gear / clutch problem after tweaking ..?

funky2nite

funky2nite

Ex. Club Member
Hey guys,

sorry to bother again, recently I've adjusted the clutch cable nut as the car helplessly knocked on accelerating from stationary, irrelevant how hard I tried to take off quickly. First I tightened i loosened the nut a lot as had no clue which side it should be adjusted and it kinda felt the same. few days later I reversed the the side which the nut was tightened and immediately the knocking reduced, immediately. Now just 3-4 days later I just returned back home and during drive the clutch is feeling way softer the pedal half way through, then its hard and a grinding noise is heard by simply pressing clutch fully.

first gear cannot be engaged, nor reverse.... Clutch was replaced 5-6 yrs ago and was replaced luxuriously as it worked fine, but slipped whenever I tried to wheelspin.. heh was younger at that time.

anyone can shed some light on my issue. Tomorrow morning I'll upload a video with the grinding noise thats heard when pressing clutch fully, irrespective if the car is on gear or neutral, noise is heard until pedal depressed.

thanks guys for always helping,
Ian
 
That's your release bearing on its way out and with your pedal half way down and you've adjusted the cable. I'd say your in for a replacement clutch
Possibly cable too :) try tightening the cable up that'll help the low pedal issue.
 
h701micra said:
That's your release bearing on its way out and with your pedal half way down and you've adjusted the cable. I'd say your in for a replacement clutch
Possibly cable too :) try tightening the cable up that'll help the low pedal issue.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your reply man, gosh new clutch o_O...will start looking off ebay UK again. tomorrow when I'll record the noise and I'll also try to tighten it max poss then the nut unde rbattery tray on K11...cos all happened after tweaking the cable couple of times lastweek.. In two sundays time I'll be to London for my graduation, maybe I'll pick a clutch up from anywhere I fnd reasonabbly priced..unless it fixes itself by tightening..which I doubt :/ ;)
 
A harsh grinding when the pedal is pressed is the release bearing. It might not necessarily replacing the whole clutch but they come in 3 piece kits and mights aswel do the whole thing. They can be had for around £35.
The cable wont solve the grinding noise but it may solve others :)
 
The sound can be heard here :

I've tightened the cable a little and the rverse can now be engaged only by fully depressing the pedal..at least the car can get back in motion, Am I harming the micra if I drive it further as it is.. maybe I can get more from the current clutch before getting a new one?

Thanks Guys,
Ian
 
In the video ignore the bang sound, that must have been my finger hitting the phone..cos it sounds nuts as if its a backfire. the only sound to keep note of is the 'grinding' sound
 
Your doing your car no harm by driving it as it is. Cable haa done its job. Although I'd recommend that new clutch as soon as you can. Wouldn't want that release bearing to fail

And I'd say at a guess that the gearbox grinding when selecting reverse is because of:
A. Clutch not fully releasing
B. High idle. Try dabbing the accelerator to see if the revs drop then try selecting reverse
 
h701micra said:
Your doing your car no harm by driving it as it is. Cable haa done its job. Although I'd recommend that new clutch as soon as you can. Wouldn't want that release bearing to fail

And I'd say at a guess that the gearbox grinding when selecting reverse is because of:
A. Clutch not fully releasing
B. High idle. Try dabbing the accelerator to see if the revs drop then try selecting reverse
Click to expand...

Thanks man, you're the king! I'll try as you said
 
Just to keep anyone posted on having similar clutch symptoms . New clutch kit have been installed and thankfully it's better than ever...

Anyone curious.. here's the purchased clutch kit locally (fitting my micra K11 5dr CG10DE / 1.0L petrol engine 1995) bought for Eur57

20130708_125551.jpg


damage found as below:

20130708_122143.jpg


and auto parts store sold me 3 Ltr gear oil since transmission must be drained for replacing clutch.... we ended only using up 1 litr since the square-shaped nut for draining tranny was too tight and we prevented damging it and replaced only the ltr that overflowed during disassembly,
20130708_130156.jpg


bearing snapped from both sides, and clutch had two snapped 'plates/springs' in bluish colour

20130708_122052.jpg


Anyone asking, the clutch had been installed for 4 n a half yrs... I know I know it's too early to replace clutch again... it's crazy and i'm not that badd..
 
to my dismay, I've been told that passenger side balljoint needs replacing, rear engine mount is berserk, steering rack should be looked at... but suggested that I try to inject some gear oil in both cv joints at each wheel's shaft.. and a subframe support running from beneath engine to near catalyser and is bolted with two bolts with thick rubber washers to absorb movement.. rubber/ plastic is all tarnished out.... have no clue where I could replace these two bolts, and the techie insisted that this would make noticeable difference in ride quality....
 
funky2nite said:
sorted through support from loyal micra owners just like you! thanks mate!
Click to expand...
You're welcome glad I could help

funky2nite said:
if you're deffo it could be me.. tell me man, I dont wanna repeat my mistakes over... its too costly
Click to expand...
Usually cheap parts are great for quick fixes but are usually prone to failing sooner
You're better off going to a scrapyard and getting a genuine steering rack and engine mount for replacements :)
 
funky2nite said:
and a subframe support running from beneath engine to near catalyser and is bolted with two bolts with thick rubber washers to absorb movement.. rubber/ plastic is all tarnished out.... have no clue where I could replace these two bolts, and the techie insisted that this would make noticeable difference in ride quality....
Click to expand...
those 2 subframe mounts are a crap design, and you end up with noise and vibrations in the cabin, i cut mine off and fitted some proper rubber mounts

84183.jpg
 
h701micra said:
You're welcome glad I could help


Usually cheap parts are great for quick fixes but are usually prone to failing sooner
You're better off going to a scrapyard and getting a genuine steering rack and engine mount for replacements :)
Click to expand...
yes, i,m still using the same (15 year old ?) 2nd hand factory fitted LUK clutch 2 years on (and mine.s not a stock 1.0) :)
 
frank said:
yes, i,m still using the same (15 year old ?) 2nd hand factory fitted LUK clutch 2 years on (and mine.s not a stock 1.0) :)
Click to expand...
I must invest in one of these LUK clutches they sound pretty resilient. I'm using a national one in my ga16
 
frank said:
those 2 subframe mounts are a crap design, and you end up with noise and vibrations in the cabin, i cut mine off and fitted some proper rubber mounts

View attachment 23950
Click to expand...


Thanks for the picture Frank!, Am I right to think that the subframe sits lower at one end and the bolts were replaced to longer ones in your modified version? Looks interesting!
 
h701micra said:
You're welcome glad I could help


Usually cheap parts are great for quick fixes but are usually prone to failing sooner
You're better off going to a scrapyard and getting a genuine steering rack and engine mount for replacements :)
Click to expand...

any scrappies you know of.. that might be stocking k11's ? in a week's time I'm coming to London for my graduation.. but would deffo find time to go hunt at some breakers..
 

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