Heavy steering and reluctant to return re-centre steering wheel

OK so I have a 2009 1.5dci with 50k miles

It has been serviced religiously every year but has only done a few thousand miles in the last few years (old owner + pandemic)
The car has spent most of its life near the south coast. I was worried about a corrosion horror show but mostly it looks really good.

On getting it home the steering had not really improved much so i lifted the front and took the wheels off to try and see if there is something binding in the steering/suspension setup. visually it looks ok except the front hub carrier and strut are super rusty. On turning the steering lock to lock (in the air under no load) you can hear a creak from passenger side strut top mount and see both struts top nuts moving.

PS light goes off fine.

Is this a common issue, what parts do you recommend I replace if so and any recommendation on decent brands/places to buy.

Thanks :)
 
I have a list of parts on here somewere, I tend to get most of my spares using Renault part codes as lots of the k12 diesels use same parts in many areas and sometimes are cheaper to source. I had same problem with my Diesel, Its the weight of the Engine which is heavier than the petrol version, but with new bearings this will be cured. K12's tend to collect water in the top struts, but you can get covers for these, which have been covered in the forum earlier. I would advise you to remove the right hand headlight and check beneaf for rust on top on the wheel arch, the insulation pads tend to absorb water and rust this area. If you want any other advice with your diesel get back to us.:unsure:
 
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Hi there,

I think I found your previous postings on the subject.

Have replaced the struts and drop links with Meyle, and top mounts with corteco. Took in for a Hunter 4 wheel alignment today and it had way too much toe so had that fixed. Steering feels much better but still a bit lazy to return. It no longer feels like it is trying to turn into the corner itself. My other car is RWD mercedes V class so it feels very very different.

I will take a look for rust but doing the struts took longer than I though (had to buy an impact wrench to free some bits)
 
Great, micra's are fun to drive and great on fuel, if you run some Archoil AR6900-D Max in the tank it will clean out the gunk in the fuel system and give you improved engine performance and extra MPG.:)
 
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Well a few weeks after changing most of the front end and getting alignment done...It is better but far from perfect. I find it har to believe they were like this from factory so ???

Totally drivable, not an MoT or safety issue but does not feel perfect. In general loving it though. Easily get 65mpg per tank now and it is like a little go kart to throw around.
 
Yes great cars for driving, just replaced my inner track rod ends, as I have replaced the subframe bushes and stabaliser rubbers and changed the down links. as its way easier to do this when subframe is lowered. Micra diesels are heavier on the steering than the petrol versions as it the weight of the engine, however the steering is just about right when everything is working ok, if you try a little more air pressure in the tyres that may help with lighter steering if that is what you need.:unsure:
 
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Its not the weight of the steering - I am still strong enough ;-) It is more that when you put in small amounts of steering say up to 20 degrees the wheel has no tendency to recenter. If you put more than that then the wheel does get most, though not all, of the way back.
 
Check the lower ball joints on lower wishbones, they tend to be overlooked and are easy to replace and tend to become stiff even if not worn when car suffers lack of use.
spares for lower wishbones are:54500 - AX600 & 54501-AX600, these parts are cheap enough and not long to change.:unsure:
 
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Think that sounds like the next job. Would certainly fit with the usage profile of the car (5000 miles since 2017!) I/we have now put 2000 miles on in a couple of months as it has been totally reliable and fun. Any thoughts if the track rod ends could/would also influence this?

There are SO many pattern parts - any recommendation for a manufacturer, might just stick with the meyle as seemed pretty well made - For the sake of another £50 I'd rather do the job with parts that will last as long as possible as I am hoping to keep this for all 3 kids to learn to drive on (another 4-5 years)
 
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I use European parts when ever I can, here is a link to Meyle wishbones with a 10% reduction in price at the moment:
Also a video link to help:

The outer track rod ends are easy to replace for peace of mind.:)
 
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OK so I have a 2009 1.5dci with 50k miles

It has been serviced religiously every year but has only done a few thousand miles in the last few years (old owner + pandemic)
The car has spent most of its life near the south coast. I was worried about a corrosion horror show but mostly it looks really good.

On getting it home the steering had not really improved much so i lifted the front and took the wheels off to try and see if there is something binding in the steering/suspension setup. visually it looks ok except the front hub carrier and strut are super rusty. On turning the steering lock to lock (in the air under no load) you can hear a creak from passenger side strut top mount and see both struts top nuts moving.

PS light goes off fine.

Is this a common issue, what parts do you recommend I replace if so and any recommendation on decent brands/places to buy.

Thanks :)
Have you checked the steering column shaft universal joints aren't seizing up. Had this a few times on different makes and models over the years especially ones that are under the bonnet and exposed to the elements. They tend to stiffen up around the straight ahead point because that's where they spend most of the time when car is parked up.
 
Steering column shafts on the K12 are designed for greater range of movement on their shafts than other makes of cars, due to allowing enough play to lower and unbolt from the lower subframe and then be reattached when reassemble of the subframe is undertaken. tight steering knuckles like on my Suzuki's and other makes do stiffen but these tend to have direct contact via a splined shaft of which the K12 Micra's had to be designed differently because of the above reason.:unsure:
 
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Steering column shafts on the K12 are designed for greater range of movement on their shafts than other makes of cars, due to allowing enough play to lower and unbolt from the lower subframe and then be reattached when reassemble of the subframe is undertaken. tight steering knuckles like on my Suzuki's and other makes do stiffen but these tend to have direct contact via a splined shaft of which the K12 Micra's had to be designed differently because of the above reason.:unsure:
I did look for UJ but the only one I could see was inside the car and looked OK. Not sure if there rack itself can get stiff corroded. It id a bit depressing to spend time and money and make no major difference though!
 
Yes the UJ lives in the car foot well and is shielded from the elements, the main steering rack lives on top of the front subframe and which is protected from the elements by a plastic splash guard that covers from the front of the car to the rear of the subframe. I have just refurbished my steering rack so I know what is involved. A quick way to put your mind at rest without spending is to unbolt the outer track rod ends, this way you can operate the steering without being attached to the steering knuckles and check if the rack is stiff or not. :unsure:
 
If the ps light goes out when you start up, then it's possible that the cpu has checked the system as ok, however I still believe untill you check the steering mechanics first and renew what needs to be changed you will not have a clear idea. K12's are great when you know them, buying a good one still requires a check and renew policy for your own safety.:)
 
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One has to ask, 'is the electric power steering working'? ..........
Yes absolutely. Huge difference with it 'on' PS light also goes out on start of engine correctly.

This definitely feels like a stiction problem with the geometry of the car not quite able to overcome the final few degrees of steering to return it to centre
 
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