Frank I need a manifold for t25 fit

that aint gonna work mate, the angles of the outer runners, and you wont be able to engineer any strength in the welds.
and a custom flange will cost mega-bucks eh :)
ok frank thought might work coz stani said they same on holes and gap ? Or u mean coz iron casting ?
 
the spacings will line up ok, but the outer runners are angled within 10mm of the flange, so you would have to cut and weld right where the bolts go, which means they will be butt welds (not strong enough for castings)
 
the spacings will line up ok, but the outer runners are angled within 10mm of the flange, so you would have to cut and weld right where the bolts go, which means they will be butt welds (not strong enough for castings)
ohh yeh I get wat u mean now. Any other idea of getting a top mount frank
 
ohh yeh I get wat u mean now. Any other idea of getting a top mount frank
the steampipe fittings and tubby flange are easy to get, and weld, but the head flange is the problem part tho mate.
your best bet, might be to find a rusted janspeed mani or mod/rework a flange from a different car
 
You could do the mani upside down with TIG I reckon, as you have much more flexibility with the weld pool and because you arn't always putting in filler you could get away with a very shallow taper on both parts to get the penetration. Making your own flange shouldn't be too hard, cut flange off a cast manifold, trace with a pen onto stainless and drill/die grinder to shape. just time consuming.
 
this is the problem tho, the angle of those outer runners (inwards and upwards) it just aint gonna work

P8130349.JPG
 
aye :) the only way to top-mount a stock mani would be to fit a U bend, not very pretty but would still flow better than a log mani.
and there,s no need for a top-mount T25, when a TD05 will fit into that gap so easily ;)

P8130351.JPG
 
I just read that a log manifold will be the limiting power factor long after things like pistons/rods so didn't think would matter on stock internals. S/C seems so much less hassle...
 
aye :) the only way to top-mount a stock mani would be to fit a U bend, not very pretty but would still flow better than a log mani.
and there,s no need for a top-mount T25, when a TD05 will fit into that gap so easily ;)

View attachment 24803
Yes I know what u mean frank, I have a idea of a startlet turbo top mounted one then cut the 4 ends off and make a manifold flange to fit k11 so it's cut and weld ? Will that work? Td05 is good frank my turbo kit is going so am gona do a t25 I think
 
That's a good idea but I think the bolts won't line up and will be lower then k11 flange
You have one set of bolt holes that line up with the head and drill another set of bolt holes to line up with the upside down manifold.
 
can't I weld on the upside down one on the flange and flange bolted as normal on k11 mani
Yeah you can I suppose, but you wouldn't be able to make a tubular manifokd with it later if you did but if you're not going to do that it might be the best way.
 
That's a good idea but I think the bolts won't line up and will be lower then k11 flange
that's the point of this adapter plate concept (tis like converting a 4 stud hub to a 5 stud with a spacer)
the mani is bolted or welded to the adapter plate while the other holes on the plate are aligned to the studs on the head.

You cant get to the lower bolts then tho paul :)
ah the lower fastening on the "adapter plate" cos the pipes from cyl1 & 4 sweeps across and obstructs access with a socket.
the stud nut can prob be reached with a spanner from below or alternatively:

fasten the plate to the block first then fasten the mani to the studs on the plate

I'll double check with my mani tonight
 
that's the point of this adapter plate concept (tis like converting a 4 stud hub to a 5 stud with a spacer)
the mani is bolted or welded to the adapter plate while the other holes on the plate are aligned to the studs on the head.


ah the lower fastening on the "adapter plate" cos the pipes from cyl1 & 4 sweeps across and obstructs access with a socket.
the stud nut can prob be reached with a spanner from below or alternatively:

fasten the plate to the block first then fasten the mani to the studs on the plate

I'll double check with my mani tonight
I don't like the idea of having a short bolt. After the flange is on the engine?
 
can't I weld on the upside down one on the flange and flange bolted as normal on k11 mani

as I just mentioned above, frank pointed out to me that welding the mani onto the adapter flange plate permanently makes access to the lower inner fasteners difficult (cos being obstructed by the mani)
so suggestion (and prob easier , no welding) is to bolt the plate to the block first then the mani to the plate
 
as I just mentioned above, frank pointed out to me that welding the mani onto the adapter flange plate permanently makes access to the lower inner fasteners difficult (cos being obstructed by the mani)
so suggestion (and prob easier , no welding) is to bolt the plate to the block first then the mani to the plate
Yes I will get plate made so I can weld it on my Manifold and bolt the plate on engine
 
I don't like the idea of having a short bolt. After the flange is on the engine?

urm no, the head stud is only used to secure the adapter plate.
the adapter plate will have a seperate relocated studs that the upside down mani fastens onto.

I'm gonna have to draw another diagram aren't I?
 
urm no, the head stud is only used to secure the adapter plate.
the adapter plate will have a seperate relocated studs that the upside down mani fastens onto.

I'm gonna have to draw another diagram aren't I?
I get it now the plate is my manifold and k11 manifold welds on my plate ?
 
I get it now the plate is my manifold and k11 manifold welds on my plate ?

no, there's no permanent welding required (due to nut access underneath).

step1. fasten adapter plate onto engine heads stud with gasket
step2. fasten manifold upside down onto the adapter plates stud with another gasket
done
 
Just sell pictures for £100 instead :p

should as well cos this had taken me few hours out of my busy day to measure, check, assess, design and illustrate a simple idea to someone o_O

k, assessment.
here's the mani

6tbh.jpg
ltl2.jpg


the gasket illustrates where the engine studs are with the manifold upside down

mfhx.jpg


the lower studs here will be impossible to get a socket to cos of the pipe.
using a spanner here, I align the closed end to the stud hole

y8ke.jpg


it clears the manifold laterally

exa4.jpg


but cos the pipe is so close, you won't be able to fit it over the nut

jia0.jpg


can prob use an open end spanner but only few degrees at a time

b0br.jpg
tnow.jpg


nut will sit like this far

gg71.jpg


for the upper nut, the nut and spanner will foul abit of the corner so this will have to be grinded down

vm6j.jpg
hht7.jpg
7kcc.jpg


so option A, welding the stock manifold upside down onto the adapter plate permanently and then fastening this assembly onto the engine head will not work cos you won't be able to get the spanner to the nut easily.

the better option B, is to fasten the adapter plate to the block first
and then fasten the mani to that plate via relocated studs on the plate that matches the upside down mani

eapr.jpg


new studs for upside down mani added to the plate

83ut.jpg


cutaway arrangement

2uf8.jpg
 
should as well cos this had taken me few hours out of my busy day to measure, check, assess, design and illustrate a simple idea to someone o_O

k, assessment.
here's the mani

6tbh.jpg
ltl2.jpg


the gasket illustrates where the engine studs are with the manifold upside down

mfhx.jpg


the lower studs here will be impossible to get a socket to cos of the pipe.
using a spanner here, I align the closed end to the stud hole

y8ke.jpg


it clears the manifold laterally

exa4.jpg


but cos the pipe is so close, you won't be able to fit it over the nut

jia0.jpg


can prob use an open end spanner but only few degrees at a time

b0br.jpg
tnow.jpg


nut will sit like this far

gg71.jpg


for the upper nut, the nut and spanner will foul abit of the corner so this will have to be grinded down

vm6j.jpg
hht7.jpg
7kcc.jpg


so option A, welding the stock manifold upside down onto the adapter plate permanently and then fastening this assembly onto the engine head will not work cos you won't be able to get the spanner to the nut easily.

the better option B, is to fasten the adapter plate to the block first
and then fasten the mani to that plate via relocated studs on the plate that matches the upside down mani

eapr.jpg


new studs for upside down mani added to the plate

83ut.jpg


cutaway arrangement

2uf8.jpg
polly I like ur detail work u put in for me and others to look at, it's what am gona do, I need to get a plate made then gona start thanks polly
 
should as well cos this had taken me few hours out of my busy day to measure, check, assess, design and illustrate a simple idea to someone o_O
That wants charging for that does. That's a couple of hundred quids worth of R & D and designing planning that o_O
 
polly I like ur detail work u put in for me and others to look at, it's what am gona do, I need to get a plate made then gona start thanks polly
Then sell up and start a ct9?
You'll end having more turbos hanging off the front than Frank soon
 
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