Early Electronic Distributor connecting to Points based engine


Ex. Club Member
I've been sent an early Electronic Distributor to replace my defunt points based one.

I've read through some posts have said that these distributors will direct fit, one question mine has one wire and earth socket the electronic one has two wires plus earth socket, Haynes manual shows, or appears to show, one wire left off is this correct? Do I simply connect both of these wires to the same coil point? or not

I'm sure some one out there will put me in the light

Sammo sent the handshake Distributor arrived thanks

No one? someone must have replaced the points based distributor with an electronic style one


Moderator & JAE Chef
Club Member
1wire on minus 1 on plus will check tomorrow for u if u want what colours, had same problem when i put arnolds engine in.


Ex. Club Member
That's great thanks. I'm guessing the black and red wire I have on the existing Earth terminal goes on the new earth terminal. Just got to get a broken dissy cap stud out now

I have the Haynes and will check too just too.


Mine already had electric ignition though!? and being a GSX, you should have had the same type coil is mine!
Hia Hizzy

I sent you a PM on my thouhts on the wiring conversion...here it is again for open comment and incase you havent got your mail yet..

Hia Mate,

I’m afraid I’ve been bed-ridden for a couple of days. After returning home from posting the dizzy, I came down with a bout of man-flu!! My legs are working now so I can get to PC…sweating my tits off still though (sympathy, violins)

After packing the distributor, I noticed a couple of things that I wanted to point out (that I had forgotten about when I said you could try mine)

One of the distributor cap fixing screws from an old cap has been snapped off in the distributor housing L (I used a ty-rap around the back of the stubby bit and the full cap screw to keep the seal closed) <ty-raps enclosed>
The distributor cap on that distributor is fairly worn and may need either replacing or cleaning up (fine sand paper on the flats of the HT outer contacts)

I thought as an alternative you could fit the vacuum advance and / or electronics to your distributor housing?.....but now I realise that your distributor is the points type…so the internals will most certainly be different! L…..may be the vacuum is swappable (two screws outside and a cir-clip inside).

Having said all that: If you simple want to try the ty-rap method (swap the whole dizzy) then you need one more ingredient…

-> A Condenser (capacitor)

This condenser will replace your ballast resistor (one wire that used to go to the resistor will become unused)

One wire from condenser will go to coil + and the other condenser connection will go to earth

THEN: (In answer to your question in your original mail)

The earth of the electronic distributor should still go to earth

Your coil should have two different sized terminals on it to prevent reverse polarity connections

The two wires from the electronic dizzy go to the coil terminals (one to – and one to + taking note of the ring terminal sizes against the coil terminals)

IF your coil terminals are exactly the same size, let me know and I’ll check the wiring on my motor

Hope this is of some use and not getting too complicated

If you’re struggling for a condenser give me a shout and I’ll pop one in a jiffy bag.



Club Member

i believe the ballast resistor drops the voltage to 9v for the 9v coil, so that on startup the coil gets a 12v boost to help the spark when the starter is engaged
then when you let go the key, the voltage returns to 9v via the ballast resistor and the coil does,nt overheat
Didnt know that (about the ballast resistor)...one thing's for sure though...the electronic type doesnt use the resistor

Heres the schematics too:

Ive hilighted a 'capacitor' on the points system..

Does anyone know:..is this the same part as the 'condenser' on the electronic circuit?

points type is the first immage


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Club Member

if his car has a ballast resistor, i think it will have a 9v coil which will probably get a bit hot, but still run ok !
they are a good idea really because when that starter kicks in, the battery voltage drops a fair bit (dash lights dim etc)
so the poins system has a different coil too?

holey moley.....

scrub the jiffy bag idea///lets make it a box that will fit a whole coil (I have a working spare from electronic ignition) in and condenser??

let me know..(same terms)


Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
I ran a K10 for YEARS with ONLY changing the distributor to the electronic one. I made NO other changes at all.


Ex. Club Member
Behind my coil I have a condensor is this the same as I need for the electronic dissy?

I'm going to try with the existing coil as it's brand new or only been on the car for two weeks. I know the coil is the ballast resistor type as it says so the casing. This condensor you're all on about is the same as the one which came with the points system or is the resitance different? It seems a shame to dump that.

Has anyone attempted to build an induction unit for the K10's carb, getting rid of the horrid black airbox ? I'm considering a small square box running to a length of pipe then the induction filter.

Ok Folks Ive used my 100 posts up so going to have to switch to Email, or keep posting but I cannot reply till I join


Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
Join then!! :p Think of all the helpfull advice you have had so far!


Ex. Club Member
I did that a year back, just renewed- you will not regret it :) join in the fun :)