I think its the MAF?

Hi,

Soz long post, but please hang in there....

Only just started reading about this today as the wifes L93 1.3 auto K11 has started playing up again over the weekend and it becoming a right pain in the harris ( car, not the wife for once :wasntme: )

When she first got it a year ago it would sometimes die ( slowly ) when idling. No biggy, after a few months the problem dissapeared. put it down to one of those things. Apart from that drove fine. The mrs was always saying it was uneconomical but I put that down to her feet.

This weekend the car starts dying off again. Thought that as the tank was near dry crap had got in there and was causing the issue. After a tankfull drove fine for most of the night then started dying, jerking again. Following day, fine. Today awful. Always starts straight up after cutting out and I can use the pedal to keep the revs higher if required whilst idling.

Today after alot of googling, I now believe this might be the mass air flow sensor? I see the 'how to repair the dry solder' info and will try that. Just a few confirmations please if poss. My unit is the built 1992 to 2000 made by Jecs version? Is there different versions or sizes for 1.0 ,1.3 and auto? I take it mine is integrated although ebay seems to suggest it is seperate to the throttle body and replacable during that production run? ( I sound like I know what Im on about here BTW :doh: ) How difficult would it be to replace the throttle body if required? does it have gaskets? ( I've done motorcycle carb strips so not 100% hopeless ). When I put the cover for the dry joint case back on is it wise to use halfords sillicone sealant as it doesnt specifically say 'automotive'.

Do that many dry joint cases really happen? I dont for now suspect the fuel filter is clogged by the car running on 5 pence's worth of petrol left in the tank.

Sorry for the long post...

Thanks guys!
 
its often just a plastic gasket amyallen, so a smear of sealant will suffice, and any silicon sealer for the cover.
and its probably hairline cracks that are caused rather than dry joints imo, the t/b has to endure a lot of vibration bolted directly to the engine (whereas most t/b,s are upstream in the induction piping and isolated from vibration eh)
 
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