Fuel pump issues

[kyleb]

Hi guys,

I've recently inherited a Micra (k11 1999 1.3) that's been sitting for about a year,

The engine turns over, but doesn't start. Disconnected the fuel line after the filter and no fuel was coming through when trying to start it. Couldn't hear the pump either.
Next, took the rear seats off. Checked voltage of pump plug when trying to start, and its zero. Fuel pump relay also isn't switching at any point. Even after putting in a new relay, no voltage at plug or clicking from the relay. Hope I've explained well enough. I'm not sure what to do next, its only got 31k miles on it.

Can anyone help? TIA

 

[frank]

the ecu signals the pump, there was a thread a few weeks back

 

[MattInARedMicra]

You can rule out NATS/immobiliser issues as those affect the injectors

Could be blocked fuel filter? (either the in-line one or the bag filter on the pump)

Could be empty with the fuel gauge not working? could also be gummed up with old-fuel? (although you'd still expect a voltage at the pump)

Could be a fuse? (there are fuses in the engine bay and also under the steeringwheel to the right, one of them is for the fuel pump)

Could be a dead fuelpump? they're around £60 for a new one although a bit of a bugger to replace

You can usually hear the fuel pump come on quite loudly when you turn the key usually - I thought this was timed with pressure at the injectors but somebody told me in the thread that frank mentioned that it's just on a 3 second timer. So there's no sort of pressure switch or anything to think about, if you don't hear it every time you turn the car to 'on' without attempting to turn the engine over

 

[SuperUno]

Check fuel pump relay, blue and down by your right foot when driving. They do fail, caused us some issues in the past, pump is now directly powered via a switch.

 

[kyleb]

Thank you for the replies, everyone,

Took the dashboard off and used contact cleaner on the relay and its plug, still, no power going to the pump and the relay doesn't click. Strangely no voltage across relay terminals too.

Fuse is also good, with 12V across its terminals.

I don't have an OBD reader, but used the trick to get a code via check engine light and it gave 55, which is all good. Did notice a little bit of rust near the ECU though, so I cleaned all its connectors but that didn't help.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

Also @SuperUno, as in you've wired in your own switch? Will it pass an MOT like that?

 

[SuperUno]

Never had an issue with the MOT, but ours is a full stage rally car, so there are allowances for rally cars and MOTs. Can't see most MOT testers having an issue with it.

 

[frank]

the relay only kicks in for 5sec unless there is a crank signal
you could fit an inertia switch like the early fuel injected cars had

 

[trike micra]

Unplug the relay and check for a supply voltage for the pump, if that’s ok then it’s signal issue.
to check switched supply you will need to connect your meter before turning on the ignition, it will only show voltage for the first 5 seconds of being switched on.
black and yellow is signal voltage fr the ecu, brown is the supply voltage from fuse 17, 4th one down on the right side of the fuse box.
Fuse 17 is feed from the ignition switch, white and green.