Idle Rev?

Hi All,

Newbei here.
My IDLE rev is 760, and the car is a little bit shaking during idle. Is it low?
1.4 Motor

Thanks and Regards;
Serkan
Screenshot_20200107-102728_Torque.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi All,

Newbei here.
My IDLE rev is 760, and the car is a little bit shaking during idle. Is it low?
1.4 Motor

Thanks and Regards;
Serkan
View attachment 66833
Hello Serkan,

I also have a 1.4 (K11 2002), newly acquired, with a similar shaking at idle (not sure of the revs though as I don't have access to diagnostic software). I've been doing a little research and it is pointing towards either the alternator or the Maf for me (a common issue apparently). Have you checked these over?
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Hello Serkan,

I also have a 1.4 (K11 2002), newly acquired, with a similar shaking at idle (not sure of the revs though as I don't have access to diagnostic software). I've been doing a little research and it is pointing towards either the alternator or the Maf for me (a common issue apparently). Have you checked these over?
Hi MrFahrenheit,
Thank you for your answer.
Sometimes when i just start accelerating the car shakes a little too. It may seem MAF as google.
How can i check them?
I bought this device (see picture) today, can i check alternator?
How about maf?
955A4447-6362-4EE9-8662-5C15B9BB4882.jpeg
 
Hi MrFahrenheit,
Thank you for your answer.
Sometimes when i just start accelerating the car shakes a little too. It may seem MAF as google.
How can i check them?
I bought this device (see picture) today, can i check alternator?
How about maf?
View attachment 66835
Hi Serkan,

I haven't started work on mine yet, will be doing so next week. It also vibrates/overfuels at idle, however I have a service kit (plugs/fuel filter/air filter, etc) which I shall be fitting beforehand as it doesn't look like it's been done in a while.

For a basic alternator check use a multimeter or voltmeter set at v dc, check battery when engine not running (should be 12-13v). Start engine and let it settle, check again and should be 13.5-14.5v. Turn all lights, heater, rear demister on and check again. Should be around 11-12.5v.

For the Maf remove and clean in methylated spirits, and only methylated spirits as anything else will damage it, and refit. I shall also be doing this to the throttle position sensor too.

Let me know how you get on, I will do the same.
 
Bad MAF is a common fault on coilpack Micras.

Please if you do decide to replace the MAF, DO NOT BUY an eBay replacement. These a ####ty quality made in China and aren't Bosch, and they simply fail after a few days.
If you do change the MAF, get a second hand one from a low mileage Micra.
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Bad MAF is a common fault on coilpack Micras.

Please if you do decide to replace the MAF, DO NOT BUY an eBay replacement. These a ####ty quality made in China and aren't Bosch, and they simply fail after a few days.
If you do change the MAF, get a second hand one from a low mileage Micra.
Can I use a MAF from 1.0 or 1.3?
 
Can I use a MAF from 1.0 or 1.3?
I think coilpack Micra MAF's are different to dizzy Micra MAF's.
So you would need to be looking out for a MAF from a 1.0 or 1.4, provided they're post 2000, i.e coilpack models, since yours is a 1.4 so must be a coilpack model.
 
If you remove/decide to clean the maf you'll need a ts25 '5 point' security bit. I stress 5 point as they are commonly 6 point. For the tps it's a t20 hex (allen) bit. These are as fitted to mine, which looked to be original.
 
I've been working through my engine and sensors, now have a much better running car at idle, with no roughness and very little vibration.
So I'll talk you through what I did.

Changed air filter - no difference
Changed spark plugs - no difference
Checked injector resistance (ok) - no difference
Removed and checked tps (ok) - no difference
Removed maf and cleaned sensor in methylated spirits - no difference
Removed iacv (positioned at rear of throttle body), this was fouled with carbon and the 'valve' was sticky. Soaked this in methylated spirits and agitated it, removed even more carbon, checked that the valve operated freely before refitting. Refitted it then started the engine. After a little hesitancy at idle it cleared itself and has been running smoothly since then; idles well, no more vibration and feeling of cutting out, also not overfuelling at idle. If you haven't already I would suggest removing and cleaning this before focussing (and spending money) on a new maf.
 
OP
OP
Acoris
I've been working through my engine and sensors, now have a much better running car at idle, with no roughness and very little vibration.
So I'll talk you through what I did.

Changed air filter - no difference
Changed spark plugs - no difference
Checked injector resistance (ok) - no difference
Removed and checked tps (ok) - no difference
Removed maf and cleaned sensor in methylated spirits - no difference
Removed iacv (positioned at rear of throttle body), this was fouled with carbon and the 'valve' was sticky. Soaked this in methylated spirits and agitated it, removed even more carbon, checked that the valve operated freely before refitting. Refitted it then started the engine. After a little hesitancy at idle it cleared itself and has been running smoothly since then; idles well, no more vibration and feeling of cutting out, also not overfuelling at idle. If you haven't already I would suggest removing and cleaning this before focussing (and spending money) on a new maf.
Thanks for the detailed explaniation.
Do you have any pic regarding iacv‘s location?
 
Thanks for the detailed explaniation.
Do you have any pic regarding iacv‘s location?
Unfortunately not, I'm not really one for pics.
It's at the rear of the throttle body, between it and the bulkhead. Best way to get at it is to remove the airbox and you'll see the 3 connector plugs on the throttle body; 2 on the side for the map and tps, and 1 at the rear for the iacv. Unplug this, then locate the 2 hex (allen) head bolts that hold it in place. You'll struggle with a standard size bit (even 1/4" drive) and definitely with an allen key. I used a hex bit and small ratchet spanner (not sure of the size). There was also an air pipe/clip that restricted access for me which I disconnected temporarily. The iacv then came away easily (mind there are seals of which replacement is recommended). Then cleaned it up and re-installed.
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Unfortunately not, I'm not really one for pics.
It's at the rear of the throttle body, between it and the bulkhead. Best way to get at it is to remove the airbox and you'll see the 3 connector plugs on the throttle body; 2 on the side for the map and tps, and 1 at the rear for the iacv. Unplug this, then locate the 2 hex (allen) head bolts that hold it in place. You'll struggle with a standard size bit (even 1/4" drive) and definitely with an allen key. I used a hex bit and small ratchet spanner (not sure of the size). There was also an air pipe/clip that restricted access for me which I disconnected temporarily. The iacv then came away easily (mind there are seals of which replacement is recommended). Then cleaned it up and re-installed.
Is it one of these?
 

Attachments

The maf is the one with 5 wires as frank has pointed out, the component to the left of that is the tps. In the top of your picture, with the word 'bosch' written on it, is the iacv. You can just make out one of the allen bolts that hold it in place.
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Thanks for the answers.
So basically it would be good for me to remove all of them and clean with Carb cleaner right? also I can spray the carb cleaner from top of throttle body right?
 
If you remove them I would suggest ONLY using methylated spirits on the components, as I have already mentioned. I did a bit of prior research and was informed the solvents within carb cleaner are not good for the sensitive electrics within the maf and tps. I used methylated spirits only and had no issues when I refitted them. If you use carb cleaner there is the potential for damaging sensitive components that may have nothing wrong with them, creating an unecessary expense. Go easy and treat them gently, these are fairly delicate components.
 
The black 'mesh' will come out, it's held in by a metal spring clip, although there is another metal mesh underneath which doesn't come off, so it's upto you how you do it. Just remember to take your maf, tps and iacv off first.
One more question:
Will i spray the throttle body cleaner to the black area ? Or should i remove (if removeable) the black part first?
 
OP
OP
Acoris
I did cleaning except the maf. As you wrote (and i missed that i need a diff head).
I also think i found the missing hose connection.
A3713550-74E4-4AC9-9E6A-1DCD28D1B729.jpeg
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Update : Cold rev seems higher now and cars idle seems much better. BUT, my steering wheel still shakes and make sound during Warm idle. May it be some other reason? @frank ?
 

frank

Club Member
Update : Cold rev seems higher now and cars idle seems much better. BUT, my steering wheel still shakes and make sound during Warm idle. May it be some other reason? @frank ?
dunno without seeing it in person tbh mate, it should idle at about 1000 cold and 700 hot
 
OP
OP
Acoris
It idles at +1000 and 760 hot.
I'm wondering maybe the IDLE is ok, but there is something wrong with Steering wheel servo or something?
 
I did cleaning except the maf. As you wrote (and i missed that i need a diff head).
I also think i found the missing hose connection. View attachment 67326
That hose doesnt go there. Both should be open. The hose is the gearbox breather. And that canister is the carbon canister and that plug is the vent. So just leave both open. They where like they should.
 
OP
OP
Acoris
Oh
That hose doesnt go there. Both should be open. The hose is the gearbox breather. And that canister is the carbon canister and that plug is the vent. So just leave both open. They where like they should.
oh god! I will disconnect it first thing.
 
That is the camshaft positioning sensor. And the seal is prolly shot. You can use some liquid gasket to reseal it.
 
No its not loose and it will leak a small bit of oil. Doesnt really need sealing as its not much oil thats spilling out. And no it most likely wont cause your issues
 
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