handbrake cable

[apnamani]

Hi there,

some guys seem to show their muscle power a bit too much when it comes to pulling the hand brake and as a result they seem to have stretched handbrake cable on my K10 micra. My handbrake went up a comfortable 4 notches and now its going up 6-7 notches. I did a search on this forum and found this thread, which shows a diagram and another tip which sounds like its adjusting the shoes in the drum :s ???

http://www.micra.org.uk/showthread.php?t=228&highlight=handbrake+cable

In my situation would i need to adjust the cable or mess around with the adjuster in the drum, i still need to check the shoes but i doubt its the problem.

your help is very much appreciated.

thanks,

Mani

 

[Arnold]

Adjust the cable by the adjuster in the drums but do what the other thread says and check the pads first.

 

[K10]

my cable was over stretched, so i replaced it all- not too bad job.

as others say ensure the turnbuckles are adjusted correctly first, as you may not need a new cable

 

[apnamani]

rear brake drum

Hi there,

I read on some posts that provided the handbrake is down the drum should just come off after the wheel is taken off but on my K10 micra the drum does not seem to do so. I tried to whack the drum with a hammer thinking it would losen up a bit but it doesn't seem to. It feels like something is holding it in? i didn't want to whack it too hard as i was worried that something in it might lose it position and the handbrake won't work.

any help or advice would be appreciated?

 

[sonic]

after time a lip apears on the inside of the drum through the drum itself wearing down with contact from the brake shoes, it can make it hard to pull the drum on, make sure the cable adjuster is slackened off and tap around the drum with a soft faced mallet as you pull the drum off, with perseverance it will free off.

 

[misterBaz]

If the drum doesn't come off with whacking it, then there is another alternative. You will notice there are two threaded holes with no nuts in them. You need to find two nuts that have that same thread and you need to screw them into those holes. (just do one turn on one nut, then one turn on the other, then anoter turn on the other nut, etc, etc, so that the drum comes out evenly.)

 

[apnamani]

Cheers People!

I was wondering why they have these two threaded holes. I have plenty of threaded nut screws that i can try so will let you know how i get on.

thanks!

Mani

 

[apnamani]

Hi all,

I managed to adjust my rear brake shoes. The condition of the shoes were good and not worn down too much. It was a bit of a fiddle but just needed a good strong screwdriver. There was a toothed wheel or cog where i stuck the screwdriver tip and pushed it upwards and i noticed after a while that there was a gap between the piston and the shoe so i pressed the brake peddle and a big mistake it was. The shoes moved outwards and the cog with the thread rod came of position so i ended up taking the spring out and readjust it. One side at a time were done but i have reduced the clicks to 2 clicks. Is that fine as i heard some mechanics leave it ideally at 3 clicks. i was thinking of readjusting it to about 4 clicks. I think this time I will jack the car from the back and do both at the same time.

Also a small question about what verocity oil do i need to use for a 1.0L micra K10 1991? i used 15W 40 but is that the ideal one to use?

thanks,

Mani

 

[misterBaz]

viscosity is the word your after, and 15-40 will be fine. I use 10-40.

 

[Arnold]

Two clicks im sure is fine, maybe three would be better just incase the hand break is not fully released on two clicks. I found out earlier by an MOT bloke that it doesn't matter how many clicks it takes to secure the brake, as long as it works!

I use 10/40 Castrol GTX oil on mine. Not the high milage one, despite doing 115,000 miles. Runs beautifully!