Fitting bias valve

Hi
I know there have been many discussions on braking and bias valves, but has anyone got a basic diagrams of the layout to fit a bias valve to the Micra k11. I know the self adjusting valve will need to be removed and I have twin brake lines internally going to the rear, I presume this needs to be reduced to one, somehow. Any diagrams of what needs removing/adding or photo's would help.

Regards

Peter
 
the stock brakes are linked diagonally i believe peter, so best to link the 2 fronts and 2 rears, then bias between them eh
 
Brilliant,, looks very detailed will sit down later and go through it all. Thanks it is so good providing this knowledge for others, invaluable.
 
Hi I know it has been a while since I first asked about the subject of Bias/Proportioning valves but moved onto other projects. Can I just ask and sorry if I sound dumb but when fitting the proportioning valve can I connect the two rear lines to a t piece reducing down to one line to the valve before splitting back again with a T piece? Is this the quickest and easiest way to do it? since I don't want to change the servo.

Any Pictures would be helpful
Thanks
 
Hi I know it has been a while since I first asked about the subject of Bias/Proportioning valves but moved onto other projects. Can I just ask and sorry if I sound dumb but when fitting the proportioning valve can I connect the two rear lines to a t piece reducing down to one line to the valve before splitting back again with a T piece? Is this the quickest and easiest way to do it? since I don't want to change the servo.

Any Pictures would be helpful
Thanks

thats exactly what i've run for 3 years now Sharman :)
 
As its a diagonal split system I presume you know that by joining the brake lines you bypassing the split system ie if something happens to any of your brake lines you will lose all brakes except the handbrake (unless that's hydraulic too)

Wilwood has brake proportioning valves that appear to keep the lines isolated and therefore maintain the same level of fail safe. (i haven't read it all so I'll leave it to you)
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-11179

Not saying not to do it that way, just you should be aware that's what's going on...
 
Thanks for this information. I already have the standard valve so with this new info it looks like I might have to leave it unless there is a quick fix. I was hoping to do it this weekend before rally next week.
 
Hi again Frank. Just looked back when you replied to my post months ago where you said linking the front two and the back two. Are you thinking that I can swap the ports?
 
4 ports Frank
yes mate, you have the option of running the 2 fronts from the 1 pair of ports, and using the other pair of ports for the rear (blocking 1 off if you want)
you wont retain the (safer) diagonal split, but will still have a split brake system
 
This brings up an interesting question from me. I have a pre-facelift k11 autotest car I bought from a club member. Although he ran it on the road only to and from events 1/2 mile each way), he only ran front brakes with rear from a hydraulic handbrake with remote reservoir (and very dodgy rear brake lines loose from either side of seat area to drums, no flexi ). I'm restoring rear pedal braking through the hydraulic handbrake, single line. Both rears are blocked off, so can I get away with just using 1 port, or, like Sherman, combine both ports with a T. Also, if I only use one port, is there a preference?
 
the ports were originally plumbed in diagonally (for safety reasons) running 1 pipe to the rear will mean having to run a front/rear split (or no split at all)
 
Won't the front brake that is off the port with the rear port blanked off get more pressure than the one running both rear brakes, therefore creating a front brake imbalance?
 
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