Front lower radiator crossmember

Does anyone know if changing a lower front subframe will require alot of work I'm asking because been told it has corrosion and so want to find out more info.
Anyone replaced one on k12 b4?
The item looks like this and as far as I know its under the radiator.
I will try brushing it with wire wheel first and get an idea of what condition it's actually in.
For now tho we can say it's an advisory.
I fully intend to replace the item with new part should that be required.
And also will take pictures shortly.

I already know its really crusty and decided to leave it when painting drums last time reason was it didn't look worth putting paint on.
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Presumably welded in, itll be take off most of the front of the car, rad out etc, cut the old one out or drill out the spot welds (if that was how it was done, not sure) and then installation opposite of removal. Very common job on K11s, not so much K12s. Also personally wouldnt call that part of the subframe, to me thats a crossmember, the subframe is just the tiny K shape bit right underneath
Yes I got the name confused it's subframe.
I will have a look and see in the owners manual about how it's connected.
Was thinking it would just bolt on.
Atleast that's how they look on the Renault clio and that's got similar parts.

The crossmember is still in good shape or was last time I looked 😁
Here is something that might help me figure it out better.
As far as I know is the part right on bottom of front bumper that didn't look all that great last time and is highlighted in the second photo.
To my knowledge it's remove head lights, bumper, wheel arch covers and then it should be visible to replace.
The question is will the item be replaceable or just a nightmare that need welding.
Let's just say for now I remember the part going across bottom of the bumper is wavy like in the image.
This to me does not match with the part I show first post and as far as I'm aware didn't look like was connected or holding the radiator in place.
Will have a look and see what pictures I've taken of the under carriage in the past it might show something.


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Okay so after looking I have instead done a video roll across.
It looks solid still and seems to just be surface rust to me.
Meaning it will fall off with the brush and could possibly be rust cured then painted for a short term repair.
You may also see I shown that the engine has a small oil leak I have not been able to locate this yet and it was already known.
But when I wiped it away from that area last time it did not return so may be high up.
One thing I do know is its stood on a drive and I have had no issue with patches on the floor not even one drip.
Back with the lower crossmember tho when I tap and scrape it it still has plenty of what feels like solid metal left on the middle section obviously not able to test that at the very ends without removing parts. Rust on crossmember
The part looks to be the original.
Have given it a light brush by hand it does still feel solid from one end to the other. Clearing it all will have to wait for another day with the wire drill brush.
What I did notice was bolts just inwards from the point of ends on the lower bumper grill maybe these are the fixing points as they are large bolts.
The rear plate light looks great as this is an original part the other was an aftermarket.
My other task is to check or have the fluid level checked on the coolant.
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Just been giving the crossmember some wired drill brushing.
Takes a while to get it all off. Does seem to only be surface rust.
Only problem atm is can only access so much the bumper bolts and lip are in the way.
My plan for now is clear the item as best I can and then eventually use some inhibitor then paint it.
Would be nice to remove and do both sides.
Didn't notice any weak areas at this point really need to get it on the stands to give better view though.
Doubt a replacement part other than original will be as strong as this one.
That really shows why I cannot find any replacement info on this item.
Trying to workout if possible removal of front bumper without removing the head lights and front wheels.
Is this possible without the removal of these.
This way could save time if its okay.
Trying to workout if possible removal of front bumper without removing the head lights and front wheels.
Is this possible without the removal of these.
This way could save time if its okay.
Haynes manual says you can get front bumper off without headlights or wheels, just take the grilles out first. I was looking at doing it earlier with no success
Not sure why I thought the lights had to be removed maybe it was for something else I had planned.

Rad needs a top up and I'm guessing if I take the crossbar off the rad will need to be held up while it's removed.
Have been making a block to seat on the trolley jack this is to try and avoid it moving around when I lift at the rear.
So its just a circle cut into a block the block isn't that long.the block can fit over the whole cup of jack I could have stopped and just made it a tight fit to the movable insert but decided a little more overlap may ensure it stays in place.
Not sure if it will work.The plan is so it can be lifted from the garage jack point that I was unable to get to work right last time around.
Probably not the safest method will let you know if it was any good later I'm guessing it should work tho.
Be back next week to continue the lowercross member.
Bit of a chew on though I might as well give it a try.
Eventually will take a picture to show what I'm doing as so far I only managed to take a quick video of what I was looking at.
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Gonna see if I can get the bumper off tommo and see if I can manage to paint that ugly looking cross member.
Topped the coolant up so that's happy now.
Managed to paint the lower part of crossmember it is welded in on each end by the looks of it.
Had to just go with doing it quick on the vehicle it look much more tidy now to me anyways.

The oil leek appears to be exactly where I was thinking its gearbox-engine seems to be a slight drip on the floor I have cleaned as much off as I could at the lower part of engine gear box to see if anything obvious shows up later on.

Was going to change the belts on driver side but after a struggle I thought they still look alright for now I would have swap them out but struggle to loosen the bolt off it did move ever so slightly but felt as though it were going to rounden off something I dont want to happen.

Forgot to take a photo but will be returning later to check the engine for any drip.
We have rain now I really needed it to stay dry for the paint but not much I can do now it might have been enough time unsure tho.
Seems to be drying okay must have just made it in time.
Warmed up so it drys quicker tho just to be safe.
Couldn't see anything yet on the engine after warming up so not sure yet with that. All I know is it should smell stronger if gearbox oil.
My limited knowledge on this still has me slightly confused as to what it might be.