 and it now has nearly 400CC where it should be 330CCA and it's been fine since.
 
Do you have a battery tester?
Was it a cold morning?
When the car is turning over does the starter motor sounds as if it's slowing down?

I've recently have had starting problems, and found that the Battery was holding 1/2 the CCA than it should. Reconditioned it and Fully Charged using a RSC16 and it now has nearly 400CC where it should be 330CCA and it's been fine since.

well when ive been trying to start it iv had it connected to my peugeot 306 hdi with the jump leads and that has quite a big battery
 
hi sam

if it wont even fire with easystart, you may have lost the spark, has it got points ?

im not sure. It has a dsistributor cap and then a cylindrical unit on the wing whic connects to the centre of the distributor cap.

sorry im really a noobie on petrols!
 
yeh sam, thats the coil, 12v on the + side and the other - side is earthed by the points or transistor inside the distributor cap
 
sam

you need to check for a spark first really, then pinpoint the fault (if there,s no spark)

ok. thanks very much for your help by the way.

So if i take a spark plug out and see if it sparks when i try and turn the car on.

If there is no spark then there could be a problem with the coil or the distributor cap?

If there is a spark does that mean it could be something to do with the carb?

I think i might just pop down the scrap yard and get as many bits as possible while its still there. will probably be a tin can next week!
 
sam

yeh, try a plug (earthed to the block) to check for a spark eh
if not, check for a 12v feed to the coil (ignition on)
if ok, you can test the coil with a plug lead shoved in and flick an earth wire across the minus side of the coil
if there,s a spark, it would point to a dizzy fault
 
When earthing the spark plug to the block hold it with something insulated like pliers, don't earth it near the spark plug hole, it might light up the mixture and remove your eyebrows :p
 
well when ive been trying to start it iv had it connected to my peugeot 306 hdi with the jump leads and that has quite a big battery


Well I had my micra conncted to a 2.0 litre petrol Focus with jump leads and it just managed to start after 10-15 minutes, it's because the battery was that Bad, and the battery is less than a year old.
 
Hi everyone. Changed coil today and she started like a dream

thanks everyone for your help

Another problem now though....when first started it ticks over nicely. however when it warms up the revs drop and it nearly cuts out because its not ticking over fast enough. Is this a carb problem or can it be solved by adjusting the thottle cable

thanks
 
Have a look at this photo

P1010004-1.jpg


Idle speed screw.
It's the small Philips/cross-head screw.
When your Car has warmed up and your car starts to stall then adjust this Screw slightly until the required tick over is made.

Tamper proof Idle speed and Fuel mixture Screw (the one with the slot in)
This is set at the build process for emissions and can only be adjusted by using a special tool which is a flat blade screwdriver the same size as the slot with a V cut into the end. Looks like this> M )

Before you start messing around with all that disconnect the 2 Grey or White plugs that go to the Carburettor otherwise the Idle compensator box under the seat will kick in and frustrate the proceedings.

Disconnect the Fan (Connector just below Passenger Headlight)

Check all of the rubber pipes connected in and around the carburettor for splits which cause air leaks and bad running.

Adjust the Throttle cable but not as to pull or move the Throttle linkage on the Carburettor.

Check Air filter

Check Idle Compensator device in Air Box, Heat it with a Hairdryer - does it move at all?

After setting the idle connect all the electrics back up again.

Hope that helps :)
 
the rumbling sounds a lot like what I had with mine recently.

Just needed a points and condenser change.

Apparently need regular replacement (6k mi or so) so this could be at the root of your problems if everything points to dizzy.

Bit fiddly to do yourself and ignition timing will need to be readjusted, then readjusted again 500mi or so later as it wears in.

Little mechanics garages should do it all for £20-30. Thats what mine cost.

H
 
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