Idle adjustment

E

ELA

Does anyone have a picture of the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body for a 1.0l non-coilpack K11. I just need to make a slight adjustment as it is 400rpm above what it should be
 
this one dude :)

idle.jpg
 
ELA said:
Does anyone have a picture of the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body for a 1.0l non-coilpack K11. I just need to make a slight adjustment as it is 400rpm above what it should be
Click to expand...

when cold or warm?

normally it should fast idle at 1300-1400rpm when cold and as the temp gauge rises to middle, the idle should also gradually lower down to 750rpm when fully warmed up.

if it doesn't fast idle when cold and slows down when warm, it could be a sign of an old seized waxstat fast idle mechanism and/or dirty or seized Idle Air Control Valve.

the waxstat is at the rear corner of the TB. coolant runs through it.
when its cold (or permenantly seized), it allows the sprung mechanism to push the throttle slightly open to speed up idle.
when its warm, it expands against the sprung mechanism to allow the throttle to fully shut and slow the idle down.

the electronic IACV at the front of the TB does pretty much the same job.
when the ecu see's the coolant is cold, it opens up the IACV to speed up idle.
when its warm, it closes the IACV up.

the later facelift bosch TB removed the old waxstat prob cos they tended to seize and so let the IACV do the job.

my usual remedy for the old preface TB is to
remove the sprung waxstat mechanism (allowing the throttle to fully close),
adjust the TPS to read 0.52ohm when the throttles fully closed,
clean n free up the IACV(maybe also recalibrate it if possible),
fully warm the engine,
then adjust the idle bleed screw to 750rpm warm idle.
once fully cooled down, start her up n check it cold fast idles and then returns to 750rpm when warm.

wrote a guide here
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256
 
Wow pollyp, my warm high idle was self induced as I advanced the ign timing recently to benefit from higher octane fuel. I have just adjusted the screw and it now idles as it should when warm. I will have to check in the morning to see if the cold idle is still ok. Non the less, many thanks for the guide. I have just bought a new throttle assembly from SirChris (GA15) so I'll see how I get on with that when it arrives.
 
ELA said:
Wow pollyp, my warm high idle was self induced as I advanced the ign timing recently to benefit from higher octane fuel. I have just adjusted the screw and it now idles as it should when warm. I will have to check in the morning to see if the cold idle is still ok. Non the less, many thanks for the guide. I have just bought a new throttle assembly from SirChris (GA15) so I'll see how I get on with that when it arrives.
Click to expand...

;)
indeed when you adjust the dizzy, it affects the idle speed which'll affect the timing reading.
so whenever you move the dizzy, you have to readjust the idle back to 750rpm before reading the timing gun.
 
As I set it to 19degrees and the idle shot up, are you saying that now I have adjusted the idle back down, that the ign timing would have to be checked again?
 
ELA said:
As I set it to 19degrees and the idle shot up, are you saying that now I have adjusted the idle back down, that the ign timing would have to be checked again?
Click to expand...
yes, the spark advances quickly, and 19 deg @ 1200 will = about 10 deg @ 750 iirc
 
Frank whilst you are there, could you please tell me the benefit of fitting a Frankspeed manifold. Someone suggested one to me and I'd like to know a little more about it?
 
I have just fitted one of these JDM GA15 TB and I now don't seem to be able to reduce the warm idle speed below around 950rpm (idle screw fully wound to min position). Is there another trick to bring the idle down (adjust butterfly valve???)
561591_10151455979186054_811603729_n.jpg

557645_10151455979216054_2000250430_n.jpg
 
frank said:
worth a try eh :) 8mm nut and tiny allen key iirc
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking Frank; bottom centre of the first of 2 pics I just posted. If I adjust the idle throttle stop it should limit the airflow enough to bring it back to 750rpm or so...
 
ELA said:
That's what I was thinking Frank; bottom centre of the first of 2 pics I just posted. If I adjust the idle throttle stop it should limit the airflow enough to bring it back to 750rpm or so...
Click to expand...
aye, this one arrowed eh, i adjusted my SR20 t/b via that screw, i dont run an idle control valve on mine (the ecu keeps it at bang on 750 via ignition timing within 10 secs of startup)

ga15tb.jpg
 
That's the one Frank. I'll leave the idle control valve as std and just adjust the idle stop that you have highlighted above and see how I get on.
 
ELA said:
That's the one Frank. I'll leave the idle control valve as std and just adjust the idle stop that you have highlighted above and see how I get on.
Click to expand...
ok mate :) i find that the "antistall" idle control leaves a lot to be desired personally, i coast a lot and the damn idle tended to be all over the place on mine, i dont have aircon or p/s tho, so the ecu does a surprisingly good job without the i/c/v :)
 
R-REG-SR said:
would you do that with the waxstat still their?
Click to expand...

I have now adjusted this throttle stop and there are no adverse effects at all. The waxstat has been left alone and the car now idles at the correct rpm when hot and cold. I didn't really notice any power increase though between the GA15 throttle and the Ebb style, 'butterfly valve axle grind', that I had previously fitted. I would really like to try a set of 1.3l cams next though to see if that makes any difference.
 
with research on the GA15 throttlebody, i was nearly enough to purchase a new one, but was told by many sources that you wouldnt realy notice anything, maybe if it s standard engine etc, IF maybe haveing a 1.3 with induction kit, janspeed 4 branch manifold etc it may make a difference, if someone there can elighten me on this about the GA15 TB with said performance parts and would it make a difference?

cheers

J
 
frank said:
aye, this one arrowed eh, i adjusted my SR20 t/b via that screw, i dont run an idle control valve on mine (the ecu keeps it at bang on 750 via ignition timing within 10 secs of startup)
Click to expand...

How do you do this Frank? Just disconnect it or remove it and block the air passages?
 
ELA said:
I have now adjusted this throttle stop and there are no adverse effects at all. The waxstat has been left alone and the car now idles at the correct rpm when hot and cold. I didn't really notice any power increase though between the GA15 throttle and the Ebb style, 'butterfly valve axle grind', that I had previously fitted. I would really like to try a set of 1.3l cams next though to see if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...


1.3 cams is a very nice little mod IMO
 
Sorry to hack this thread.

I am going to see my uncle or my mate soon. They are professional mechanics. I need the advice so I can double check with you guys before I go and see my uncle or my mate soon.

How can I set up this idle value properly? And base idle too.

Cheers jk
 
Hey group, my k11 '93 CVT transmission is making some wired Idle.

Well starts normal cold or warm.
But when I'm switching from P to D is increasing the RPM also in driving when I'm stopping to a trafic light stays very high RPM. But if i switch off the engine and start it again RPM is normal.

Not to long time ago i change the throttle body and battery was disconnected both terminals so maybe need yo rerlearn idle? Or is something with the N-CVT transmission? Can someone advies me please 🥺
 

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