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FHK11 March Cab

Hi to all who know me in the club.
After much thought and consideration, as way to help others as I have been helped here. (There are some genuine and helpful persons in this club)

Please don't think all this work was done by me, in all honesty I could not have done it on my own. With God's help and advise from members from here (Frank, Nex, Baguete, Noddie and the rest) and other forums, some big tasks have been achieved.

Why I never posted before was simply modesty, but I realised I wasn't helping others on here who want to do similar mods to what I have already done or about to do.

I will list all the various mods, and if you need help advise I will help best I can or point you in the right direction. I have just jotted everything down quickly, I don’t know when I will get time to update, but feel free to message me. I will try to get back to you asap. Pics etc will be copied over in due time I just want to get things down, so it can look up when reading/searching for people who need help etc

Nissan March from Japan.

Contents
Remote Starter
Electric roof Switch (same as a sunroof switch)
Boot popper solenoid
Rear reverse light to fog light conversion
Heated Seats
Rear boot light
Fog lights
Automatic night lights
Auto box to manual conversion (Completed by me started by someone else)
Rear Brake disc conversion
Turbo conversion

1.0Gearbox to 1.3 Conversion





Remote Starter

For this type of vehicle, please look at the older alarms by Clifford G4/G5 versions Concept 300, Concept 600 with remote starter. If you need help with the cabling I can try and dig up diagrams etc.




Electric Roof Switch

I had to make an electronic relay (same as a sunroof relay). I have a picture of it somewhere and will upload pictures as soon as I can.





Heated Seats (Well worth it and takes a less than a day)

You can purchase a valeo heated seat kit from Ebay for about £60. It is pretty straight forward to install for someone who is willing to put in the effort and basic electronics knowledge (live Earth etc). You have to remove the seats undo all the metal clips and lift/remove the cloth. Stick on the heated patches to the seat and back support cable tie or bend back the metal clips refit the seats. Connect up the wiring. I used a relay to control the seats to only work when the car is started





Automatic night lights

Not an easy install and requires a bit more knowledge of electronics etc, as you can get the easily connect to the wrong wires and cause problems.

Boot popper (Well worth, takes a few hours)

You need basic electronics knowledge, the basic kit is about £20-£30. You can fit it with a button on the dash etc or connect it to your alarm. I added mine to the alarm, so when I press the boot release on the fob it opens the boot. (Connect it to the aux(boot release wire on alarm).

Rear reverse light to fog light conversion (for imports)
If you don't want a big external rear fog light. You can connect up your rear fog light to one of the reverse lights if you have Two. Fairly straight forward install, just remember to isolate/cut the wire from the other reverse light and add a red bulb. To simplify thing just purchase a rear fog light kit and don't use the light instead connect it to reverse light. Remember to change to bulb colour to Red.


Rear boot light (See Nex's blog, he has done it very well)

Simply get a light from salvage or dealer and connect it up to the boot with a boot switch, you can get the power from a constant live (may be able to tap the internal light inside the car)



Rear brake disc conversion (I am not sure if it is worth it or not, not fully tested as vehicle has been off road)

This is much easier on a ramp. I did manage to do it on the floor with axle stands ( I do have industrial ones, which can hold up a truck). Make sure you get the hand brake cables etc, as they are different, you will need to make some brackets etc. You can quite easily do this by bending over soft metal. Otherwise pretty much a bolt on fit. ABS non ABS I think it doesn't matter they should all fit the same I do have ABS. I think they will fit the other way I have done similar conversions on other vehicles. It is much easier than you would expect. You have to be careful and work safely, it can be done in a day or so, you just have to play around with feeding the hand brake cables etc.



Turbo conversion

If you get noddie (ask him nicely) to make you a custom manifold with hks or any other flange. You just have to source Turbo and wastegate, oil lines, intercooler, piping and ECU. I used a custom ECU (AEM) in the end as it seemed the easier option for me, as I was getting help with tuning etc. I used custom one and kept the wiring diagrams somewhere. I had to get a lot of things made custom for the project, just because of availability of parts etc. You have to size the turbo correctly for your needs. Can discuss this in detail. I also upgraded clutch and put a lightened flywheel on this should also help increase performance.

This is an early picture of me test fitting turbo and manifold
DSC00603.JPG


The oil line is custom made. I used a braided hose, you can't tell from the picture it is braded and it has a rating for pressure in bar, and temperature. I do have air con so I have gone for a top mount(don't comment why I didn't get rid of air con, I like my gadgets)

Here is a picture of the oil out going into the sump.
DSC00605.JPG


I used an ordinary oil pipe for the return, there should not be much pressure on the return, but it will need to be heat resistant.

This is my first attempt at putting it together to see what happens. Plus I was still using the car at the time and needed it driveable.
DSC00620.JPG

It was after this early attempt to put things together and see what happens I discovered, it was making serious boost, but car would not move. It wasn't until I got a friend of mine to sit with me he pointed out the clutch was slipping. I began to look at ways of resolving this issue.


Thanks to Frank and Baguete I decided to use the GA16 clutch and flywheel on the 1.3 Gearbox, only problem was I discovered the gearbox in my car was not a 1.3, it was a 1.0. They are so interchangeable I discovered even the scrapyard guys give 1.0 boxes when you ask for a 1.3, they know it will mate up and work. You have to be specific and request the 1.3 to get the 1.3, one way to tell it is bigger and it has three/four stripes on the top of it. I will try to get a picture up later.

To get my car on the road I need a manual Speedo drive that is on the gearbox, unless I find another way to measure speed and distance.






1.0 Gearbox (pre 98) to 1.3 Conversion (With 1.6 Flywheel and Clutch)

I had a hard time finding the 1.3L Gearbox, for the conversion you need the drive shafts, Clutch, pressure plate, Flywheel and the gear levers from the 1.3 gearbox, as they are a different size. You can just cut and weld the two gearbox levers to fit. You may need to change the speedo cable from electronic to manual. My gearbox support brackets were different size on mine so I sourced the 1.3 ones.
 
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Wiring is straight forward. The only difficulty is location of the solenoid so it pulls the boot release. If you car has a boot release you attach the boot popper cable to it as close to the boot as you can. So it just pulls the cable for you. If you don't have one I guess you will attach it to the lever you pull to open the boot.
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
i was thinking to haggle it on the rod on my boot key hole part,so it doesnt touch the boot poper cable. wait till i do it and see i spose
 
Cannot do anything without Gods help. Always thank him first. as he has given life.
It has taken me a few years just to sort this blog out. I will try and sort some pictures out, It may take a while. I just had to get it written down, so I can try and help people who may want to do similar things etc.
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
"With God's help" Interesting :p

Nice work so far, less words, more pictures! :D

you laughing at the creator of all the worlds and everything in it . not wise mate or dont you know ?

I should get a chance in the next couple of weeks, I will take some updated pictures of some of the things done etc.

take your time ,,,,,seen a green one near me ,get some pics soon
 
I am trying to get it back on Road, so I Just need to finish off a few things mainly the Turbo install side (Sensors, wastegate, wiring etc), and start some new ones:). I will update the blog when I can. In the meantime I don't mind advising where I can.
 
i was thinking to haggle it on the rod on my boot key hole part,so it doesnt touch the boot poper cable. wait till i do it and see i spose

Not sure if it will work, as the lock mechanism may prevent it from moving freely. It may need playing around with it, you are right the best thing to do is try it and see. Once you have everything open you may find other ways of getting it done.
 
so this rear brake conversion.....

i plan on doing a conversion (coz drums are sh**). i'll be getting strongflex polybushes for the trailing links when i get round to it.

how difficult is it to remove the arms from the body? the look pretty rusty on mine.....
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
so this rear brake conversion.....

i plan on doing a conversion (coz drums are sh**). i'll be getting strongflex polybushes for the trailing links when i get round to it.

how difficult is it to remove the arms from the body? the look pretty rusty on mine.....
Why does everyone think drums are rubbish? If your rear drums are rubbish maybe they need a service. Norton were still running front drums on their competition bikes long after discs became popular on cars, which has got to tell you something.
 
Why does everyone think drums are rubbish? If your rear drums are rubbish maybe they need a service. Norton were still running front drums on their competition bikes long after discs became popular on cars, which has got to tell you something.

They had 6 / 8 leading shows fitted though!
 
Used to race a Norton around town on my 750 Suzuki, stuffed me in the corners, nailed it on the straights.
Great looking bikes that sounded even better, used to go to hill climbs as a pillion ... would frighten the proverbial out of me now !!!!!:eek:
 
so this rear brake conversion.....

i plan on doing a conversion (coz drums are sh**). i'll be getting strongflex polybushes for the trailing links when i get round to it.

how difficult is it to remove the arms from the body? the look pretty rusty on mine.....

Spray them with Duck oil Or penetrating oil, and try to use a impact gun. I had an electric impact gun to get the nuts off. They came off straight away.
 
BTW I swapped the whole axle over, It was a lot more easier to change it than I thought it would be. I did it using axle stands and a few jacks. Make sure you get the both hand brake cables with the piece that they sit in by the hand brake itself. The cables and that piece are different. If you can't get hold of it, you can re-drill the old one and widen the opening slightly. You can't get round the cable and will be required.
 
Why does everyone think drums are rubbish? If your rear drums are rubbish maybe they need a service. Norton were still running front drums on their competition bikes long after discs became popular on cars, which has got to tell you something.

I personally have not noticed that much difference, my car was off road shortly after the conversion. I will edit post to let people know if it makes a big difference, once I test it out properly. Discs can be checked quickly i.e warn, warped, if they are not bitting etc and are easier for me to change:) . I just can't figure out those fiddly drums o_O
 
Why does everyone think drums are rubbish? If your rear drums are rubbish maybe they need a service. Norton were still running front drums on their competition bikes long after discs became popular on cars, which has got to tell you something.


i'd like to point out that by the time cars were onto discs, Norton were pretty much defunct. the japanese market had got its claws in and Norton (and the whole british motorcycle industry) were thinking way back in the past. the jap bikes had punchy AND revvy 4-pot engines, while we stuck with singles and twins.

At one point, triumph had designs for 3 different bikes, a 125 single, a 250 twin and a 500 inline four. they were deemed un-necessary by management, as the current range of twins were "sufficient".

And don't try to come back with Norton breaking the 100mph speed record at the iom TT because that weren't their engine, and only partly their frame, and someone elses suspension.....

think what you will about drums/discs. i replaced my drum cylinders a month ago or so, but i want the disc set-up. simple as that.
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
i'd like to point out that by the time cars were onto discs, Norton were pretty much defunct. the japanese market had got its claws in and Norton (and the whole british motorcycle industry) were thinking way back in the past. the jap bikes had punchy AND revvy 4-pot engines, while we stuck with singles and twins.

At one point, triumph had designs for 3 different bikes, a 125 single, a 250 twin and a 500 inline four. they were deemed un-necessary by management, as the current range of twins were "sufficient".

And don't try to come back with Norton breaking the 100mph speed record at the iom TT because that weren't their engine, and only partly their frame, and someone elses suspension.....

think what you will about drums/discs. i replaced my drum cylinders a month ago or so, but i want the disc set-up. simple as that.
You can want it that's fine, I just don't believe that more than a handful of micras on this forum have go and tyres to get any benefit from discs other than ease of maintenance or street cred. On the maintenance point, re-greasing the pivots whenever I have the wheels off sounds like a lot less faff to me than trying to pull a rusty axle off another car, pull my rusty axle off, clean the rusty axle up, rebuild the brake calipers and wrestling it on to my car...
I had a stage 2 tuned spitfire that had disc fronts and drum rears, and properly adjusted I could still easily lock up all four wheels, and that was on modern sticky radials, bearing in mind the brakes and chassis was originally designed to run cross ply's under a herald... I never felt lacking in the brakes department.
 
coz drums are sh**
They're not :) they're awesome for handbrake turns and the handbrake in general :) normal driving braking which you experience means you'll never feel the drums. They only do 20-40% braking effort. As will a rear disc conversion.
However if he wishes to change to discs then its his car :)

Why does everyone think drums are rubbish?
Coz they dont use the handbrake much :p and don't understand front brake bias :)
 
I personally have not noticed that much difference
You wont notice much difference unless you push the car harder and use the brakes more but to counter that you'll still have the standard front bias :)
Discs can be checked quickly i.e warn, warped, if they are not bitting etc and are easier for me to change:) . I just can't figure out those fiddly drums o_O
Complete and utter fair play on that one :) and they look better too
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
Cost of shoes and cylinders v cost of almost non existent parts. I know which I prefer
yeah but how many years worth of those parts can you get for the cost of the axle... in my opinion, it only makes sense cost wise as a long term investment, and you plan on keeping the car for a fair few years.
Ultimately there are pros and cons to both systems, and your choice is your choice, but if you have all the facts you can make a more informed decision, and perpetuating the myth that drums are essentially pointless isn't helping people make well informed decisions. Just here to share some of my knowlege and personal experience :)
 
tomwest
think what you will about drums/discs. i replaced my drum cylinders a month ago or so, but i want the disc set-up. simple as that.

I would agree, at the end of the day if you want discs, go for it.

I would not want to go back to drums I intend to keep the car, so I think it is a worthwhile upgrade, they are more pleasing on the eye. If you go for it, it is pretty straight forward, tell you the truth I think the brake cables took a lot of time feeding them correctly, I had to adjust the brake cable bracket as I didn't get the bracket with my cables. If you need tips, we are here to help.
 
Once I get my car on the road, I should have more pictures then. It is currently in the Garage for repairs.
To get my car on the road I need a manual Speedo drive that is on the gearbox, tyres (Which I have) and I have to fix driveshaft ring for ABS. Then of course tidy it all up, and sort the electrics out to make sure it is all working.
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Rear discs = bling. They were only there to allow ABS to work at the time, not for performance.

That said, if someone want's to bling things up, what's wrong with that? :D
 
to be honest i think its fairly irrelevant what style brakes you have on the back. i want to experience changing an axle and swopping from drum to disc seems to be reason enough in my head! will also be putting it on full poly-bushes (so would have to remove every nut and bolt anyway). i will be taking the little beast on track at some point.
 
to be honest i think its fairly irrelevant what style brakes you have on the back. i want to experience changing an axle and swopping from drum to disc seems to be reason enough in my head! will also be putting it on full poly-bushes (so would have to remove every nut and bolt anyway). i will be taking the little beast on track at some point.

Go the whole hog and rose joint them :)
 
haha if i could afford to replace the rose joints every 100 miles then i would! not a bad idea for ARB droplinks though...... nice and stiff!
 
AEM F/ic Install
AEM F/ic Install Wiring Diagrams (You will need a bit more than basic electronics knowledge, you have to understand how an ecu controls vehicle and sensors etc). The good thing about the AEM F/IC is you have a loop back cable, which allows you to go back to a standard ecu anytime. Solder all your Wires, I have found the wiring to be cheap on some after market ecu's, the AEM has very poor connectors on the Plugs, make sure you check for loose connections on the connectors and make them strong by re pining or Glue gunning them in place.

Please do not hold me responsible for any damage to your vehicle. I have given this information as it is what worked for me. Please do your own research and do not blindly follow, as wires ecu's etc do be different, you will have two choices research or educated guess.

I have a 1.3 Auto ECU (mostly wires will be the same, you will just need to get wiring diagram to check you are connecting to the right wires)
Diagrams to follow.


These diagrams are my working copies, please excuse my scribbles.

I named the Plugs on the AEM F/ic A and B.


This is Plug A wiring


AEM Fic A plug.JPG


This is Plug B wiring

AEM Fic B plug.JPG


This is Micra ECU Pinouts the AEM Fic wires connect to.

AEM Fic Micra ecu pin outs.JPG


This is a picture of Emanage credit to EVADE Cisco's Micra Files, I have edited as I was initially used it to get correct wiring

Greddy Emanage by  EVADE edited.JPG


This is a picture of an ecu diagram I have, it is useful for ecu wiring

Micra ecu pin outs.JPG
 
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