Gearbox oil etc

Anybody know the change intervals on a manual k11 micra 1999 for the various wear components in the gear box?

My gears have been difficult to slot in recently, I thought it was probably just because the other spring went (it used to return from the 5/reverse side, but not from the 1/2 side) and because the gearbox was getting old

But thinking more on it now, it could just be gearbox oil/clutch/link cable

How many thousand miles between changes? Not being driven aggressively for the most part
 
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Can you select gears more easily with the engine not running compared too when the engine is idling?

Check the gearbox oil level?

Should there be a manual gearbox oil change schedule it is more accurate to refer to the Nissan handbook & or Haynes workshop manual rather than hearsay anecdote.

I have never needed to change manual gearbox oil in 45 years of driving while doing all my own DIY maintenance as necessary. Including my three K10s that I eventually sold on still running well at 150K miles plus. :)
 
I've not tried, I'll have to test it next time I'm out at the car. If I could change the gears more easily with the car not running what would that be symptomatic of?

A brief googling I did said a clutch can last 30,000, 60,000 or 90,000 depending on the clutch, so no use at all. Gearbox oil said every couple years or between 40,000 and 60,000 miles since last change

It is subjective though, depending on driving habits. But as far as I'm concerned what happens between the engine and the wheels is just magic, no clue the specifics of how that all works I'm just glad it does. I know how to test for a slipping clutch but that's about it, and gears worsen so slowly that it's barely noticeable how bad the gear changes are until you either drive a new car or get a new transmission fitted and realise how much of a POS your old one was. I like to think I'm quite light on them, heat building up being the enemy I do quite a lot of long journeys so that could add wear from it getting hot over a long journey, but no idea if being in 5th for hours is better or worse for the transmission than constantly changing while in traffic, not a clue. I change at the right times, when I first had the car and I was new at driving I would bog down the engine quite a bit changing up too early. I do occasionally have the foot on the floor, but usually just take 2nd all the way to the red and then let it wind down, there's no chance on the road to bang through all the gears I'm not setting any land-speed records :ROFLMAO:
 
Easier gear change without eng running, suggests that the clutch is not fully disengaging & thus it requires adjustment or repair.

In addition you may try fully lubricating the gear change linkage joints & moving parts from gear lever to gearbox.

Bear in mind that this is an old banger where perfection is expensive & difficult to achieve. I have driven new company cars where the gearbox was a right notchy pig of a gear change where you have to use your strength or double declutch sometimes.

NB. Adjusting the clutch cable setting is an acquired skill, not for a novice to rush into, outlined & described in detail in the Haynes manual. (y)
 
So I've tested with the car off vs with the car on. It's just as difficult to get it into gear with the car off, the change from 2nd to 3rd is very difficult, and the change from neutral to reverse requires both my arms to get it in. It's even difficult to wobble it side to side in neutral. 1st to 2nd is fine though weirdly?

Can I safely assume linkage joints and gear lever need grease? what kind do I use and do I have to jack the car up to do it? Do I have to clean the old stuff off somehow? Should I just take it to a garage lol?
 
Quote; “do I have to jack the car up to do it”?

Do not use jacks to access crawl underneath a vehicle.

Portable DIY car ramps or axle stands are required to enable safe access to lubricate the gear linkage with penetrating oil. Alternatively ask your local garage workshop to do it & try to build a friendly long term trust based relationship with them.

Did you try gear changing with engine not running and pressing the clutch pedal to the floor as well as without pressing clutch pedal to the floor?

Use an aerosol liquid penetrating oil (almost any penetrating oil is better than WD) with an extension 150mm tube to reach above & around the exhaust heat shield that obscures part of the linkage operating connecting swivel joints.

Referance; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Globatek-300Ml-Strong-Penetrating-Maintenance/dp/B0083IRRQG/ref=sr_1_21?adgrpid=56031199154&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsluFs8akvrl3ln079uDh9b8MvBR-LnykHZ7T

Good luck & stay safe when getting down & dirty under your vehicle saving hard earned money.
 
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So today I've had chance to get out and do some work on the car without having to go anywhere, usually I'm in a rush because as a rule I'm running about 10 minutes late all the time. First thing I did was have a play around with the gear lever with everything cold, clutch in and clutch out. Not sure exactly what's going on but with the engine and gearbox and everything cold overnight with the clutch in all the gear changes are easy enough, and with the clutch out the same. Decided to take the surround off the gear lever (couldn't untwist the top so I just lifted and held it) and I got some wd40 down there from the top with a straw and then used lithium grease afterwards

Now when I drive it the gear changes aren't as difficult as they were before, but they're still a bit tougher with the engine idling and everything at operating temperature. This is also still true if I shut everything off and try to shift it while the engine isn't running but things are warm.

Are there any more points I can grease easily? I saw a video that suggested removing the linkage and injecting grease into it but that looked like a lot of work, I think if I can get all the easily accessible moving parts with a bit of grease it might be manageable even if the inside is a bit dry
 
Quote; “Now when I drive it the gear changes aren't as difficult as they were before, but they're still a bit tougher with the engine idling and everything at operating temperature. This is also still true if I shut everything off and try to shift it while the engine isn't running but things are warm”.

Clutch adjustment by a competent person is the next logical action or compromise to use your strength or to momentarily put it into an alternative gear before immediately putting it into the required gear or to double declutch sometimes.

This is one of my compromises, improvise, adapt & overcome strategies of dealing with the idiosyncrasies of cheap & cheerful old bangers without wasting hard earned money on it.
 
Anybody know the change intervals on a manual k11 micra 1999 for the various wear components in the gear box?

My gears have been difficult to slot in recently, I thought it was probably just because the other spring went (it used to return from the 5/reverse side, but not from the 1/2 side) and because the gearbox was getting old

But thinking more on it now, it could just be gearbox oil/clutch/link cable

How many thousand miles between changes? Not being driven aggressively for the most part
Don't know the interval Matt but can say that last Summer I did a drain and replaced with a synthetic gearbox oil and was absolutely amazed at the improvement. I expected nothing but wanted to know I'd at least tried ... there was quite a whine which did not affect operation but was annoying. Although thinking on, selecting odd gears was not always a precise science and definitely seems better now.

But it was a well worthwhile improvement. I recall it being less than cheap to do .... think from memory I used best part of 3 packs of a decent synthetic. In that sense Plmval's comment is fair but putting economics on one side, it was in my case a very pleasing improvement.

Just to note ours is a base model, unfettered or modified 94' 1.0L with 76k miles on it. I doubt the oil was ever changed before (we have had it maybe 16 years ish) and we know the previous owner but very much doubt they ever did anything.

A surprise for me, I thought it was just going to be a service tick but a very real improvement. Think I posted details somewhere. Hope is helpful.
 
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