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FHK11 March Cab

This is a picture of my old mechanical speedo drive from the old 1.0 box
Car is back on road. Only problem now is I have acceleration issues it hesitates quite aggressive on fast acceleration. Sometimes it doesn't let me rev past 3000 rev when it gets warmed up. I am going to change throttle body one more time, I may have got another bad one, as it was re-sealed suggesting someone may have repaired it previous.
Changed the throttle body again, it is responding much better.

Running on really low boost for now, it hasn't been driven for a while so taking it easy :)
I have a few issues at the moment in the lower revs I have the following two issues:-

1. At standstill when I press the accelerator the revs drop a touch then pick up

2. While driving at the lower revs the car seems to hesitate so I get a bouncing motion as I drive. When I drive in the higher revs the boost kicks in and I can't feel it, But I feel something is still there holding the car back.

I have disconnected the AEM Fic with similar issues.

Any ideas?
You have given me a few good ideas, I might have left a vacuum hose off from the Throttle body. I will also check the wires on the connectors. Thanks
I checked vacuum lines and plugs. They seem ok.
Strange problem, it seems to happen when the car is warm and When driving in low revs it is bouncing forwards instead of driving forwards smoothly. When I floor it it goes away and it seems to be holding back.
Any ideas ?
The judderng is getting worse. I nearly sold everything this week. Just had enough of the juddering problem. It must be something simple, just can't figure it.


Site Supporter
known good known fault is the switch behind your key barrel,could try another distributor? if its a unknown known :)
I'm not a fitter, but that smacks of a fuelling problem to me, had similar on a few cars I've owned through the years .... blocked filter ?


Glorified Electrician
Could be pressure too high causing overfueling. That fuel pump is probs ott for that setup but shouldn't affect it. Do you have a stock pressure reg to try?


Club Member
+1 ^ the ecu uses the feedback from the lambda in order to run closed loop, but there is a limit to how much the short and long term fuel trims can cope with.
that 300hp fuelpump is probably overpowering the system ?
I opened up the dizzy today completely different to the one I took off a Micra. Anyway I put some insualation tape on some of the plastic casing over the wiring connections as they were cracked(they are not rubber cased like the micra dizzy).

I put the old one back in the car. It ran for a while even drove a few blocks. Restarted all ran ok. It seems like a dizzy problem to me, getting the same one for my car is not easy (it is a 7 wire connector). I have decided to put a micra one on and put the extra connectors onto my loom.

I hope it will work what do you think Frank, Enuo, Paul etc..

Does anybody have the two connectors that connect to the dizzy?. I want to connect them to existing loom so I can plug in Two connector Dizzy
What do you reckon ? If I swap wires from my one connector plug to new 2 Connectro plug and just plug in the 2 Connector dizzy will it work ?
The first cut makes you nervous, then its downhill all the way.
I will probably be the first to try this. If it works I will share it with you all. If it don't there will be a wanted ad for part :0


I Love Booooooost!
Club Member
Sounds like fueling issue to me. Flooding engine causes the drop in revs then boosts. Then not enough fuel when boost proper kicked in
If drums are so bad how come articulated lorries still use them? admittedly its an air brake system but still ?

Drums are much better for being stopped like parking but worse for when moving as I understand it.

So rear disks would be better for track use where their benifits are useful for cornering and stuff whearas parking on a steep hill you want drums.

Might be wrong but im sure someone will confirm :D