Hello and a question

A

Ariesssnak

Hello and a question about solonoids now...

Hi all, Im Bazza from South London. I have an auto Micra 1.0 TRIKE... Ive just found out on the main general treads that its a K10 motor. It needs a new motor which Im looking out for, now.. How is a K10 auto listed as a model and year if Im talking to a breakers whos not sure what they've got..? And Im guessing that 1.2s might be a bit thin on the ground..?

Bazza :)
 
bazza

i think 1.2,s are post 88
there are,nt many in the scrappies nowadays but you might find a short mot, good runner somewere eh
 
sonic said:
there's these I found,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1990-Nissan-M...ryZ18238QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1989-Nissan-M...ryZ18238QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Click to expand...

Hey !!! Thanks a lot for that. Ive been looking all night. I'd seen the second one but that first one is only a couple of hours old and its perfect. I Hit the buy now for £85 for a 1 lady owner 1.2 auto with 17,000 miles only...s'got no MOT or tax and rust, perfect :) Its almost too good to be true...hope its not a wind-up..


Bazza :)
 
Hi all.......its been a while !!!!! :blush: I did get that 1.2 and its taken an eternity to get it into my trike, but now its in there...

IMG_5343.jpg


It took me a while to find this forum again...AND remember my password :laugh: Im getting it ready for an MOT and have a question or two.. I shall go to the technical section.
Bazza (Y)
 
Well, after taking a quick look around I guess this is the best place to ask....
The trike l have uses an unknown year K10 motor, auto-box and hubs/wheels. I need to replace the (front) disks as they are rusted and scored. I can see that all models from 82-92 use the same brake pads....though some disks are thicker ventilated types. But there seems to be some difference between K10 solid disks 82-88 / 88-92....? I found different part numbers and prices for these. What is the difference and how can I tell which ones I have...???
Heres the build thread in BritChopper forum: http://www.britchopper.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=14244
And heres the best picture l have of the hub;
teatime.jpg


Many thanks....Bazza :)
 
Ive found the answer.......its a difference of 3mm.....43mm or 46mm.

The other question is what on earth are all these wires coming out of the carb ???? The choke l understand, but what are the other 2 'solonoids?' doing...?? Its not running at slow revs..only runs if l really crank it wide open and keep it revving high.... :(
 
Ariesssnak said:
Ive found the answer.......its a difference of 3mm.....43mm or 46mm.

The other question is what on earth are all these wires coming out of the carb ???? The choke l understand, but what are the other 2 'solonoids?' doing...?? Its not running at slow revs..only runs if l really crank it wide open and keep it revving high.... :(
Click to expand...

they,re the fast idle and anti-diesel valves bazza iirc :)
 
frank said:
they,re the fast idle and anti-diesel valves bazza iirc :)
Click to expand...


Hiya, lve never heard of an anti-diesel valve....whats one of them then...?

My problem could be dirt/water in the carb as it ran okay for 30 minutes then went wierd, its been sitting a loooooooooooooong time.... Got the twin tanks off this evening....gonna clean them out, put new inline filters in and clean the carb out and try again. For those 30 minutes l was a happy chappy. It does not hang about !!!!!! Its pretty light and has the 1235cc motor now :D
 
it stops the engine from dieseling/running on when you turn the ignition off bazza (needs to be wired to the ignition live i think, or bypassed)
and the idle control valve is wired to the little box under the passenger seat iirc (cranks up the tickover when the lights etc are on) :)
 
wire up the anti run on (anti dieseling) solenoid to the ignition live, (as frank has already said). the idle up solenoid is so that when the lights or some other high drain thing is turned on the engine doesnt stall, i would have thought you wouldnt need to worry about it.

the variations in disks are for imports, to my knowledge all uk micras have solid disks on, so there should only be 1 type and the 1.0 and 1.2 brakes are identical.

how your engine is sat it looks like the easiest oil filter change ive ever seen, lol
 
Hi guys, thanks for the replies (Y)
Would l be right in thinking that if there was a problem with the anti dieseling solonoid, or if it wasnt wired in properly, then it wouldnt run properly..??? Is there a way of checking it or disabling it completely or removing it?
LOL :laugh: The back of the engine is very easy to get to, as is most of it...
The engine sounds really sweet. I put a new cam belt in, during the swap, just in case but the old one looked perfect.....seems the milage was true !!!!!
Turns out that a vicar was selling the old 1200 for charity after one of his parishoners gave it to him.....Ive turned it from a Holey Car to a Holy Trike :grinning:
 
There should be 2 wires on the solenoid, 1 to ground and 1 to the ignition live, no it wont run right if its not working, it wont idle, bur it will work reasonable well at full throttle, i had a fault with mine the fuse for it fell out, rendered the car totally undriveable.

all the solenoid does is shut off the fuel in the carb via sunding a plunger into a hole, so in theory if you removed the solenoid and put a blanking plud in the hole that should bypass it, but ive never done it so dont know if it will work, its probably just easier to wire it up to be honest.
 
superls said:
There should be 2 wires on the solenoid, 1 to ground and 1 to the ignition live, no it wont run right if its not working, it wont idle, bur it will work reasonable well at full throttle, i had a fault with mine the fuse for it fell out, rendered the car totally undriveable.

all the solenoid does is shut off the fuel in the carb via sunding a plunger into a hole, so in theory if you removed the solenoid and put a blanking plud in the hole that should bypass it, but ive never done it so dont know if it will work, its probably just easier to wire it up to be honest.
Click to expand...

Thanks...I'll check the fuses quickly and then go from there.. ;)
(just bought some fancy drilled and slotted Black Diamond disks)
 
Thinking on what you could do is, take out the solenoid, take out the spring and plunger and then refit the solenoid, that should bypass it.

Those black diamond disks were mega expensive last time i looked, i went for a complete vented brake upgrade, using brakes off of a 1.4 almera.
 
superls said:
Thinking on what you could do is, take out the solenoid, take out the spring and plunger and then refit the solenoid, that should bypass it.

Those black diamond disks were mega expensive last time i looked, i went for a complete vented brake upgrade, using brakes off of a 1.4 almera.
Click to expand...

I'll try that ta....(Y)

The disks and special pads arent cheap, but need to be as good as possible as lm running them off a hand operated mastercylinder.
(is the k10 inlet manifold the same fitting as a k11 ??....coz someone is selling some bike carbs and an adapted k11 manifold)
Bazza :)
 
unfortunatley anything 'performance' enhancing for the micra is expensive, thats why i upgraded, all of my setup, with roughly 50mm larger vented disks inc brand new mintex disks and pads cost me around the £100 mark, and now i get far better and more efficient braking with no fade what so ever, just i a guess id say just your disks cost more than half of that?

no the k10 and k11 inlets are different,

a while ago i made up a custom k10 inlet manifold with cbr600 carbs on, worked really well, ran spot on, i solt them to a member called 'whipit' who never fitted them and WAS selling them on, now to my knowledge he still has them so give him a pm. but really you would need a 4-2-1 exhaust to go with it, i have one of those for sale. thread is >>here<< bike carbs >>here<< if you click the link in my signiture theres a bit about the carbs on my website '8 valvers'
 
superls said:
unfortunatley anything 'performance' enhancing for the micra is expensive, thats why i upgraded, all of my setup, with roughly 50mm larger vented disks inc brand new mintex disks and pads cost me around the £100 mark, and now i get far better and more efficient braking with no fade what so ever, just i a guess id say just your disks cost more than half of that?

no the k10 and k11 inlets are different,

a while ago i made up a custom k10 inlet manifold with cbr600 carbs on, worked really well, ran spot on, i solt them to a member called 'whipit' who never fitted them and WAS selling them on, now to my knowledge he still has them so give him a pm. but really you would need a 4-2-1 exhaust to go with it, i have one of those for sale. thread is >>here<< bike carbs >>here<< if you click the link in my signiture theres a bit about the carbs on my website '8 valvers'
Click to expand...

Hiya, yep the disks and pads (drilled and grooved) were £150...I need every bit of braking help l can get operating them from the bars.

I like the look of your exhuast and manifold...very smart (Y) The one thing that makes me wonder about that set-up for me is the kickdown cable to my auto-box......could be a ###### to fabricate and set up properly.....???
Gonna check out the solonoids this weekend and fit the disks. I'll get some pics sorted.
Bazza
 
Hi, can someone help me identify which solonoid is which, please... Am l right in thinking that one of these is the anti-dieseling and one is the tickover adjuster...? The book lm reading says the opposite of what l thought l had worked out.....:(

solonoids.jpg


Thanks..........Bazza (Y)
 
Back to the brakes thing, there are 2 types, pre-facelift and facelift. I bought pre-facelift ones and they didn't fit my facelift. If you want you can have the ones I bought that didn't fit for £5 plus postage, the £5 is to cover the bus fare to the post office lol - just read you want uprated ones, make sure you get the right year anyways
 
frank said:
the anti d one has 1 wire bazza, and the idle control one has 2 :)
Click to expand...

Oh.. :eek: Now lm really confused :down: I have a connector with 2 wires coming from the alternator....they are both live. 1 goes to the auto choke and the other to what is now the anti-d.........

The solonoid with 2 wires l had simply wired up to a 12v and an earth as l thought it was the anti-d. How should this (now) idle control be wired up then ?????? My brain hurts :blush:
 
ollyc98 said:
Back to the brakes thing, there are 2 types, pre-facelift and facelift. I bought pre-facelift ones and they didn't fit my facelift. If you want you can have the ones I bought that didn't fit for £5 plus postage, the £5 is to cover the bus fare to the post office lol - just read you want uprated ones, make sure you get the right year anyways
Click to expand...

Thankyou very much for the offer, much appreciated, but l dug deep in my pockets and got these;
IMG_5393.jpg


Havnt had a chance to try them yet :(
 
Ooh pretty, they won't brake better, they just won't fade so much. OUt of interest what sort of setup are you running? Any vaccuum assist? Or just a modified motorbike master cylinder
 
Ariesssnak said:
Oh.. :eek: Now lm really confused :down: I have a connector with 2 wires coming from the alternator....they are both live. 1 goes to the auto choke and the other to what is now the anti-d.........

The solonoid with 2 wires l had simply wired up to a 12v and an earth as l thought it was the anti-d. How should this (now) idle control be wired up then ?????? My brain hurts :blush:
Click to expand...

the one from the alternator to the autochoke is a 14v live which works the bi-metalic coil on the choke flap, so that it only starts to open when the engine is running (and wont start to open if you leave the ignition on) :)
 
ollyc98 said:
Ooh pretty, they won't brake better, they just won't fade so much. OUt of interest what sort of setup are you running? Any vaccuum assist? Or just a modified motorbike master cylinder
Click to expand...

Im running an AP Lockheed racing M/Cl which would run a pair of 6 pot bike calipers. No vaccuum assist.....(yet)
 
frank said:
the one from the alternator to the autochoke is a 14v live which works the bi-metalic coil on the choke flap, so that it only starts to open when the engine is running (and wont start to open if you leave the ignition on) :)
Click to expand...

I was talking with someone about that today and wondered how they got around the fact that someone might sit in the car with the ignition on without starting it....
....any idea how the tickover solonoid should be wired ??? Or can l just take out both plungers and not worry ??? Im gonna take out the anti-d one, as lm trying to simplify eveything.
 
Ariesssnak said:
I was talking with someone about that today and wondered how they got around the fact that someone might sit in the car with the ignition on without starting it....
....any idea how the tickover solonoid should be wired ??? Or can l just take out both plungers and not worry ??? Im gonna take out the anti-d one, as lm trying to simplify eveything.
Click to expand...

i would bypass them both personally (you can toe-n-heel a trike no probs eh) i ended up fitting my idle control back on tho :wasntme: (albeit remotely mounted)
 
frank said:
i would bypass them both personally (you can toe-n-heel a trike no probs eh) i ended up fitting my idle control back on tho :wasntme: (albeit remotely mounted)
Click to expand...

Ive just stripped, cleaned and re-assembled the carb. Ive taken the plunger out of the anti-D.....but lm going to put the tickover plunger in without connecting it to any wires. Hope this works. Should find out soon enough.. :)
 

Similar threads

A
Hello and a question
Replies
23
Views
2K
NeX
NeX
C
new coat soon! and pics!
Replies
4
Views
146
CMF_33driver
C
C
Known issues with K11 and solutions.
Replies
15
Views
972
CMF_psmicra
C
MrMigs08
Advice on Maintenance/Service (Fluids and filters).
Replies
23
Views
3K
MrMigs08
MrMigs08
Back
Top