How to: Remove Speakers on a K11 S


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How to: Remove Speakers on a K11 S + Radio removal/Install

Having had a bit of trouble finding a thread with lots of images on it, i thought about doing it myself. so here goes. After a lot of finger fettling and gentle tugging ;) i managed it :) Just pics, with some notes:

first things first. get the top part of door armrest off along with the door latch surround. these pop off fairly easily:

This is how it sits - you can see the metal clips on either end. These pull up with gentle but firm pulling power :)

Undo the two screws you can see just where the handle trough is (yes, trough. cant think of a better name for it).

next is the window winder. This is fiddly. there is a u shaped spring clasp you need to dislodge. a long flat head screwdriver or some thin tweezers/pliers should get to this. i managed with a bit of fiddling. The black washer just slides off easy peasy. Fitting it back on is easier. just slot the spring back into the winder handle slots, then push on to the splined bolt until it clicks:

this is the door panel after its been taken off. Be extremely gentle with the lower part as i found out to my delight, the blue trim clips pulled through and damaged the door card and broke a little of the plastic off the clips. Remember when putting this back on to slot the top part (the black rubber window guide) into the door first and check to make sure the clips are aligned with the holes in the door. Press gently until it clicks in place.



here is the speaker hole after speaker is removed. just used a philips screwdriver to remove the 3 screws. The plastic sheet can be removed without damaging it, but i'll be keeping it. i used some of the gummy stuff from around the rest of the plastic sheet to help stick it on in place.

the hole itself measures 54mm deep (there is a metal joint that wont allow the speaker to go back any further).
The speaker grill thats part of the door card moulding gives you an extra 10mm approx, so you may get away with a deeper speaker with a 9mm thick spacer.

im fitting some Fli integrators that i lifted from my old Pug 306. so these may fit without the need for a yet to try it out.
i'll try to insert some more images soon when i get back to the job in hand :)


Its easy enough to explain,but pictures always help. Here we go:

- First, undo the 2 screws underneath the heater controls above and adjacent to the radio face:

- then remove the ash tray to reveal 2 more screws and remove these:

- gently pull the panel away from the bottom, gently working toward the top until it comes away - there will be 2 cables still attached (for the cigarette/12v input - if you have one - and the headlight adjuster) so be careful not to pull too far away:


- Next you will need to remove the screws holding the radio in, there should be 4 (2 either side of the radio facia):


- once these are removed, the radio will pull out easily. unplug the connectors at the back.
- You'll now need to remove the brackets from either side of the radio - these are what hold the radio in the dash unit. They are handily marked LH (left hand) and RH (right hand).


- once removed, you'll need to attach them to your new radio. these may or may not fit, but in this instance, at least one fitted mine either side, which is enough to hold it in firmly with no rattles:


(I put the unused screws back in the original radio if ever i come to get rid of the car and want to re-install it)

- Connect your new head unit up with the appropriate adapter (i dont have a reference number for it, i got it off ebay for a few quid).
I then put a couple of screws in to check all is working before putting the rest back on


- i did find that the facia surround that was included with the radio was slightly too big to have it attached when the dash was put back together and i struggled to get the facia to 'pop' out when i wanted to remove it, so i would recommend not using it! :p

- Re-attached the cig/12V input and light adjuster and replace the dash panel in reverse (slip the top end in first, then make sure the cables etc aren't in the way before pressing it into place).
- Put all 4 screws back in to hold the dash panel in place firmly and you're done:


Oh yeah - dont forget the ash tray :p


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@hugh: thanks for making this a sticky :)

and cheers for the comments guys. I got more pics coming regarding the radio removal and install. hopefully will get my speakers fitted soon so can finish the thread nicely. want to get some tweeters in the a pillars eventually which i think will make for a well rounded guide :) - is there a tidy way of doing this using existing a-pillars? i cant find a complete set with tweeter mounts on line...?

@shaun: yeah, took me a few minutes to figure the bloody window winder out!:p

if any one has any suggestions on how to make it better, let me know :)


Steve :)
The cable code ya need to look for is pcz-77-4 if I'm correct I stupidly bought shelf one the 72-4 cause I couldn't wait for to be ordered :p so for me I cut n stripped back negative wire n screwed to earth point, very clear guide shall be swappin my speakers somepoint or just remove n save weight thanks for pics on that


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The cable code ya need to look for is pcz-77-4 if I'm correct I stupidly bought shelf one the 72-4 cause I couldn't wait for to be ordered :p so for me I cut n stripped back negative wire n screwed to earth point, very clear guide shall be swappin my speakers somepoint or just remove n save weight thanks for pics on that

does earthing the negative solve the problem of the radio turning off with the ignition?


Once I win the Euromillions...
That's a very useful thread! Great guide, mate (Y)

If you want to bring your radio further and be able to fit the rectangular plastic surrounding that comes with it, you can fit a few washers before you put the screws in. It'll bring the radio up and out as much as you need and it'd look veery well and complete :p
Excellent guide, thank you!

Just wanted to add to it - my head unit came with a cage to slot into the dash, and I fitted that into the removed dash panel. It's a snug fit but went in perfectly, and once the cage tabs were bent out it's held totally securely in place. My radio then locks into that cage, which means the surround fits perfectly and the front stereo panel pops off as it should. No problems with clearance behind the cage when fitting the dash panel back in either.

I also had to use one of the original stereo mounting screws as an earth point for the stereo wiring - the two screw holes on the right hand side are earths, the left side aren't. One crimped ring on the earth wire from the adapter and job done.

The stereo will work without that fitted as it earths through the aerial, but I prefer to run a proper earth wire.

And now a quick question - you mentioned in the speaker fitting section that deeper speakers will fit okay with a 9mm spacer as there's an extra 10mm clearance behind the speaker grill. Just wondered if you'd fitted your deeper speakers and how that worked out? I'm fitting a set of JBL GTO6285 coaxials into my K11 facelift, I could have got the shallow versions for £40 but Halfords have an offer on the regular ones at £25 and it's too good to miss! However they are 59mm mounting depth and I know there's only 54mm to play with. If it's tight for space for the tweeter, I'm guessing a 6mm spacer would do?

Ignore the above - the speakers on offer at Halfords are the JBL GTO628 which have a mounting depth of 52mm.
A quick update...

Bought a set of JBL GTO628 6.5" 2 way speakers from Halfords on special offer - £26 instead of £60! - and set about fitting them today. As they have a mounting depth of 52mm they dropped straight in with no spacers needed.

The guide above is spot on, however if you have electric windows in your K11 then the door armrests are longer and have three screws, one visible at the front edge of the armrest. The top of the armrest pops off as above, held on with three clips. Once it's off you can disconnect the electric window wiring by pushing the locking tab down with a flathead screwdriver while you pull the connector out.

Before you do that though, wind the windows down - makes refitting the door cards much easier.

The stock speaker screws are beasts - fat hex head crosspoint jobbies. Easier to remove them with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive screwdriver.

The speaker connector needs to have a locking tab squeezed to remove it from the speaker. It also helps to unclip the wire clip from the door frame.

Both connectors have the same colour wires in them. The black wire with the red stripe is positive, the brown wire is negative. This meant that my JBLs needed a 6mm female spade connector crimping onto the positive wire, and a 3mm female spade connector crimping onto the brown wire. Your speakers may be different though so RTFM.

Because of the spacing of the existing holes, none of the adapter plates from the GTOs lined up. So I just drilled four new holes in the door and used flathead self tappers to screw the speakers directly to the door.

Refitting the door card was simple, especially with the window down. Really helps when slotting the top of the door card back into the window aperture.

All in all, to do both doors it took me one and a half hours and a cup of tea. And they sound great!
Just wondering if anyone here as installed an amp as i can seem to see a clear route for the power cable from the passengers side in the car into the engine bay. if anyone has done it and knows a route that work the help would be appreciated